And now for some seriously weak sauce

[SquarePeg]

Many will use the back button for a focus lock, and the front button for release.

I use my release button for Focus Lock and Release (no change)
and the back button for Focus Lock (and Exposure Lock - AF-L/AE-L) to prevent Continuous Focus or remetering.

Many will use the back button for a focus lock, and the front button for release.

I use my release button for Focus Lock and Release (no change)
and the back button for Focus Lock (and Exposure Lock - AF-L/AE-L) to prevent Continuous Focus or remetering.

I think the option I am trying (very ineptly) to ask about is shutter release vs focus release? I currently have it set at shutter priority. As for BBF, I have read a bit about it but have not tried it yet.

 

[smoke665]

I've found the AF systems on the d600 and d750 (an advanced AF version of what is in the d7100/7200) to be different when it comes to contrast detection.

It's my understanding that Nikon, Pentax and others use two different methods of auto focus, depending on if you're using the view finder, or live view screen. In the view finder "Phase detection" is used, while Live View uses "Contrast Detection". Continuous-Servo AF, (AF-C), will maintain continuous focus on a moving object, but can't be relied on to provide sharp focus because of the lag time between when the shutter is released and the picture is actually taken. Which is why most use a "predictive focus" to calculate the correct focus point on a moving object, and as we all know each manufacturer "has the best method of obtaining that point".

 

[Destin]

Plenty of technical advice abounds in this thread, I won't try to expand upon it.

However it should be noted that slower lenses, like the one you're shooting with, tend to focus hunt more because they allow less light into the camera body. AF systems perform better when they get as much light as possible. Now, the setting you choose for aperture is irrelevant because in modern DSLRs with electronic aperture control the blades remain wide open while focusing and only close down to take the shot. This means that even set to f/11, your camera is focusing through the lens at f/5. 6 and then stopping down for the photo.

All this to say that using a lens with a maximum aperture of 5.6, you're essentially putting handcuffs on your camera's AF system. The focus system in your camera is modern and more than capable of keeping up. There is a reason the pros use 2.8 or faster glass when possible, even if they're shooting stopped down. Not only do faster lenses let more light in, but they tend to have more powerful and therefore faster AF motors as well.

 

[SquarePeg]

Plenty of technical advice abounds in this thread, I won't try to expand upon it.

However it should be noted that slower lenses, like the one you're shooting with, tend to focus hunt more because they allow less light into the camera body. AF systems perform better when they get as much light as possible. Now, the setting you choose for aperture is irrelevant because in modern DSLRs with electronic aperture control the blades remain wide open while focusing and only close down to take the shot. This means that even set to f/11, your camera is focusing through the lens at f/5. 6 and then stopping down for the photo.

All this to say that using a lens with a maximum aperture of 5.6, you're essentially putting handcuffs on your camera's AF system. The focus system in your camera is modern and more than capable of keeping up. There is a reason the pros use 2.8 or faster glass when possible, even if they're shooting stopped down. Not only do faster lenses let more light in, but they tend to have more powerful and therefore faster AF motors as well.

Thanks for the detailed response, great info. If I had a long 2.8 lens is be using it. Unfortunately, it's not in the cards anytime soon so I'm trying to make the most of what I have.

 

[Destin]

Plenty of technical advice abounds in this thread, I won't try to expand upon it.

However it should be noted that slower lenses, like the one you're shooting with, tend to focus hunt more because they allow less light into the camera body. AF systems perform better when they get as much light as possible. Now, the setting you choose for aperture is irrelevant because in modern DSLRs with electronic aperture control the blades remain wide open while focusing and only close down to take the shot. This means that even set to f/11, your camera is focusing through the lens at f/5. 6 and then stopping down for the photo.

All this to say that using a lens with a maximum aperture of 5.6, you're essentially putting handcuffs on your camera's AF system. The focus system in your camera is modern and more than capable of keeping up. There is a reason the pros use 2.8 or faster glass when possible, even if they're shooting stopped down. Not only do faster lenses let more light in, but they tend to have more powerful and therefore faster AF motors as well.

Thanks for the detailed response, great info. If I had a long 2.8 lens is be using it. Unfortunately, it's not in the cards anytime soon so I'm trying to make the most of what I have.

Fair enough. I'm right there with you actually, just wanted to let you know that you may find yourself limited in AF ability because of that fact.

If and when you're ready you can find sigma 70-200 ex dg HSM II lenses for around $500 on eBay. I've owned two of them in the past and they're solid for the money. If you sold your current glass you could offset the cost significantly.