advice on an SLR

[Seldon]

Hello All,
I need help finding a 35mm SLR (new or used) based on the following
criterion:

Must have features:

1. ability to manually control the aperture, focus, and shutter speed.
2. film reverse for making double exposures.
3. I'd like to be able to use it with my telescope, so it has to have a
shutter that can stay open indefinatley and a mirror that can be
locked up.

Features that would be nice:

-in camera light meter
-flash sync @ 1/250 sec

This will be the first SLR I've ever owned and I'll be doing a lot of learning with it, so the more manual it is, the better. Not that I have a problem with automation, it's just that I don't want to get confused by all of the features most AE cameras offer.

Thanks a bunch and have a good one,
A.

 

[kemplefan]

i have a canon elan 2 wiht some lenses i dont know if taht meets your cryterier but i dont want much

 

[nealjpage]

I use a Pentax K1000. It's fully manual and is built like a tank. They're pretty cheap, too. It should be able to do all of the things you want.

 

[Dave_D]

A Nikon F4s will meet all of your criteria including 250th sync. It does have a well rounded set of automatic features, but it retains all manual and conventional controls. Here is a link to some specs.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf4/htmls/spec.htm

 

[Rob]

I don't think many cameras offer "film reversal" per se - they tend to have a switch overriding the wind-on for a double-exposure. I presume that's what you mean.

The K1000 does not have mirror lock up or double exposure capability. It's a great camera, but more for those who want a simple reliable SLR like the Nikon FM2n or the Canon AE-1. These cameras do exactly what it says on the tin as it were.

A Nikon F3, F4, F5, F6 would do the job perfectly, choose the model according to your budget. The Canon equivilents would also do the same. IMO Nikon are slightly more durable in terms of astro-photography as the mounts seem to be more robust and if you're hanging a body off a dodgy telescope mount in the middle of a field at night, durable is essential!

Rob

 

[Rob]

With the Pentaxes, you can fudge a double exposure by holding the film-side winder spool, depressing the under-body clutch button and winding on at the same time.... it's awkward, but a work around. Your film counter will then be incorrect.

Rob

 

[Seldon]

Thanks for all the great info guys. Rob, what are the Canon equivilants? Like the EOS's?

 

[Rob]

EOS 1, 3, 5, 7 I would guess.

Rob

 

[Seldon]

I read on an astrophotography website once that if you didn't lock the mirror before opening the shutter, the vibration would ruin the picture. Is this true, or was he overstating things?

 

[Rob]

IMO overstating things slightly. I use a Nikon F3HP with motordrive attached to a Meade ETX125AT on the biggest tripod you've ever seen. If the exposure is longer than a couple of seconds, then the initial vibration lasting maybe 1/100th of a second will have absolutely no impact on the shot.

IMO you're far more likely to ruin the shot by walking around the telescope during the exposure or having a train go past!

Rob

 

[usayit]

Yes... It can depending on the camera and the amount of vibration introduced and how long the exposure. Some cameras have an option that would lock the mirror up, wait a bit, and then open the shutter. As already suggested, the Elan II is a great inexpensive camera that should fit the bill. If you can afford more, the eos 1v is full of options that might be perfect for your type of work.

 

[Rob]

FWIW I don't actually know which lever on my F3 is mirror lock up and which is multiple exposure, I never use them!

Rob
p.s. Ok, that didn't actually help... but you know what I mean!

 

[duelinthedeep]

i have a question:-|

the whole flash sync thing i dont quite understand.
would someone mind explaining to me how that works?

 

[Rob]

i have a question:-|

the whole flash sync thing i dont quite understand.
would someone mind explaining to me how that works?

It depends on what you define as flash synch! Here's the basics:

Cameras usually have either an onboard or a shoe for a flash. They also usually have a connector, called a PC connector which does much the same thing - sends a signal to the flash to fire.

The flash gun fires a really fast burst of light. The shutter is open for a length of time... normally about 1/125th. The flash only exposes the subject, the camera exposes the background (or doesn't). You can take a night picture of ten seconds, get a mate to wander into it, flash him, keep the shutter open for another few seconds then close it, and you'll have a spooky, night that looks like day picture. The synch usually refers to whether the flash fires at the start, middle or end of the exposure. The timing affects any moving objects in the frame. Synch can also refer to a number of connected flashes being told to fire at once.

Helpful?

Rob

 

[Mitica100]

I use a Pentax K1000. It's fully manual and is built like a tank. They're pretty cheap, too. It should be able to do all of the things you want.

Yes, there is one for $45.00 + shipping:

Pentax_K1000