Overexposed photos on overcast days... Why??

[480sparky]

Thats not how it works

I know. So, once I figure out the shutter speed with f/16, which shutter speed/aperture combo do I use? Which pair is the 'magic' one for using on overcast days?

 

[gsgary]

Iso100 = 1/125

 

[gsgary]

It works on film speed iso400 = 1/400 f16, iso200= 1/200 F16 then you reduce depending on light

 

[480sparky]

Yes, I know the steps.

But,.........which combo do I use? I want to know the magic combo referred to in post 10.

 

[gsgary]

Yes, I know the steps.

But,.........which combo do I use? I want to know the magic combo referred to in post 10.

Cloudy day hardly visible shadows
Iso 200 1/250 f8

Cloudy day no shadows
Iso 200 1/250 f5.6

 

[beachrat]

Yes, I know the steps.

But,.........which combo do I use? I want to know the magic combo referred to in post 10.

I'm pretty sure you're reading that post wrong.

 

[480sparky]

well its rather hard to read some cannot seem to use the shift key and the punctuation marks have been removed from their computer

 

[beachrat]

It's internet speak.
You gotta be a detective to figure out where to put the commas.

 

[480sparky]

I'm not anyone's girlfriend, so I shouldn't have to spend time rewriting posts just to figure out what someone is saying.

 

[Bebulamar]

All right I am responsible for post #10. What I meant is that the camera at times may have problems indicating the correct exposure because the scene brightness range is excessive. If you have both bright and dark subject in your scene like a backlit portrait on sunny day and you want to have both your subject and the background correctly exposed. That is difficult and sometimes not even possible without resource to fill light or HDR technique. However on cloudy days the cloud diffuses the sunlight and make it very even all over the meter would have a very easy time to indicate correct exposure. Simply put the camera on Auto or even in manual mode and make the settings so that the meter indicates 0. Just remember don't do what the OP did as to set the exposure compensation to +2.7 EV.
If I were without a meter and on cloudy days sunny 16 said that use f/5.6, 1/125s and ISO100. With ISO 200 it would be either f/8 and 1/125 or f/5.6 and 1/250 etc... Using those settings would give 0.3 EV less exposure than the OP camera meter. Either would be just fine.
Like I said there is no magic settings.

 

[beachrat]

Hmmmm,punctuation's still a little dicey.
But I understood it.

 

[wfooshee]

Sunny 16 just points you to good exposure on a sunny day. For overcast you may have a stop or two, even three, less light.

Your meter should work for auto-exposure just fine, once you set that compensation back to zero.

As for magic numbers, there aren't any. it's like ANY situation: do you want high or low depth of field? Is there motion going on you need to freeze? Those factors determine whether aperture or shutter speed is your priority. Once there, you can use A or S mode and let the camera meter the shot.

The fact that it's cloudy has NOTHING to do with what is correct. If you want shallow depth of field, use a large aperture (low f-number.) If you need to freeze something moving, use a fast shutter speed. If the camera can't get you a good exposure with the settings you want in those situations, then adjust the ISO as needed.

 

[mcap1972]

Try shooting RAW. You will have more latitude to correct your mistakes in post.

 

[gsgary]

Try shooting RAW. You will have more latitude to correct your mistakes in post.

It's easier not to make mistakes

 

[480sparky]

Try shooting RAW. You will have more latitude to correct your mistakes in post.

It's easier not to make mistakes

X 1,000,000.

Learning to use your equipment properly to begin with is a lot easier than thinking, "Well, there's always PhotoShop!".