I used to soup a lot of Tri-X in it in 4-roll tanks of 36 exposures. Dilution 1:100. Developed with a 1-minute water rise, slam, and stand,then empty. Tank fill with developer solution, agitation like a roller-pin 20 seconds to start, with the tank on its side, back and forth rolling, like a rolling pin,tank brought upright and slammed to dislodge bubbles. Tank set upright. Agitation 10 seconds every 1 minute, using the "rolling pin" method. Most of the Tri-X was exposed at E.I. of 200,250,or 320, not at 400.
How dense and contrasty you want *your* negatives to be depends on your exposure index, metering method, camera/meter,thermometer's accuracy, water, and the enlarger and paper you use. If you have something like a Leitz Focomat IIc enlarger,a great lens, and print on graded paper, your negatives would probably be lower gamma or "thinner", than if you print on say, a crummy diffusion enlarger with a cheezy lens on modern multigrade paper.
Thermometers can vary 3-4 degrees, quite easily! Say, at 68 degrees Farenheit, 16-18 minutes, to as many as 22-24 minutes...there are a number of variables at work! So many that developing times with highly-diluted stuff like Rod One-Onehundred that you really need to tailor the times to YOUR water, thermometer,enlarger, etc...