Portrait Photography Question - Autofocus or Manual Focus?

mrobely

TPF Noob!
Joined
Sep 5, 2016
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Can others edit my Photos
Photos OK to edit
Would love to get a professional opinion when shooting models where tripod is not available or when mobility of camera is essential, such as when model is changing poses quickly and there is no fixed focal length.

Is it better to use Autofocus or Manual Focus? I have Canon Rebel t3i, using a Canon kit zoom.

Also just bought a 50mm Prime, but have not used it yet.
 
I'm not a professional, but if your model is changing positions quickly, how can you focus manually and do it accurately? Meanwhile, your lens can focus in a fraction of a second.
 
I'm not a professional, but if your model is changing positions quickly, how can you focus manually and do it accurately? Meanwhile, your lens can focus in a fraction of a second.

The model does hold the pose at my request and I manually focus which seems to be faster than the camera can autofocus and allows me to focus on specific things, like her eyes. Autofocus seems to leave the eyes fuzzy and focuses on face, at least that is my perception of it.

What looks sharp in the viewer looks fuzzy when I see it on the computer screen later, sometimes, so I am trying to figure out if that is because I am moving camera slightly when I squeeze shutter or it's my vision when I'm focusing.

I use the closeup feature sometimes to double check focus when taking photo and that helps but its not infallible.

Just wondering what setting most studio pros use.

I've seen photos of them working and they never seem to use a tripod.
 
Would love to get a professional opinion when shooting models where tripod is not available or when mobility of camera is essential, such as when model is changing poses quickly and there is no fixed focal length.

Is it better to use Autofocus or Manual Focus? I have Canon Rebel t3i, using a Canon kit zoom.

Also just bought a 50mm Prime, but have not used it yet.

Ok, well not a portrait photographer but I spend a lot of time shooting subjects that move whenever they please. So yes, autofocus definitely. Trick is to understand how your camera's autofocus system works, and take control of it rather than letting it have control of you.

For portrait work you want to focus on the subjects eyes, so on my Nikon I reduce the number of focal points to one and place that on the subjects nearest eye. Depending on the conditions I might elect to use as many as nine focal points, but I don't usually give the camera the option of picking from all of the focal points available in most situations to avoid the camera choosing one that I didn't want.

In the interest of full disclosure I'm neither a professional photographer or a portrait photographer, just an avid amateur who shoots mostly critters. But a lot of the basic principles are the same:

20160905_0533 by Todd Robbins, on Flickr
 
Essentially you're talking about flow-posing. Regardless, AF is the way to go. The simple fact is, that today's cameras are not made for manually focusing, and it's very difficult to do with the focusing screens in most cameras. In the days of the split-prism focusing screen, it was easy to see when you were dead-on focus. Now? Not so much. I can't think of a reason why you would manually focus in the studio.
 
Would love to get a professional opinion when shooting models where tripod is not available or when mobility of camera is essential, such as when model is changing poses quickly and there is no fixed focal length.

Is it better to use Autofocus or Manual Focus? I have Canon Rebel t3i, using a Canon kit zoom.

Also just bought a 50mm Prime, but have not used it yet.

Ok, well not a portrait photographer but I spend a lot of time shooting subjects that move whenever they please. So yes, autofocus definitely. Trick is to understand how your camera's autofocus system works, and take control of it rather than letting it have control of you.

For portrait work you want to focus on the subjects eyes, so on my Nikon I reduce the number of focal points to one and place that on the subjects nearest eye. Depending on the conditions I might elect to use as many as nine focal points, but I don't usually give the camera the option of picking from all of the focal points available in most situations to avoid the camera choosing one that I didn't want.

In the interest of full disclosure I'm neither a professional photographer or a portrait photographer, just an avid amateur who shoots mostly critters. But a lot of the basic principles are the same:

20160905_0533 by Todd Robbins, on Flickr

Hi Todd

That's an excellent suggestion, thank you. AF might be the answer if I can figure out how to set one AF point on my Canon, I believe there is a way. For those here with Canon Rebel T3i, is there a way to set only one focal point? I can dig into the users guide, if need be.
 
Hi Todd

That's an excellent suggestion, thank you. AF might be the answer if I can figure out how to set one AF point on my Canon, I believe there is a way. For those here with Canon Rebel T3i, is there a way to set only one focal point? I can dig into the users guide, if need be.

Not an expert on the T3i by any means, but I think on it you have to choose the autofocus point and if I remember correctly you need to be shooting in P, Tv, Av, or M modes. I think (and someone that owns a T3i can certainly correct me on this as needed) if your shooting in one of the automodes the camera can and will override your focus point selection.
 
What looks sharp in the viewer looks fuzzy when I see it on the computer screen later, sometimes, so I am trying to figure out if that is because I am moving camera slightly when I squeeze shutter or it's my vision when I'm focusing.
Perhaps your viewfinder's diopter needs adjustment then. I was fiddling with mine just the other day to make sure it was still correct, and going from one end of the spectrum to the other is a small but noticeable difference.
 
Essentially you're talking about flow-posing. Regardless, AF is the way to go. The simple fact is, that today's cameras are not made for manually focusing, and it's very difficult to do with the focusing screens in most cameras. In the days of the split-prism focusing screen, it was easy to see when you were dead-on focus. Now? Not so much. I can't think of a reason why you would manually focus in the studio.
I'm moving more toward AF with each reply!
 
There are so many facts and so many ways for things not to go well.
Take your time; before you start trying to branch out in different areas of photography just learn to use your camera.
Read the manual, understand the exposure triangle, understand when to use different modes, even learn how to hold your camera (the source of lots of error.)
 
What looks sharp in the viewer looks fuzzy when I see it on the computer screen later, sometimes, so I am trying to figure out if that is because I am moving camera slightly when I squeeze shutter or it's my vision when I'm focusing.
Perhaps your viewfinder's diopter needs adjustment then. I was fiddling with mine just the other day to make sure it was still correct, and going from one end of the spectrum to the other is a small but noticeable difference.
Very good reminder, thank you. I do often overlook this simple step.
 

Most reactions

New Topics

Back
Top