Auto ISO in manual = Shutter and Aperture priority.

[ORourkeK]

I took my D7100 to the zoo for my first actual outing with it. As soon as I got there I was messing with the settings to get the pictures how I wanted it. I was in manual mode, with my ISO set to auto, an aperture of 5.6, and shutter speed of 1/500. I then realized how truly awesome auto ISO is. It basically creates a "Shutter&Aperture" priority mode. Do most of you use auto ISO? What would be some examples of a time not to use it? The only thing I can think of is if your settings are set to a point where even a high ISO wont allow for enough lighting.

 

[Pejacre]

Just started using it. Feels like cheating but damn, it makes life easy.

 

[KmH]

I used auto ISO to shoot action sports, but if you use aperture priority be sure you keep an eye in the viewfinder what shutter speed the camera is choosing. To slow a shutter speed can cause subject motion/camera shake blurring.

If you use shutter priority you need to keep an eye on what lens aperture the camera is using if DoF is a factor.

 

[ORourkeK]

Just started using it. Feels like cheating but damn, it makes life easy.

Haha it really does feel like cheating... I had to keep looking at the results of each shot to check and make sure the exposures were correct. I was amazed when they were consistently good. It makes me feel like I am in auto mode.

 

[TWright33]

The only thing auto I use is WB.

I can't change shutter speed, aperture, or ISO in post.

I will always manipulate these manually.

I tell my camera what to do (for the most part)

 

[ruifo]

I just used it a few times, with quite good results.
If in a hurry, yes, auto ISO is a great tool indeed for stills.

 

[ORourkeK]

I used auto ISO to shoot action sports, but if you use aperture priority be sure you keep an eye in the viewfinder what shutter speed the camera is choosing. To slow a shutter speed can cause subject motion/camera shake blurring.

If you use shutter priority you need to keep an eye on what lens aperture the camera is using if DoF is a factor.

Since learning how amazing auto ISO is, what would be the point of even using aperture or shutter priority? You could just go into manual and set them BOTH to what you want. And this is truly a question. I can't think of a reason, but I am sure there is one.

EDIT: I do have to admit though, it makes me a little scared and uneasy relying on my camera to create a "proper" exposure. I am not sure I would be willing to use auto ISO on a high risk shot, but I feel like it is perfect for casual use.

 

[Derrel]

I took my D7100 to the zoo for my first actual outing with it. As soon as I got there I was messing with the settings to get the pictures how I wanted it. I was in manual mode, with my ISO set to auto, an aperture of 5.6, and shutter speed of 1/500. I then realized how truly awesome auto ISO is. It basically creates a "Shutter&Aperture" priority mode. Do most of you use auto ISO? What would be some examples of a time not to use it? The only thing I can think of is if your settings are set to a point where even a high ISO wont allow for enough lighting.

I've been talking this up for the last month. For me, it has been a revolution, the way the newer Nikon cameras work in AUTO ISO in manual exposure mode. But there are a lot of fuddy-duddies who just cannot seem to grasp the idea that ISO 140 or ISO 160 isn't grossly inferior to ISO 100 or 200.

The newer Nikon cameras have AUTO ISO that works AMAZINGLY well--in MANUAL exposure mode!!! THat's the thing I think they're not actually "getting". You are the one who chooses the two critical parameters.

 

[Ysarex]

And this is truly a question. I can't think of a reason, but I am sure there is one.

Since the light sensitivity of a digital camera sensor is physically fixed in manufacture and cannot otherwise be altered after the fact, look for your answer by finding out what really does happen in the camera when the ISO is changed either by you or by the camera software.

Taking a photo is an exercise in compromise. For every gain you make in one aspect make sure you understand what you just gave up in another. There's nothing wrong with making compromises -- the best photo is the result of the best compromise. The method of working that you're describing can be a good compromise choice as long as you've thought it all through.

Joe

 

[Braineack]

It's all in your methodology and what you're willing to compromise with.

if you're picking the shutter and aperture, it's for a specific reason and then you're saying: okay camera, use your meter and exposure based on my settings the best you can using only the ISO. Any changes is light will only be handled by changes in the ISO. This could easily ramp up to ISO 6,400 if it needed just 3 more stops of light at a base of 800.

But what happens if you're trying to shoot at say 1/250 on a bright day, and f/2.8, and a base of ISO 100...The camera is wont be able to auto-adjust down if the meter is saying you're over exposing shots. And even if you decided to look at a histogram between shots, and then dial in any EV really fast, nothing would happen, you'd have to dial up the shutter speed or aperture on your own in order to remove more light.

at least if you were shooting just aperture priority it could be limited to 1/250 at the lowest shutter speed, and then it could ramp all the way up to 1/8000 if it had do while still keeping ISO 100 as a base first and foremost, only then sacrificing ISO in order to achieve the exposure.



To me, every shot is different. Last night I used auto-iso, shutter priority, and spot metering in order to shoot the hawk in my backyard.

I went with spot metering because I knew there'd be times where I might be shooting towards the sun, or with trees in the background that could influence the overall exposure.

I went with auto-iso for similar reasons. I wanted to make sure that the hawk stayed exposed regardless of the on-the-fly changing lighting conditions. I was using a lens with a 4.5-5.6, so if I needed more light, there wasn't going to be much on setting sun as far as aperture stops anyways and the ISO could ramp up. But most of my shots were at 1/1000 f/5.6 and ISO 280, what happens if I was overexposing? The Nikon will first adjust the aperture like normal, then move the ISO from the base. So aperture is sacrificed first over "quality".

I went with shutter priority because it was most important that I stop motion/shake first and foremost.

...a few hours before that I was using manual mode and manual iso taking flash portraits.

...a week before that I was using aperture mode with auto-iso and taking indoor flash portraits.

 

[robbins.photo]

I took my D7100 to the zoo for my first actual outing with it. As soon as I got there I was messing with the settings to get the pictures how I wanted it. I was in manual mode, with my ISO set to auto, an aperture of 5.6, and shutter speed of 1/500. I then realized how truly awesome auto ISO is. It basically creates a "Shutter&Aperture" priority mode. Do most of you use auto ISO? What would be some examples of a time not to use it? The only thing I can think of is if your settings are set to a point where even a high ISO wont allow for enough lighting.

I use it quite a bit - I shoot in shutter priority most of the time unless I really want a specific depth of field, in which case I switch over to Aperture priority. I'll check the ISO real quick in the viewfinder, if it's really objectionable then I'll start making some adjustments but it's rare that I end up doing that, nice part is when I do I can just start bringing my shutter speed down a bit until I get something I can live with as far as a balance between ISO and the other settings I like.

I can also use it to keep my shutter speed at a certain point and adjust the ISO to get the aperture I like, makes controlling the 5200 with it's single command dial a real breeze.

 

[ORourkeK]

It's all in your methodology and what you're willing to compromise with.

if you're picking the shutter and aperture, it's for a specific reason and then you're saying: okay camera, use your meter and exposure based on my settings the best you can using only the ISO. Any changes is light will only be handled by changes in the ISO. This could easily ramp up to ISO 6,400 if it needed just 3 more stops of light at a base of 800.

But what happens if you're trying to shoot at say 1/250 on a bright day, and f/2.8, and a base of ISO 100...The camera is wont be able to auto-adjust down if the meter is saying youre over exposing shots. And even if you decided to look at a histogram between shots, and then dial in any EV really fast, nothing would happen, you'd have to dial up the shutter speed or aperture on your own in order to remove more light.

at least if you were shooting just aperture priority it could be limited to 1/250 at the lowest shutter speed, and then it could ramp all the way up to 1/8000 if it had do while still keeping ISO 100 as a base first and foremost, only then sacrificing ISO in order to achieve the exposure.



To me, every shot is different. Last night I used auto-iso, shutter priority, and spot metering in order to shoot the hawk in my backyard.

I went with spot metering because I knew there'd be times where I might be shooting towards the sun, or with trees in the background that could influence the overall exposure.

I went with auto-iso for similar reasons. I wanted to make sure that the hawk stayed exposed regardless of the on-the-fly changing lighting conditions. I was using a lens with a 4.5-5.6, so if I needed more light, there wasn't going to be much on setting sun as far as aperture stops anyways.

I went with shutter priority because it was most important that I stop motion/shake first and foremost.

...a few hours before that I was using manual mode and manual iso taking flash portraits.

...a week before that I was using aperture mode with auto-iso and taking indoor flash portraits.

Cool, thanks for your explanation. I can definitely see where it could have its disadvantages now.

 

[Braineack]

Cool, thanks for your explanation. I can definitely see where it could have its disadvantages now.

that's why I try to go about each shot methodically. I ask myself key questions first like: what's the desired DOF, shutter, etc. and go from there.

 

[greybeard]

I use auto ISO with my 70-300 nikkor 4-5.6 non VR. This is not a very good lens but as long as I stay above 1/500 and around f/8 I get descent images. I set ISO to auto, shutter to 1/500 or above and the lens at f/8, point and shoot.

 

[JustJazzie]

When I test drove a d7100 for a week I fell head over heels for auto Iso. First I turned it off. Then I was trying to catch birds in the backyard and kept getting frusterated when I would go in between tree shots and sky shots. I would be following the same bird and couldn't change exposure quick enough when it would fly away. I quickly set up auto Iso with my maxium acceptable limit and bam! Perfect exposure every time. It's so much more useful imho than sp or ap.

Auto Iso is one of the biggest reasons that Nikon is my choice for next camera!