Studio Flash Equipment

[Stevedevil]

I am looking ( in UK ) to branch out into Studio work, and have looked at Elinchrom and Bowens Flash Equipment, now I have read a lot about ALL equipment, and have posted a couple of replies bragging adout DX ranges ( Digital as 1/3 f Stop ) and have found myself asking this.....

If im using a light meter, then why go into the price range of 1/3 f stop digital gear, as surely as long as there is a control over the flash, unless im using a prime lense then the Flash equipment can be set to my lens choice.

Also I must take into account when the gear will be used outside a fill in flash, so maybe then choice of equipment may sway to the higher end bracket

Anyway Thanx

Steve

 

[Big Mike]

I don't think it's all that important to have a digital read out on your lights. it might be a nice feature but not important. My light and most I have seen...are in power settings. Full power, half power, 1/4 power, 1/8 power etc. Mine has a slider for control...so it's even more adjustable than 1/3 of a stop increments.

unless im using a prime lense then the Flash equipment can be set to my lens choice.

That statement makes no sense to me. A prime lens is a lens that does not zoom. Zoom or not, that make little difference for studio flash photography.

Also I must take into account when the gear will be used outside a fill in flash, so maybe then choice of equipment may sway to the higher end bracket

Are you talking about taking your studio lights outside? Or are you talking about hot-shoe flash units, which could be used on a flash bracket?

 

[Stevedevil]

Will take gear outside, now the UK range shows only a Battery Pack for Bowens & Elinchrom.

As for prime lens, I may start another Thread about these as quite confused, what do ya think

 

[Big Mike]

As for prime lens, I may start another Thread about these

There isn't much too it. A prime lens has a fixed focal length. 50mm for example.

A zoom lens, on the other hand, is a lens that has a variable focal length. 28mm to 80mm for example.

 

[Stevedevil]

Can we cover more than one question to this thread??

As Have a few questions with regards to the Studio set up and lens choice,

Cheers Steve

 

[Stevedevil]

The prime lens offers a better f stop, but will this still be adjustable enough with studio flash ( any type )

 

[Stevedevil]

As when used for a dark setting, so exposure on an object just using modelling lamp, will a prime lens be an advantage

 

[Big Mike]

Don't take this the wrong way...but you seemed to be confused about a great many things. I can see that you have been doing some reading and trying to learn...and that's great. However, you seem to be missing a lot of the basic information.

I suggest starting from the beginning. Find a book or a web site that starts with the basics. Explanations of the basic terms would be a good start.

Here is one site to get you started. http://www.photo.net/learn/

 

[Stevedevil]

Nothing taken the wrong way, but a Forum is supposed to be about people helping, I understand the fundaments of the camera, but also have been confused about the HIGH END stuff, I use camera in manual all the time, I know about ISO, F Stop, Shutter Speed, and now about the Crop factor, as I was a huge 35mm fan, I have a huge knowledge of MY camera only, so I have learnt that the hard way, Im asking people about exposure, and colour, which we can all adjust in Photoshop, but I dont want to spend £2000-00 on some gear when a decent lens, and some good settings may do the trick, so please dont take this the wrong way, as ive read most forums and maybee are getting more confused by them, you mentioned your equip ( Flash ) and you are using EOS I believe, well does the slider work???

 

[Stevedevil]

I like to ask questions before parting with a lot of cash:lmao:

 

[Big Mike]

When using studio flash...the camera you are using does not really matter...as long as it can trigger the lights.

This is the light that I have http://www.alienbees.com/flash.html the power setting is a slider, which works well. See is here

Yes, I do use EOS cameras...but what does that matter?

 

[Stevedevil]

Well im only asking as I use EOS too, But my question is still the same, I dont have a Degree ( Graduation ) in Photography, I use this site now to LEARN more, The question I still ask is aimed at people who own Studio Flash, and as you do then I will ask,

Gear Type and power ( 125, 250, 500 or 400 )
Amount you think we need for Portrait ( as I think 3 )
Softboxes, umberellas,
Wattage for fill in outside

 

[JIP]

Some people swear by natural light actually, if you look at this month's Rangefindr magazine you will see a story on a high-end sr. portrait photographer that uses nothing but. Other people use all studio strobes it is just up to your own personal style you need to develop this for yourself if you can do portraits with natural light more power to you or studio lights good luck with that as well. As far as lenses there are lots of discussions about portrait lenses a few I would suggest are 50mm 2.8, 85mm 2.8, and 70-200 2.8.

http://www.rangefindermag.com/magazine/Feb07/showpage.taf?page=32

 

[Cuervo79]

Well im only asking as I use EOS too, But my question is still the same, I dont have a Degree ( Graduation ) in Photography, I use this site now to LEARN more, The question I still ask is aimed at people who own Studio Flash, and as you do then I will ask,

Gear Type and power ( 125, 250, 500 or 400 )
Amount you think we need for Portrait ( as I think 3 )
Softboxes, umberellas,
Wattage for fill in outside

I get what you're asking, because I myself am looking for the same thing, I have seen that for starting 2 lights are enough, I am also interested in the power of the lights to take busts and full body portraits.

As mike was saying the lights are independent of what camera or lens you're using, on portraits the best lenses are the ones that have less distortion, so the longer the lense (be it zoom or prime) the less distortion, what lense is up to you because it changes depending on the photographer.

 

[pulpmojo]

The prime lens offers a better f stop, but will this still be adjustable enough with studio flash ( any type )

you can use absolutely any lens with a studio flash, prime, zoom, fast or slow, it doesn't matter

As when used for a dark setting, so exposure on an object just using modelling lamp, will a prime lens be an advantage

again, zoom, prime, no difference. except for the fact that a faster lens will give you a brighter view finder, but of course, everything else being equal, that has no effect on the end exposure.

when using studio lighting, you should use whatever lens and camera settings you would've used if your subject were lit by natural light.

as far as how much wattage you need... indoors 200 W/s will probably be enough for simple portraits, you can probably get away with an even less powerful strobe but you'll be forced to use larger apertures to make up for the low light. My 400 watt monolights usually allow me to shoot at f/8 at less than full power (all this with umbrella or softbox attached), outside you might need a bit more umph, for most situations the amount of light that you would need to shine on your subject would be the same as if you were inside, however, consider this situation, you're on the California coast at about 3pm, and the sun is directly behind and above the subject, the sun is still high up and very bright so metering for the background would render your subject black, inversely, metering for your subject would completely wash out your background, solution, use a 600 to 800 watt strobe on your subject, this should be brighter than the sunlight so your subject will be correctly exposed and since you're lens is at around f/22 or so, the ocean will show up nice and sharp and if you're so inclined, maybe even a bit underexposed, thus making your subject really pop. hope this helps.