How do I do this? Please help!

Note I've had to delete the photos you are showing; we do not allow embedding of photos that one does not own the copyright/distribution rights to on the forum. We do allow linking to them off-site (however I tried to make two of your links into hyperlinks but they defaulted to download instead so not quite sure why it did that but had to take them out too).

You can edit your post without any worries and put in links to work you want to emulate and we can go from there.

Also an idea of what kind of camera and other equipment you have; or if you're looking to buy how much you are thinking of spending would be a big help. there are many ways to take photos depending on what one has - some are also expensive and some are cheaper.
 
Welcome to the forums.

The shots you have linked to are underexposed in my opinion, and a better approach to photographing automobiles is to use "fill flash" which lightens the shadow areas.

If you end up taking some photos that show more light was needed, you can often lighten the shadow areas with editing software, but only marginally. It's better to use light properly in the first place.
 
Note I've had to delete the photos you are showing; we do not allow embedding of photos that one does not own the copyright/distribution rights to on the forum. We do allow linking to them off-site (however I tried to make two of your links into hyperlinks but they defaulted to download instead so not quite sure why it did that but had to take them out too).

You can edit your post without any worries and put in links to work you want to emulate and we can go from there.

Also an idea of what kind of camera and other equipment you have; or if you're looking to buy how much you are thinking of spending would be a big help. there are many ways to take photos depending on what one has - some are also expensive and some are cheaper.
Hey man thanks, I really appreciate it.

Well I just got the canon sl1 with the kit lens. I have been wanting to get the 50mm f1.8 or f1.4, but I'm leaning more towards the f1.4. I am currently using gimp as editing software but I have access to Photoshop at school.
 
Welcome to the forums.

The shots you have linked to are underexposed in my opinion, and a better approach to photographing automobiles is to use "fill flash" which lightens the shadow areas.

If you end up taking some photos that show more light was needed, you can often lighten the shadow areas with editing software, but only marginally. It's better to use light properly in the first place.
Thanks man. I would have assumed that using flash outdoors would be a challenge. So darkening the shadows on post would get me near these images?
 
If dark shadows is what you want, then don't use flash.
 
If dark shadows is what you want, then don't use flash.
Oh now I'm sorry. I meant to say, I understand what you mean by how he lightens the shadow areas.
But is I am a distance from the car, will the flash still work?
 
Welcome to the forums.

The shots you have linked to are underexposed in my opinion, and a better approach to photographing automobiles is to use "fill flash" which lightens the shadow areas.

If you end up taking some photos that show more light was needed, you can often lighten the shadow areas with editing software, but only marginally. It's better to use light properly in the first place.
Thanks man. I would have assumed that using flash outdoors would be a challenge. So darkening the shadows on post would get me near these images?

To get these images you do the opposite of darkening the shadows. These photos have no black in them. Here's the histogram for the photo of the Suburu.

car_hist.jpg


Removing all black from the photo was deliberate. It's a very heavily used technique right now and so appropriately classified as a fad. Most commonly it's used in fashion work.

Designer is correct to use the term underexposure. This is the signature look of a botched exposure although in this case it's a deliberate "fashionable" simulation of a botched exposure meant to be stylistic. Drawing the analogy to fashion and so clothing you could think of it as analogous to this: high fashion

How to do it? Get a normal photo and open a Curves adjustment. Head for the black corner, grab the node in the corner and just push it up.

Joe
 
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But is I am a distance from the car, will the flash still work?
Yes. Even though the light intensity drops off rapidly as you increase the distance, a good quality flash unit will (at moderate distance) provide enough light to lighten the shadows.

Flash is rated in guide number (GN) which indicates how much light they can produce at full power. The GN is expressed in either meters or feet. You will need to learn more about how that is used.

Most car photography is done from a distance of between 10 and 30 feet, so you can calculate how the flash will affect the photograph.
 
But is I am a distance from the car, will the flash still work?
Yes. Even though the light intensity drops off rapidly as you increase the distance, a good quality flash unit will (at moderate distance) provide enough light to lighten the shadows.

Flash is rated in guide number (GN) which indicates how much light they can produce at full power. The GN is expressed in either meters or feet. You will need to learn more about how that is used.

Most car photography is done from a distance of between 10 and 30 feet, so you can calculate how the flash will affect the photograph.
Thanks guys, but this brings me to my next question as how does this guy get a dark grayish tone? Without losing the red color. Instagram
Welcome to the forums.

The shots you have linked to are underexposed in my opinion, and a better approach to photographing automobiles is to use "fill flash" which lightens the shadow areas.

If you end up taking some photos that show more light was needed, you can often lighten the shadow areas with editing software, but only marginally. It's better to use light properly in the first place.
Thanks man. I would have assumed that using flash outdoors would be a challenge. So darkening the shadows on post would get me near these images?

To get these images you do the opposite of darkening the shadows. These photos have no black in them. Here's the histogram for the photo of the Suburu.

View attachment 99819

Removing all black from the photo was deliberate. It's a very heavily used technique right now and so appropriately classified as a fad. Most commonly it's used in fashion work.

Designer is correct to use the term underexposure. This is the signature look of a botched exposure although in this case it's a deliberate "fashionable" simulation of a botched exposure meant to be stylistic. Drawing the analogy to fashion and so clothing you could think of it as analogous to this: high fashion

How to do it? Get a normal photo and open a Curves adjustment. Head for the black corner, grab the node in the corner and just push it up.

Joe
 
But is I am a distance from the car, will the flash still work?
Yes. Even though the light intensity drops off rapidly as you increase the distance, a good quality flash unit will (at moderate distance) provide enough light to lighten the shadows.

Flash is rated in guide number (GN) which indicates how much light they can produce at full power. The GN is expressed in either meters or feet. You will need to learn more about how that is used.

Most car photography is done from a distance of between 10 and 30 feet, so you can calculate how the flash will affect the photograph.
Thanks guys, but this brings me to my next question as how does this guy get a dark grayish tone? Without losing the red color. Instagram
Welcome to the forums.

The shots you have linked to are underexposed in my opinion, and a better approach to photographing automobiles is to use "fill flash" which lightens the shadow areas.

If you end up taking some photos that show more light was needed, you can often lighten the shadow areas with editing software, but only marginally. It's better to use light properly in the first place.
Thanks man. I would have assumed that using flash outdoors would be a challenge. So darkening the shadows on post would get me near these images?

To get these images you do the opposite of darkening the shadows. These photos have no black in them. Here's the histogram for the photo of the Suburu.

View attachment 99819

Removing all black from the photo was deliberate. It's a very heavily used technique right now and so appropriately classified as a fad. Most commonly it's used in fashion work.

Designer is correct to use the term underexposure. This is the signature look of a botched exposure although in this case it's a deliberate "fashionable" simulation of a botched exposure meant to be stylistic. Drawing the analogy to fashion and so clothing you could think of it as analogous to this: high fashion

How to do it? Get a normal photo and open a Curves adjustment. Head for the black corner, grab the node in the corner and just push it up.

Joe

HSL - (H)ue (S)aturation (L)uminance

Joe
 
But is I am a distance from the car, will the flash still work?
Yes. Even though the light intensity drops off rapidly as you increase the distance, a good quality flash unit will (at moderate distance) provide enough light to lighten the shadows.

Flash is rated in guide number (GN) which indicates how much light they can produce at full power. The GN is expressed in either meters or feet. You will need to learn more about how that is used.

Most car photography is done from a distance of between 10 and 30 feet, so you can calculate how the flash will affect the photograph.
Thanks guys, but this brings me to my next question as how does this guy get a dark grayish tone? Without losing the red color. Instagram
Welcome to the forums.

The shots you have linked to are underexposed in my opinion, and a better approach to photographing automobiles is to use "fill flash" which lightens the shadow areas.

If you end up taking some photos that show more light was needed, you can often lighten the shadow areas with editing software, but only marginally. It's better to use light properly in the first place.
Thanks man. I would have assumed that using flash outdoors would be a challenge. So darkening the shadows on post would get me near these images?

To get these images you do the opposite of darkening the shadows. These photos have no black in them. Here's the histogram for the photo of the Suburu.

View attachment 99819

Removing all black from the photo was deliberate. It's a very heavily used technique right now and so appropriately classified as a fad. Most commonly it's used in fashion work.

Designer is correct to use the term underexposure. This is the signature look of a botched exposure although in this case it's a deliberate "fashionable" simulation of a botched exposure meant to be stylistic. Drawing the analogy to fashion and so clothing you could think of it as analogous to this: high fashion

How to do it? Get a normal photo and open a Curves adjustment. Head for the black corner, grab the node in the corner and just push it up.

Joe

HSL - (H)ue (S)aturation (L)uminance

Joe
How is this different to h.s.lightness?
 
But is I am a distance from the car, will the flash still work?
Yes. Even though the light intensity drops off rapidly as you increase the distance, a good quality flash unit will (at moderate distance) provide enough light to lighten the shadows.

Flash is rated in guide number (GN) which indicates how much light they can produce at full power. The GN is expressed in either meters or feet. You will need to learn more about how that is used.

Most car photography is done from a distance of between 10 and 30 feet, so you can calculate how the flash will affect the photograph.
Thanks guys, but this brings me to my next question as how does this guy get a dark grayish tone? Without losing the red color. Instagram
Welcome to the forums.

The shots you have linked to are underexposed in my opinion, and a better approach to photographing automobiles is to use "fill flash" which lightens the shadow areas.

If you end up taking some photos that show more light was needed, you can often lighten the shadow areas with editing software, but only marginally. It's better to use light properly in the first place.
Thanks man. I would have assumed that using flash outdoors would be a challenge. So darkening the shadows on post would get me near these images?

To get these images you do the opposite of darkening the shadows. These photos have no black in them. Here's the histogram for the photo of the Suburu.

View attachment 99819

Removing all black from the photo was deliberate. It's a very heavily used technique right now and so appropriately classified as a fad. Most commonly it's used in fashion work.

Designer is correct to use the term underexposure. This is the signature look of a botched exposure although in this case it's a deliberate "fashionable" simulation of a botched exposure meant to be stylistic. Drawing the analogy to fashion and so clothing you could think of it as analogous to this: high fashion

How to do it? Get a normal photo and open a Curves adjustment. Head for the black corner, grab the node in the corner and just push it up.

Joe

HSL - (H)ue (S)aturation (L)uminance

Joe
How is this different to h.s.lightness?

The difference is frequently misunderstood and misrepresented. I only used Luminance in this case because it's the term Adobe uses for it's HSL adjustment panel in ACR/LR. If you're looking at various software programs you'll find both terms used and you should be suspicious that the term is in fact being used correctly.

Lightness is likely the more correct term.

Lightness is a hard arithmetic value while luminance is a perceptual value that weights RGB values to allow for human vision.

Joe
 
But is I am a distance from the car, will the flash still work?
Yes. Even though the light intensity drops off rapidly as you increase the distance, a good quality flash unit will (at moderate distance) provide enough light to lighten the shadows.

Flash is rated in guide number (GN) which indicates how much light they can produce at full power. The GN is expressed in either meters or feet. You will need to learn more about how that is used.

Most car photography is done from a distance of between 10 and 30 feet, so you can calculate how the flash will affect the photograph.
Thanks guys, but this brings me to my next question as how does this guy get a dark grayish tone? Without losing the red color. Instagram
Welcome to the forums.

The shots you have linked to are underexposed in my opinion, and a better approach to photographing automobiles is to use "fill flash" which lightens the shadow areas.

If you end up taking some photos that show more light was needed, you can often lighten the shadow areas with editing software, but only marginally. It's better to use light properly in the first place.
Thanks man. I would have assumed that using flash outdoors would be a challenge. So darkening the shadows on post would get me near these images?

To get these images you do the opposite of darkening the shadows. These photos have no black in them. Here's the histogram for the photo of the Suburu.

View attachment 99819

Removing all black from the photo was deliberate. It's a very heavily used technique right now and so appropriately classified as a fad. Most commonly it's used in fashion work.

Designer is correct to use the term underexposure. This is the signature look of a botched exposure although in this case it's a deliberate "fashionable" simulation of a botched exposure meant to be stylistic. Drawing the analogy to fashion and so clothing you could think of it as analogous to this: high fashion

How to do it? Get a normal photo and open a Curves adjustment. Head for the black corner, grab the node in the corner and just push it up.

Joe

HSL - (H)ue (S)aturation (L)uminance

Joe
Thanks guys so much. I really learned a lot, but I will keep researching and practicing. Huge, huge help on this forum and made my first experience on here amazing. I really do appreciate it. Now I know where to go when I need help. [emoji4] [emoji106]
If dark shadows is what you want, then don't use flash.
 

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