About to buy 2 Monolight Set. PLEASE ADVISE

OCDude

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Hello all!

I'm thinking of buying this 2 Monolight set with softboxes or similar: Impact Two Monolight Kit with Bag (120VAC) EX100A-2KI B&H Photo

I took a photography class a couple of months ago and the setup was a large softlight to the side and a smaller softlight with a crane:
http://www.thephotoforum.com/photos/data/500/photo6.jpg

I wanted to know if the kit I was thinking of getting is sufficient to get something like this: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rmhu8Ms6V...ABA/6FiIB-oozQE/s320/tom-brady-wet-Tshirt.jpg

or this picture I took in the class: http://www.thephotoforum.com/photos/data/500/photo25.jpg

Also, it says it comes with a Sync Cord. I remember in the class, we used a elinchrom flash trigger...am I supposed to buy a flash trigger or is the sync cord enough?

Thanks so much!
 
These look as though they would be a good starter set. It is not likely that the quality of the mount and width of the stands will support larger softboxes like the one you used in your course. You'll also be looking at wider apertures because of their lower output. The recycle time is listed as 3 seconds, which doesn't sound like a lot, but when you are trying to develop a flow with a model it can be frustrating. I don't think this would be an issue with casual portrait shooting. You need to start somewhere and it is good to test the waters before making a huge investment.
 
Those are on the weak side for studio lights. I'd recommend at least 160 Watt Seconds for each light. (those are only 100 Ws).
So something like this maybe FPBK1 Flashpoint Budget Studio Monolight Flash Basic Kit with 2 160 Watt Second Flashes, Light Stands, 33" White Umbrellas & Softex Carrying Case. Although this still seems to be a 'cheap' kit.

The example set you you linked to, has a rather large softbox. The kit you liked to, only has 24x24 softboxes...and shallow ones at that. When it comes to creating soft light, bigger is better. Umbrellas are a cheaper way to get softer light, plus they are easy to set up and use, but they tend to spill light all around.

The example photo (Tom Brady) looks to be shot with one light...probably a largish soft box. It doesn't look like there is any light on the background. Your example shot is similar in that the subject is lit with one light, but the backdrop has a light on it as well, in this case.
 
Thanks so much for the responses!

So to get the Tom Brady photo, I would need a somewhat large 1 softbox set? Any ideas on a set?

I remember using umbrellas for continuous lighting before and indeed, they do tend to spill light everywhere, so I think I'll try a softbox this time.

After I get the set, would I need to buy a trigger set like this: Amazon.com: Elinchrom EL 19360 Skyport Universal Trigger Set: Camera & Photo or will the set have everything I need?

Thanks again!
 
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I think the original Impact monolight kit is a better-made pair of lights than the one Flashpoint Budget models Big Mike referred you to. The Impact lights may be only 100 watt-seconds, but they have user-replaceable flashtubes, and the set is only $15 more than the budget set of Flashpoint economy lights. It is very difficult NOT to get into "Cheap" lights at the $199 to $214 for two price point, with stands and modifiers.
 
So to get the Tom Brady photo, I would need a somewhat large 1 softbox set? Any ideas on a set?
Softboxes attach to studio lights via something called the 'Speedring'. There are different designs of speedring for different lights. So once you choose the brand/model of studio light you want, choose a softbox that has a speedring to match.

I use these lights and this softbox (the 'large' size).

Oh ya, I forgot to mention the trigger.

Firstly, all you really need is the cord that will come with the lights. Provided that your camera has a PC flash sync socket. Most cameras these days don't. So if yours doesn't, you would need a hot-shoe to PC adapter. FlashZebra.com: Screwlock PC to Camera Hotshoe Adapter (Item #0158)

Or you could use a wireless flash trigger set. The Elinchrom skyports are certainly an option, but there are others to choose from. The industry standard is the Pocket Wizard Plus II. You would need two units ($170 each).

There are many 'cheap' options. They do work, but you can't count on how reliable they may or may not be. Good for playing around, but not great for professional work.
Wireless Trigger - Gadget Infinity Check out the V4 set or the V5 Duo (two units).
 
You could stack the 2 impact light on top of each other at the same power (making it like a strip box) to get the shot you want
 
If you add on a softbox any larger than a 24x24", I'd want to make sure the light stands are heavy duty air-cushioned and at least 10' tall. Also consider counter weights for the stands with larger modifiers. Medium duty stands would be fine for umbrellas. I use the PCB softboxes also (24x36 medium, 10x26 stripboxes and 47" octabox) and they are easy setup / break down and are double baffled for softer light. I prefer wireless triggers and the PCB Cybersyncs have yet to fail me.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions!!

It looks like I may only need one softbox light to get the image I want based on the advice here, so I searched around and came up with these. What do you think :

SP Studio Systems PRO-S Starter 1-Monolight Lighting SPPROS B&H (36 x 36" Softbox)
FP320SB2 Flashpoint II 320M Monolight Kit, 150 Watt Second, One Monolight Kit with 9.5' Black Light Stand and 24" x 36" Softbox (24" x 36" Softbox)

It says in the description that these have modeling lamps, so I reckon that the original IMPACT set I was looking at doesn't have them?
 
When it comes to producing soft light, bigger is better. Or what I should say....the softness of your light is a direct result of how large and how close the light is to the subject.

But that being said, the shot of Tom Brady, doesn't look to be shot with really, really soft light. I'd guess a medium sized softbox...but it might just be a large softbox that was further away.

The one in your class...if I had to guess, I'd say 24" x 36" (or 40").
 
Calumet lists a Guide Number of 160 for the 400 W-s unit, but NO listing for the 200...kind of a bummer...they make it difficult to choose, with the $329 vs $399 price of the 200 vs the 400 unit. I dunno...to me, in THIS DAY AND AGE, $329 for ONE light, or $400 for ONE light, is just NOT an economical or competitive price point. Yeah, one light can do a lot. Sure. But two is better. And THREE lights is even better, and FOUR lights gets one in to advanced, sophisticated lighting set-ups.

Are you willing to pay $1,316 or $1,600 to get four Calumet Genesis monolights???? Because that's what buying studio light is--it is buying into a "system".
 
Hi Derrel, yes...lights are so expensive! Wish it was otherwise.

Mike, I'm looking into those AlienBees, sent you a PM!
 

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