I understand what you're saying and just want to post the 1st and last shots with no processing to demonstrate your point. I am still in the early learning phase of photography. I was a professional musician all my life until serious health issues forced me to retire and I then took up photography about a year ago to satisfy my creativity. I am in effect trying to transfer my ability from my ears to my eyes so to speak. The thing is, I had my whole lifetime to pay my dues with music and now am just starting again. It can be quite frustrating....Thanks so much for taking the time to help!
Here are those photos as they came out of the camera....What editing, if any, would you apply to these images? Thanks again!
Try thinking about it in this way:
The light is your instrument, understand it and it's nuances.
The camera is your recording desk, understand how to get the best data on the disc.
The re-mix is your post processing, use it to enhance the performance that's already there.
Just as with your music you need a reasonable quality of instrument, (the light), a good recording desk, and a good understanding of what makes music work. Just as with music you have your lowest common denominator stuff such as puppy and kitten photos right through to the really progressive stuff that few understand.
Yes I would and do apply post processing as (in raw mode) the camera just records a literal representation which is not as your eye sees the scene or remembers it, but this is a complex subject that's difficult to compress into a few paragraphs. It's a learning curve.
Think of light as frequency, the higher frequencies are the brightest tones. From a raw file I would probably do something like this to the first image:
I would first compress the highlights but not too much, I would then probably try to raise the brightness by adjusting the exposure. This would bring more brightness into the image and allow a moderate contrast increase which I would apply locally and probably with the use of a series of luminosity masks that would effectively allow me to adjust different brightness ranges separately much like the tone controls on your mixing desk. I can also use these masks in conjunction with hue/saturation controls and even separate colour channels. The possibilities are really immense!
And as with your sound recording it doesn't pay to mess with the relative frequencies too much, as if you compress the values then expand them you are really giving every instrument the same tonal range and so flatten the sound? Making an image appear bright and sunlit is in many ways much the same as making a violin sound good in a recording.
Hope it's of some help.