Using on camera flash

[Goldcoin79]

Hi, I have some questions about using the on camera flash as most of my photography uses natural light so I rarely use the flash but would like to know a bit more so if I did need to use it for an indoor shot I would have more idea.

I have noticed when you use the on camera flash in a priority mode it sets the shutter speed to 1/60sec which is not long enough to expose for the background in the situation where you are taking a picture of someone and you want to show the background as well. I have watched videos and it seems the best way is to put the camera in manual mode and expose for the background then pop the flash up and take the picture which lights up the person with good background exposure. Is using it this way to only way it should be done and the best way or do any of you have other ways?

I know an external flash is a lot better but just want to know best ways of using on camera flash.

 

[Overread]

The camera has a built in meter, this meter is what is used to detect the light that is reflected off the scene you're shooting at and which goes through the lens into the camera itself. As a result the meter can only work with ambient light; that is the light present in the scene itself.

As such whilst it can read light added by the sun as well as man made light sources like light bulbs and constant lighting - it can't work with the flash light that isn't part of the scene until the photo is taken.


When you select the priority mode (or any other auto mode) the camera makes an assumption as to the situation which is why it defaults to 1/60sec for the shutter speed. It's got no idea what the flash light will do to the scene and the lighting so its still only going to meter and set the rest of its settings based off the ambient light; the flash is then just acting like a full light source; filling in light to the darker shadowed areas of the scene whilst not affecting the strongest light present which is defining the exposure.


IF you shift into manual mode though you can (as you've tried and found) expose more strongly for the areas of the shot not affected by the flash and then allow the flash to have its effect on the other areas of the shot. Note that the flash power is set by the flash automatically (unless you go into manual flash power settings of course) and is done when it fires a split second small power burst of light; reads the light data that comes back from that light on the scene and then fires its main light burst based on that information (you'll typically not see the first flash as its too fast for the human eye).

Like that you can expose for the bright parts (eg the background in your example) and then let the flash light add light to the required areas.

I'd strongly encourage considering an external flash, like a reflector or other light modification it adds a LOT to what you can potentially do and really enhances your creative chances with the camera. Especially when faced with challenging conditions where the camera simply can't capture the shot without adding more light to the scene; even if your own eyes have no problem. Natural light only is actually more challenging to work with and more strongly limits how and when you can shoot.

 

[DiskoJoe]

There is no very good way to use on camera flash which is why some systems dont even bother including them on some models. Buy a cheap external flash and shoot in manual then you can drag the shutter for longer exposures.

 

[kchoi]

You can set the flash to "slow" or "rear" which will tell the camera to unlock the 1/60 limit.

 

[hirejn]

I have watched videos and it seems the best way is to put the camera in manual mode and expose for the background then pop the flash up and take the picture which lights up the person with good background exposure. Is using it this way to only way it should be done and the best way or do any of you have other ways?

The "best" way is subjective. However, you have correct information that by exposing for the background manually and then letting the flash do it's thing in TTL, you will get a more balanced foreground and background. If you leave the flash in TTL, it doesn't really matter what combination of ISO, S and A settings you use. In TTL flash, the values are irrelevant as the flash will bounce light off of the subject until it renders 18 percent gray luminance on the exposure, so you would simply control the background exposure manually and then control the flash exposure with flash exposure compensation. TTL does have some limitations on effectiveness if the shutter is fast and you're too far away from the subject, especially with a built-in flash, which isn't much good past 15 feet, but for average use it's OK. If you were using manual flash, then aperture would affect both ambient and flash exposure, and so would ISO, but shutter speed never affects flash exposure, only the sync.

You can read more about how TTL flash works here.

 

[AmberAtLoveAndInk]

I am not a fan of on camera flash. Like at all. You should definitely invest in an external flash. I personally shoot with a canon 60D which has great focus even in dark settings and most of the time can deliver a great photo indoors before I even edit the image. Just picked up a a great and CHEAP external flash to replace my old dinky one, it's a Neewer TT560 speedlite ($35 on amazon!!). Believe it or not this baby is pretty comparable to a Canon speedlite flash priced at $450. Also, depending on your camera you can bump up the ISO and see if that helps any. Good luck!

Love & Ink Photography

http://facebook.com/loveandinkphotography

 

[JoeW]

Goldcoin79--you shoot with a Nikon D5200 which means that your camera has "commander" capability. A basic "rule" or guideline for a popup flash is that it's useful for basically two things. It is useful as a "fill" flash. So when it's dark it can light up a face. When it's bright (you're on a sunny beach or shooting in to the sun) and your auto settings are telling the camera everything well lit, it will fill in the face of your subject. I get your desire to also provide light for the background. But unless you're shooting unclose and personal, a popup flash just isn't going to do that. The drop off from the light is going to be so significant that you'll end up with an overexposed subject in order to get close enough to light the background. The second primary value of a popup flash on a Nikon is to use it in the commander mode. Have it communicate to an off-camera speed light (either through the commander mode or by flash to another speed light set up as a slave). And THAT is how you'll get your background lit up appropriately.

 

[Clay Olmstead]

What JoeW said. Here's another online guide, this one specific to Nikon CLS. I like this because he gets you started on doing your own experiments, which is the best way to learn.

 

[wfooshee]

Correction to the above:

The D5200 does NOT have CLS Commander mode in its pop-up flash. CLS command requires the SU-800 commander, or a speelight with command mode, be attached to the hot-shoe. The D7000 series is the first line with CLS command built in.

 

[KmH]

None of the D40, D60, D50, D3x00 or D5x00 CLS capable Nikon DSLRs have Commander mode.
Not for the on-board flash unit, nor for hot shoe mounted, or off camera, flash units.

Commander mode was available long before the D7000.
CLS Commander mode is available from the D70 and up - D80, D90, D200, D300, D700, etc.

 

[wfooshee]

By "first series" I meant the first model number in the current lineup as you move up the line from D3x00 and up. Sorry for the confusion.