Hi, let me say first that I'm glad I found this forum as I buy the magazine every now and then and find it very helpful, and second...thanks to anyone who helps me with this major problem.
I shoot traditional film, I'd like to move to digital if I could afford it (but only for previews I guess), currently I am stuck with high development prices, no preview and a Chinon CE-5 slr.
Now I like the camera, it has everything I need...maybe the shutter speeds could be greater in number. But it has everything.
Now I'm currently trying to put together a portfolio for the London College of Fashion and I want to put some photography in it, especially seen as though I am applying for Fashion Photography aswell as Tailoring (I like them both!)
My problem is this. My girlfriend took me to this deserted, run down barn near her last weekend. It was a sunny day, around the evening, so the light was pretty contrasty still....the inside of the barn was moderately lit. I set her up against the window and metered for her face. The result was Iso 200 (Fuji Superia) 1/60 at F 1.6 (or 1.4 can't remember) on a standard chinon 50mm lens with a circular polariser, mounted on a tripod. This was the result....
Now you can see monumental errors here. I realise my main problem was that the light from the window was to bright causing the inside of the room to underexpose...so am I correct in saying that to remedy the situation would require either sufficient interior lighting or a fill flash?
I can't afford a digital camera so I most definately cant afford the lights...so the next best thing is a flash. My question is this....My camera is old, it doesn't support ttl flash metering and only supports two dedicated flashes, i think, which are rubbish. These are the type of flash that lock you into a predetermined aperture with a sync speed of 1/60. I checked the back of the flash unit (Chinon auto s-280) and if I wanted to expose properly at 1.6 I would of had to shoot a 25 iso film from 30ft away!!! thats ridiculous!
So how do I remedy this situation? My camera doesnt support a decent enough flash unit, I don't have the time to work out calculations for a rubbish manual flash with limited aperture leeway....and I cant afford studio lighting no matter how cheap.
Another problem is, that if the answer involves a flash unit, how would I determine the intensity of the fill flash without ttl? So that I wouldn't was the shadow detail out?
I hope all this makes sense, I spent 15 quid developing 34 shots with one pic coming out...I really can't afford to make these types of mistakes again.
Thanks in advance.
I shoot traditional film, I'd like to move to digital if I could afford it (but only for previews I guess), currently I am stuck with high development prices, no preview and a Chinon CE-5 slr.
Now I like the camera, it has everything I need...maybe the shutter speeds could be greater in number. But it has everything.
Now I'm currently trying to put together a portfolio for the London College of Fashion and I want to put some photography in it, especially seen as though I am applying for Fashion Photography aswell as Tailoring (I like them both!)
My problem is this. My girlfriend took me to this deserted, run down barn near her last weekend. It was a sunny day, around the evening, so the light was pretty contrasty still....the inside of the barn was moderately lit. I set her up against the window and metered for her face. The result was Iso 200 (Fuji Superia) 1/60 at F 1.6 (or 1.4 can't remember) on a standard chinon 50mm lens with a circular polariser, mounted on a tripod. This was the result....
Now you can see monumental errors here. I realise my main problem was that the light from the window was to bright causing the inside of the room to underexpose...so am I correct in saying that to remedy the situation would require either sufficient interior lighting or a fill flash?
I can't afford a digital camera so I most definately cant afford the lights...so the next best thing is a flash. My question is this....My camera is old, it doesn't support ttl flash metering and only supports two dedicated flashes, i think, which are rubbish. These are the type of flash that lock you into a predetermined aperture with a sync speed of 1/60. I checked the back of the flash unit (Chinon auto s-280) and if I wanted to expose properly at 1.6 I would of had to shoot a 25 iso film from 30ft away!!! thats ridiculous!
So how do I remedy this situation? My camera doesnt support a decent enough flash unit, I don't have the time to work out calculations for a rubbish manual flash with limited aperture leeway....and I cant afford studio lighting no matter how cheap.
Another problem is, that if the answer involves a flash unit, how would I determine the intensity of the fill flash without ttl? So that I wouldn't was the shadow detail out?
I hope all this makes sense, I spent 15 quid developing 34 shots with one pic coming out...I really can't afford to make these types of mistakes again.
Thanks in advance.