How to choose between a Grey Card, Expo Disk or Light Meter?

[nikonusersince2007]

can you please walk me through the process of using both a light meter and an expo disk to get the correct exposure and wb for a shot? (which do I set first, do I take the expo disk off the lens before taking a picture of my subject, etc...)

I have the sekonic light meter model 300something-how do I get my WB to be correct using a light meter instead of an expo disk? Or do I need to use both the light meter and an expo disk?

99.9999999% of light meters are only capable of reading the amount of light.... so they are only used for setting exposure. There are color temperature meters available, but they're very pricey! 4-digit price tags to start with.

If you want to be accurate, use a light meter and an Exposdisc. Gray cards can be thrown into the mix if you want, especially given they're relatively inexpensive.

 

[480sparky]

can you please walk me through the process of using both a light meter and an expo disk to get the correct exposure and wb for a shot? (which do I set first, do I take the expo disk off the lens before taking a picture of my subject, etc...)

I usually set WB first, then worry about exposure. As long as the light temperature doesn't change, I don't need to worry about WB. If you're shooting in a studio environment, you probably will learn what the color temp of your lights are early on, and never have to reset it for months. if you're shooting in the field, WB can change just as rapidly as exposure can (sun is suddenly covered by clouds, for instance).

 

[Josh66]

can you please walk me through the process of using both a light meter and an expo disk to get the correct exposure and wb for a shot? (which do I set first, do I take the expo disk off the lens before taking a picture of my subject, etc...)

I usually set WB first, then worry about exposure. As long as the light temperature doesn't change, I don't need to worry about WB. If you're shooting in a studio environment, you probably will learn what the color temp of your lights are early on, and never have to reset it for months. if you're shooting in the field, WB can change just as rapidly as exposure can (sun is suddenly covered by clouds, for instance).

Using an Expodisk (or however you spell it), I think I would do it the other way around.

Use the light meter to set the exposure, then put the Expodisk on and set the WB. What good will a custom WB do you if it was taken with the wrong exposure?

And yes, you'll need to take the Expodisk off before taking pictures of the subject... You can't see through it (it wouldn't work very well if you could). It's kind of like a translucent lens cap.

 

[Big Mike]

can you please walk me through the process of using both a light meter and an expo disk to get the correct exposure and wb for a shot? (which do I set first, do I take the expo disk off the lens before taking a picture of my subject, etc...)

Read and re-read your manual on how to set a custom WB.

What you need, is a picture of something that is color neutral. That's why a grey card works, but you could also use something that is pure white or pure black...or something that is any shade of grey that is color neutral (same amount of red, green & blue). You take the shot (fill the frame). Then go into your menu, to where you set the custom WB. It will ask you to choose a photo, so you pick the one you just took. You have now set the custom WB. To use it, change your WB setting to custom (Pre on a Nikon).

As for how to use a grey card, I have a nice little example on my blog here. How to use a Grey Card ~ Mike Hodson Photography

 

[480sparky]

Using an Expodisk (or however you spell it), I think I would do it the other way around.

Use the light meter to set the exposure, then put the Expodisk on and set the WB. What good will a custom WB do you if it was taken with the wrong exposure?

And yes, you'll need to take the Expodisk off before taking pictures of the subject... You can't see through it (it wouldn't work very well if you could). It's kind of like a translucent lens cap.

So you would take a meter reading, set the exposure on the camera, put on the Expodisc, adjust your camera to a custom WB to set your white balance, then take the ED off, then go back to your exposure mode to take the shot?

 

[Josh66]

"Go back to my exposure mode"? Why would I have left it?

I guess (if I understand the question) my answer is yes.

Set exposure. Set WB. Take pictures. How is that complicated?

 

[480sparky]

"Go back to my exposure mode"? Why would I have left it?

I guess (if I understand the question) my answer is yes.

Set exposure. Set WB. Take pictures. How is that complicated?

Either way is correct. WB/Exp or Exp/WB.

To-MAY-toe, Tuh-Mah-toe.

 

[Josh66]

I liked your previous reply better, before the edit.

I still say that a custom WB set using the correct exposure is better than one set without it. I mean, if you're going to go through the trouble of setting a custom WB - I assume that means you want the colors to be as accurate as possible. Why then, would you not make sure that your custom WB was set using the proper exposure? Seems backwards to me...
BTW, the Expodisc can also be used to set exposure.

 

[480sparky]

I liked your previous reply better, before the edit.

I still say that a custom WB set using the correct exposure is better than one set without it. I mean, if you're going to go through the trouble of setting a custom WB - I assume that means you want the colors to be as accurate as possible. Why then, would you not make sure that your custom WB was set using the proper exposure? Seems backwards to me...
BTW, the Expodisc can also be used to set exposure.

Setting a custom WB has nothing to do with exposure. I just put on the ED and fire away, camera settings be damned. The color temp of the light isn't going to change, regardless of my exposure settings.

 

[480sparky]

A video might explain the three a little better:




Custom WB, using ExpoDisc:

Using Auto WB:

 

[APHPHOTO]

I use both the expo disk and the calibration target. To use the expo disk, you simply set the camera up to get custom white balance and aim it at the light falling on subject. The calibration target is usually placed in the area alluminated by the light source being used and you aim at it. I personally dont see a reason for a light meter if your shooting digital.

 

[unpopular]

The light meter in your camera will work just fine, it's just a matter of finding a correct reference. Perhaps having a flash meter would be useful if you plan on shooting with external flashes. But I sold my Gossen Starlight a long time ago and haven't missed it since. It was great with film cameras that lacked a spot meter tho.

As for color meters, you can get older minoltas on ebay for about $500 which will meter both color, intensity and can be used with flash.

 

[unpopular]

BTW- I don't use any of these. I spot meter off the brightest area and increase exposure to the outer limits of my camera's latitude. This approach works in preventing clipping, increasing signal (decreasing noise) and maximizes dynamic range, but requires adjustments in RAW developement.

Because white balance is determined at processing, not at the time of exposure, there isn't any need to be super precise about white balance either.

 

[480sparky]

...........Because white balance is determined at processing, not at the time of exposure, there isn't any need to be super precise about white balance either.

That's assuming everyone has all the time in the world to spend pushing a mouse around setting white balance to a file full of raws. Not everyone has that luxury.

 

[nikonusersince2007]

Can I put the expo disc over a UV or circularizing filter and have the expo disc give a proper WB reading? Or do you NEVER want to have an filter on when take a custom WB reading with an expo disc? Why okay or why not okay?

So it's the receiving light not the reflecting light with the expo?

The camera is set using the light coming through the Expodisc. The disc goes on the front of the lens, just like any other filter (that's why they're sold in common filter sizes).