What are your studio lights?

Village Idiot · May 6, 2008

I'm really debating on which one/s I should purchase. I've been looking around at Elinchrom's D-lite 4's, AB800's, WL X1600's, and a few other "entry level" studio strobes. If you have a set of monolights that you use, could you post what they are, their max sync speed, and what your experiences are with them? Maybe others can use this thread as a reference for their future purchases.

Rhys · May 6, 2008

I use a set of 430 and 580 flash units with the STE-2 trigger. A cheaper way to go would be a couple of Metz 45s with an optical or radio trigger.

Village Idiot · May 6, 2008

Rhys said:
I use a set of 430 and 580 flash units with the STE-2 trigger. A cheaper way to go would be a couple of Metz 45s with an optical or radio trigger.

Studio strobes. I already have what I need as far as speed lights go.

Stuff like d-lites, AB's, White Lightnings, Excaliburs, and other monolights.

JerryPH · May 6, 2008

I really like the Elinchrome D-lite 4's but I have some generic studio strobes (no name just a w/s rating) and my SB-800, a Metz and on D-200 camera flash to trigger them all.

Funny thing is that I rarely use more than 1 light lately (SB-800 or single studio strobe). I must be in my minimalist stage. :lol:

Rhys · May 6, 2008

I use speedlights because I don't want to invest in a permanent studio. I'd rather have a large trunk and set up from the trunk as required. As I'm mainly a location shooter, I'm happy.

CanonSnob · May 6, 2008

Photogenics two 500w and one 1kw. With the built in pocket wizard transceivers. Love em.

Antithesis · May 6, 2008

Alien bees seem to be pretty popular. I know a few people that have them and love them. They are simple and indestructible. Oh, and cheap.

SpeedTrap · May 7, 2008

I Use AB's 3 800's
I love the, simple and inexpensive

Jedo_03 · May 7, 2008

Village Idiot said:
I'm really debating on which one/s I should purchase. I've been looking around at Elinchrom's D-lite 4's, AB800's, WL X1600's, and a few other "entry level" studio strobes. If you have a set of monolights that you use, could you post what they are, their max sync speed, and what your experiences are with them? Maybe others can use this thread as a reference for their future purchases.

I have 3 x 600w/s (full power down to 1/32) with 250W modelling lights, large soft-boxes, shoot-through and reflect umbrellas. used mostly as key, side and backlights.
Coupla 300 w/s (full power down to 1/32) for hair and kicker lights.
Obligatory barndoors, snooks. some gels (which I sparingly use mainly for backlighting IF requested...) Wireless hotshoe trigger to 2 receivers (and the onboard slaves on the other rigged lights fire from these 2...
All pack into 2 VERY LARGE pull along suitcases... necessary since I do most of my shoots on location...
Oh - and the sync speed is determined by the camera... most strobes fire a burst of light in the order of 1/4000th to 1/8000th os a second (well, mine do... the sync speed of the camera is set so that the duration of exposure (when the curtains are open) captures the "flash" - this is usually much longer than the flash duration... about 1/125 or thereabouts
Jedo

Village Idiot · May 7, 2008

Rhys said:
I use speedlights because I don't want to invest in a permanent studio. I'd rather have a large trunk and set up from the trunk as required. As I'm mainly a location shooter, I'm happy.

Right. I asked about mono lights. I have speed lights. I don't need any more.

Jedo_03 said:
I have 3 x 600w/s (full power down to 1/32) with 250W modelling lights, large soft-boxes, shoot-through and reflect umbrellas. used mostly as key, side and backlights.
Coupla 300 w/s (full power down to 1/32) for hair and kicker lights.
Obligatory barndoors, snooks. some gels (which I sparingly use mainly for backlighting IF requested...) Wireless hotshoe trigger to 2 receivers (and the onboard slaves on the other rigged lights fire from these 2...
All pack into 2 VERY LARGE pull along suitcases... necessary since I do most of my shoots on location...
Oh - and the sync speed is determined by the camera... most strobes fire a burst of light in the order of 1/4000th to 1/8000th os a second (well, mine do... the sync speed of the camera is set so that the duration of exposure (when the curtains are open) captures the "flash" - this is usually much longer than the flash duration... about 1/125 or thereabouts
Jedo

But that's what confuses me. I've read several reviews and tests that say that once you his over 1/125 with the d-lite 4's, that they start to have the black band, like what occurs when you surpass the x sync, enter the frame. One of the people that complained about this was using pocket wizard PII's, which I know can sync much faster than that. I use them with my speed lights.

The shooter was using a Canon, which all newer models sync at 1/200-1/250 depending on the sensor size.

RubyMagic · May 7, 2008

I currently own one Profoto 600 w/s Head w/ umbrella, air cushioned stand, boom pole, and built in Pocket Wizard. Hoping to get another one soon.

Jim H · May 7, 2008

4 AB800s, 32x40 SB with grid, 30x60 SB, 47" octo, mods (snoot, honeycombs, shovel scoop, gels etc) and PWIIs

notelliot · May 7, 2008

i've got 2 B800s with medium and giant softboxes and various modifiers. i'm looking into getting 3 1600's as well, probably octaboxes for one or two of them.
alien bees are great. but in the long run, i think i would prefer profoto compacts and pro 7b powerpacks. pricey stuff, though.

Early · May 7, 2008

I have an old set of 400w Norman lights that are a bit heavy because of the power supply. But I've read they are much lighter today, and Norman has a fine reputation.

Jedo_03 · May 8, 2008

Village Idiot said:
Right. I asked about mono lights. I have speed lights. I don't need any more.

But that's what confuses me. I've read several reviews and tests that say that once you his over 1/125 with the d-lite 4's, that they start to have the black band, like what occurs when you surpass the x sync, enter the frame. One of the people that complained about this was using pocket wizard PII's, which I know can sync much faster than that. I use them with my speed lights.

The shooter was using a Canon, which all newer models sync at 1/200-1/250 depending on the sensor size.

Hi again VI...
Just did some homework for you
(You owe me a chocolate bar now...)
Have a look at this:
http://dptnt.com/2007/10/flash-sync-speed/
which is a very good explanation of flash sync
Pay attention to the first section, emphasising "that a single flash pulse cannot completely light the whole frame when the shutter speed is too high."
The bit to get your head around is the explanation of how the shutter curtains operate... At fast shutter speeds, the slit/curtains are simply moving too fast for the flash to be exposed on the whole frame...
Conversely - using slow shutter speeds, the whole pulse of the flash is recorded (and the ambient light is -sorta- cancelled out unless you are shooting in daylight and using the flash as fill - as shown...)
It says in this article 1/250 shutter speed max - and you could try that and see what you get... But then you have to 'fiddle' with aperture and DOF constraints...
Hope that helps..
Jedo

EDIT: Re: the wireless transmitter: it has bugger-all to do with sync - it merely sends a signal to a receiver that tells it to FIRE... The sync setting is done IN CAMERA... keep your shutter speed below 1/125 (or 1/250 if you want to sacrifice some DOF)...