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10 step ND filter - I need a little help

Theantiquetiger

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Going to the beach next weekend, so I bought an inexpensive 10 step ND filter for my 70-200 and/or 11-24.


I've watched a quite a few videos on it, but still not sure exactly how to determine the exposure. Most videos say shoot around f9 to f11 and set in bulb. So (for example), if the meter says at f9, it needs to be 1/250 without the 10-step filter, it will be 4 sec with the filter?

Any other tips and advice are welcomed!!!
 
Download the NDCalc app and it will figure it for you, just plug in the shutter speed reading that you get without the filter, put the filter on, then set it to whatever the app tells you.
 
Honestly, I never liked the calculators I always got inconsistent results... I just give it a go at a random time and tune it from there.
 
ND filters, especially 10-stop (not step), aren't exactly all the same. There's quite a bit of variance from one batch to the next.

I preferred to test mine with a camera, and use the histogram to determine exposure. Set the camera up on a cloudless day in the back yard, ISO 100 and take a shot. Look at the histo, then install the ND and change the shutter speed until the histo matched the first shot. I found my copy of the B&W ND 3.0 was closer to 10-1/3 stop. So if my shutter speed was 1/100 without the filter, it would be 13 seconds with it, instead of 10 seconds.
 
Assuming the filter isn't too much off being a 10-stop filter, as Sparky noted, then the following table should help you.

$10 ND filter Exposures.webp

The left side shows the "normal" exposure without the filter, and the right shows the calculated exposure with the filter.

My technique is to get the exposure I want without the filter first, do the focusing, etc. The ISO should be at base ISO. Then I switch the AF off, the VR/IS off, put on the filter, adjust the time (obviously you do this in manual mode), and take the filtered shot. If the time is longer than one second, the camera (depending on your settings) may also take a third shot following the second to perform long-exposure noise reduction. After all that is done, I check the histogram and see if the image is "correct". Comparing the histo of the shot with the filter and the first one without, should tell you if you need to make adjustments to the calculated ND exposure.

Sometimes, depending on your camera's ability to handle low light, you may just use Live-view and adjust the exposure and focus automatically. However, I find a better result if I follow the first procedure.
 
Assuming the filter isn't too much off being a 10-stop filter, as Sparky noted, then the following table should help you.

View attachment 71122

The left side shows the "normal" exposure without the filter, and the right shows the calculated exposure with the filter.

My technique is to get the exposure I want without the filter first, do the focusing, etc. The ISO should be at base ISO. Then I switch the AF off, the VR/IS off, put on the filter, adjust the time (obviously you do this in manual mode), and take the filtered shot. If the time is longer than one second, the camera (depending on your settings) may also take a third shot following the second to perform long-exposure noise reduction. After all that is done, I check the histogram and see if the image is "correct". Comparing the histo of the shot with the filter and the first one without, should tell you if you need to make adjustments to the calculated ND exposure.

Sometimes, depending on your camera's ability to handle low light, you may just use Live-view and adjust the exposure and focus automatically. However, I find a better result if I follow the first procedure.

This. And as someone else mentioned (sparky?), I always check the histogram. That never lies. Sometimes I'll even change the exposure by just a few seconds 134" to 138", just to get it perfect.

Jake


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Honestly, I never liked the calculators I always got inconsistent results... I just give it a go at a random time and tune it from there.


The calc will get you in the ballpark, of course with an exposure that long there will be lots of uncertainty. I usually end up adding a little time.
 
I use an exposure calculator. I'll put the ND filter on and get an exposure reading in Manual mode (usually bumping the iso and using the widest aperture) then use the calculator to figure the exposure stopped down at a low iso.
 
I typically use the handy quick guide that came with my big stopper, shoot, then check the histogram and adjust till it's perfect


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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