Argus remodeling project

Dr_Totenkopf · Feb 15, 2012

OK guys I'm spending a little more time and money on my Brick. So I thought you guys and galls would like to see what I am up to.

Here is my naked Argus.
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/7913/1202150002.jpg

I have wonderd what i should reskin the camera with. I looked around and saw some realy cool skins for it. I found the leather pattern online, so I'm going to cut some 1/64" or 1/32" copper or brass plates.

I'm working on a "better flash" for her. I got the plans which are linked below.

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-125.html

Now for the thing I haven't found yet is a pattern for the carrying case. The one I got with the camera was destroyed. I would like a new case if I could make one or buy one.

I will post more as the project gits worked on. The plates should be on by this weekend.

OLDSKEWL · Feb 16, 2012

I think hammered brass or copper would look sexy as hell.

Proteus617 · Feb 16, 2012

I picked up some brass shim-stock from Granger for pinholes. If you can't find something suitable, PM me and I can send you a foot or so. Keep in mind that you will want to preserve the access to shutter adjustment screw.

Dr_Totenkopf · Feb 16, 2012

Proteus617 said:
I picked up some brass shim-stock from Granger for pinholes. If you can't find something suitable, PM me and I can send you a foot or so. Keep in mind that you will want to preserve the access to shutter adjustment screw.

Thanks I will let you know if I need it. One thing though what should I use to glue it down? sense I will want to open it up again later.

Proteus617 · Feb 16, 2012

The best stuff for DIY camera skins is contact cement. Nasty gooey stuff to work with, but it does the job and is totally reversible. As you are going for the steampunk/industrial look you may just want to glue a bolt over the access panel with a small nut or threaded insert to provide access without taking off the skin. I skinned mine with gaffers tape. It looks better than you think it would:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m137/Proteus617/5Speed.jpg

Dr_Totenkopf · Feb 16, 2012

What is the best cleaner for the lens housing? I have tried several and none are getting through the light oxidation. I am realty envying your telephoto lens.

Proteus617 · Feb 17, 2012

Oxidized aluminum pretty much stays that way. The best to try and clean it is a very fine abrasive like toothpaste.

usayit · Feb 17, 2012

Yeh... I know the fun of this project is the DIY aspect, but I figure I should throw this out just in case you haven't found them:

CameraLeather.com Custom camera leather and leatherette

They already cut for your camera.

Dr_Totenkopf · Feb 17, 2012

Yes I did see them they have some nice leather available but the Tandy's Leather in OKC can get me the same stuff for less.

Plus I'm going to use copper not leather.

Dr_Totenkopf · Feb 18, 2012

Proteus617 said:
Oxidized aluminum pretty much stays that way. The best to try and clean it is a very fine abrasive like toothpaste.

Thanks. I got a copper plate its a little thicker than I wanted, but I have a drimol tool so it should work.

Derrel · Feb 18, 2012

Proteus617 said:
Oxidized aluminum pretty much stays that way. The best to try and clean it is a very fine abrasive like toothpaste.

There is actually a MUCH better product: Simichrome metal polish. It's available in a small tube, like toothpaste. It has a similar consistencey to toothpaste, but is a metal polish and de-oxidizer combined and works brilliantly (pun intended). I have used it on many different metals: brass, aluminum, copper, silver, and even gold-plate, as well as stainless steel, chromium plating, etc. It is designed as a metal polish! One tube will last for literally YEARS and hundreds of polishing jobs! Simichrome polish can be bought on-line, and is sometimes sold where salmon and steelhead lure-making parts are sold. Read the directions: apply a small amount. Let it sit. Then wipe MOST OF IT OFF. Then polish. Repeat as desired. Many people fail to remove most of the polish...and that takes off a lot of metal...you want to polish a fine surface 3 to 5 times, a little bit at a time!!!

Simichrome polish will take oxidized aluminum and make it look new. http://www.amazon.com/Restoration-Center-Simichrome-Polish-1-76/dp/B000FGICHM

Dr_Totenkopf · Feb 19, 2012

OK I did not get to finish cutting the plates and gluing them on this weekend. I'm not going to be able to do much during the week, because of University and work. But I will try. So from now till I get it reskined, show off your camera mods and skins.

Dr_Totenkopf · Mar 5, 2012

OK that did not work :grumpy:

, even at low speeds my Dremel tool chewed up the copper plate I had and my tin-snips where almost as lousy. So its to Plan B, Light Brown Leather that I can cut with an X-ACTO Knife. I will revisit the Copper plate idea later once I get a router attachment for the Dremel

Proteus617 · Mar 6, 2012

That shim stock I suggested earlier is thin enough to cut with an exacto or scissors. Never tried to use it for a skin, but I would imagine that fine sandpaper wrapped around a pencil or block of wood would be more than aggressive enough for fine tuning.