Night photography--How to get very sharp shots?

catweh00 · Feb 27, 2005

Hello,
I tried my hand at night photography last night, and I could not get very sharp, crisp images. Even with NR on, I always had soft images. I iused shutter priority mode and took pcitures ranging from 1 second to 30 second exposures. Any suggestions? Oh yes, and I used a tripod.
craig

Andrea K · Feb 27, 2005

Hmm, I don't have much experience with night photography myself but from what I've read, I think that even the pressing of the shutter can produce some shake in the image and with 30 second exposures it is noticeable. So I would suggest using the self-timer settings to eliminate this if this is the problem.

Just my $0.02

Dweller · Feb 27, 2005

a remote cable release may help as well.

Sharkbait · Feb 27, 2005

If you don't have a remote cable release, you can use the camera's timer. Also, you might try hanging some heavy weights from the underside of the tripod to help stabilize it.

If you're taking photos of stars, part of the problem might be that as you get up to longer exposures, the movement of the earth becomes noticeable and you get star-streaks.

rmphoto · Feb 27, 2005

if your using a tripod with a shutter release cord (electronic not cable if you camera supports that) then there shouldnt be any problems unless your focusing is off... whats aperature you using by the way?

Geronimo · Feb 27, 2005

As the others suggested, try a cable release or a remote. A good try tripod really helps also. I usually bring a high powered light to get a good focus is possible or use something else to check your focus, distance cars and such. As far as star trails there is a general rule.

As discussed in detail in my article on meteor shower photography, the quickest way to determine the longest exposure that is possible for any given focal length lens, without the stars streaking, is to divide that focal length into 600

http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/d60-night.shtml

Rob · Feb 28, 2005

This is a pure opinion post, but it works for me with 35mm film Nikon, so it should work with digital:

Wait for it to be a black sky, not dark blue or grey - absolutely black is necessary if I have guessed what you're trying to create.
Put your camera in AP mode, not SP. Depending on the lens and camera control features, turn off all the electronics and set the aperture manually. Try and use a prime MF lens if possible.
Set your camera between f8 and f22 and don't have any bright lights in the foreground.
Only use your Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 lens or your Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 lenses - forget the others.
Turn off all the electronic nonsense - image stabilisation, mega-high ISO etc. If you can select ISO, choose 400.
Set your camera to Manual Focus.
Focus correctly

Have another look at the scene.
Get the composition exactly correct.
Have another look at the scene.
Get the focus exactly correct.
If your tripod is not made of substantial material and very heavy it may flex in the breeze - buy something older and heavier and more metal. Also bear in mind passing trains / lorries / pedestrians may wobble the ground.

Shoot! You should get something like this (BTW - no Photoshopping was required!)

I personally don't bother with a cable-release or the self-timer or mirror lock-up, but if you have them they should theoretically help!