Reversed lens.

[ferny]

Not sure if this should go here of in "Examples, How-To's and Graphics Program Tutorials". I'll stick it here for now.

Ferny, Nice to see another "Z" user here. The use of rubber bands sounds like a pretty good idea actually. I'd like to see those pics of your setup when you have time. If you also have some links to macros you've done, feel free to pass those along as well.

i would also like to see a picture of your setup

All images are hosted at a Lycos account. Let me know if you can't see them. They've all been run through Photoshop's auto-contrast, auto-colour and auto-levels. The pictures were taken on a tripod and with auto focus. They're snap-shots so the focus may be out a bit on some. The only point of them is to show examples. It's taken me longer to right this post than take the images and put them on the computer.

To work out the magnification value you divide the camera lens by the reversed lens. So with a 50mm lens reversed and sitting on a 114mm lens you get +2.8. Everything will be 2.8 times bigger than it really is.

Here is the original set-up. From left to right; A 49mm-55mm step-up ring (home made), a Vivitar MC Close Focus Wide Angle 28mm 1:2.8 (I don't know why it's in this photo, I don't use it because the vignetting is too great), an adaptor which pushes onto the camera and has a 55mm thread on the outside (it's home made out of bronze, you can see a white plastic insert which stops the metal from scratching the plastic camera), a Toshiba PDR-M61 and a MC Rokkor-PF 50mm 1:1.7 (the lens I usually reverse).

Here is what it looks like when put together.

This is the sort of image that you get with the lens on the camera fully zoomed (114mm film equivalent).

Original resized. Notice the vignetting. Mag = +2.8

A crop from the original, no resize. Mag = +2.8

Here is my new set-up. Left to right; MC Rokkor-PF 50mm 1:1.7, two elastic bands, Konica Minolta DiMAGE Z10 and a Vivitar MC Close Focus Wide Angle 28mm 1:2.8.

This it all put together. The thread size on the lenses is 49mm and the thread on the camera is 43mm. The end of the camera fits nicely into the filter thread on the lens. Leaving a tiny gap all the way around.

And these are the images you get. Firstly a resized image straight from the camera using the 50mm lens. Notice the lack of vignetting because with this camera at full zoom it is 290mm. Mag = +5.8

And now a crop of that image. Excuse the lack of focus. Mag = +5.8

With the 28mm lens. The vignetting is back because this is a 28mm 2.8 meaning the hole in the centre of the lens is smaller. Mag = +10.4

And a crop of that. Excuse the lack of focus. The shake didn't stop in time with the, two second timer. I should have set it to 10 seconds and retake it. But... nah. Mag = +10.4

With the 8x digital zoom on you will get silly numbers.

Here is what the macros are from. The red dot is the exact spot.

 

[LittleMan]

I tape my camera lense on :mrgreen:

 

[SeaBreeze]

Thanks for the pics, Ferny, that looks like a good setup you have there. Out of curiousity, when it comes to super macros and using the reversed lens method, are there certain 50mm lenses I should be looking for that work better than others or will only certain ones fit on my camera? I assume it's more a matter of personal preference than anything else, but I'd still like to know. Thanks again...

 

[ferny]

Due to their construction certain lenses work better at close distances than others. It's just the way they're made. To be honest, you'll not notice much difference. I don't know if it's the case with every single lens, but the ones that I have with a 49mm thread fit just right on the end of my Z10. My Z10 has a 43mm filter thread, I don't know if the Z3 is bigger. If it is then it'll be a different story for you.
Oh, and bigger apertures work best. The hole in an f1.4 is bigger than an f2 so you'll get less vignetting.

 

[SeaBreeze]

Haven't looked at the Z10 in person, but by the looks of it the shape and dimensions are obviously similar. However, to me the lens housing does appear to be smaller on the Z10 at the opening where the lens is when compared to that of the Z3.

 

[Andrea K]

much thanks, now that i have some visuals i might be able to attempt this

 

[ferny]

I just had a look at the Z3 and noticed the lens moves. On the z10 the lens is built into the casing. All its movement is done inside the case. On thez3 the lens extends.
I'd personally be wary of putting weight on it and straining the mechanism. I've not held or used the camera so don't even know if that is actually an issue.
I can’t find info of the z3 on the Minolta site. It's not listed as a current camera or a discontinued one. So I can't see what the filter thread size is. It should say in the manual though. If it's not a silly little thing like me 43mm you shouldn't have a problem getting a coupler ring.

 

[SeaBreeze]

Yes, the lens does it fact extend outward (about 3 inches I'd say) whenever it's turned on and then retracts when powered down.

As for the filter thread size, well due to the fact that the lens does extend and retract, you need to use a filter adapter (ZCA-300) which has threads on the end of it for 52mm filters, lenses, etc. I have one on order and in fact should have been delivered today if shipping info is correct. With that attachment I can add on the Quantaray UV filter I got for it and a circular polarizing filter if I decide to.

From what I understand they do make large lenses for the Z3, so I suppose it's "possible" it can support the weight. I have no intention of putting that much weight on it though, but I might get a longer lens for telephoto as long as it's not too big. Check out this site for some of the ones I'm talking about including a super macro lens I plan to order soon (DCR-250) -> Raynox. As for the Konica Minolta site not having info on the Z3, here's the link for it -> Dimage Z3.

 

[ferny]

You have to buy an adaptor to fit fliters? That's not on.

 

[SeaBreeze]

Yes, because with the lens in the retracted position an add-on lens or filter would impact the body of the camera. With the adapter it extends the lens length so that even in the retracted position a filter or add-on lens could be attached without that happening.

 

[ferny]

I would have thought they would include such a thing in the box with the camera. Seems like a way to make an extra bit of money to me.

 

[SeaBreeze]

I agree.

 

[SeaBreeze]

Well the adapter did in fact arrive today, but it didn't connect to the camera in the way that we thought. Instead of connecting to the lens itself, what it does is screw into the housing that the lens extends out from so the lens is never actually in contact with the adapter or add-on lenses (think of the adapter as the barrel and the lens as the bullet). So it's safe to say that since it's attached to the camera in that way, then it can support more weight.

 

[Jess]

I'm curious about the vignetting. I just used my coupler for the first time today and was horribly dissapointed to see the only a circle instead of the whole frame. Is this common? I thought my set-up just stunk.

I noticed in the guessing game thread that there isn't any w/ the vignet, are they cropping them?

Also, very importantly, is there anything particular you do to reduce shake on your macro's? Course, I was shooting something on the ground, so my posture wasn't ideal, but my photo's suck... attached.

 

[Scurra]

I haven't tried reverse lens macro's but I would say the way to reduce shake is the same as in night photography.. set the self timer on the camera so that the vibrations from you pushing the shutter have a chance to subside and also if possible lock the mirror up before you take the shot. This all assumes that you are using a tripod which also helps obviously