Basic Beginner DSLR

[siebadn]

I would like to know what specs specifically to look at when trying to find my first DSLR. I currently have a low-level Kodak Z1012, but I can not change out the lens and the controls are awkward to mess with thus an upgrade is wanted. I am just getting into photography more seriously as a hobby so I have a lower budget. Currently, I mostly take portraits and landscapes, but I wouldn't be opposed to branching out in the future.

Would an older camera from E-Bay be sufficient as a starter? I have seen some reviews where they say bodies only have a certain lifespan, but I don't know if they are referring to sensors wearing out or becoming "dinosaur" technology. If it is the sensors, then how old/used should be a cut-off?

What would be a good starter lens? I know most kits come with an 18-55 mm.

I have also seen some people state that a compact flash card retains better image quality than an SD, so should I try to find one that takes a CF card?

Any help would be appreciated. I know you can't pick a camera for me, but I just need some direction in finding specs that work for me.

 

[KmH]

Any of these new, refurbished, or used, will work just fine (used has no warranty from the camera maker. Refurbished waranty varies);

In order of most, to least, recommended

Nikon D3100 14.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens

Canon EOS Rebel T3 12.2 MP CMOS Digital SLR with 18-55mm IS II Lens and EOS HD Movie Mode (Black)

Pentax K-x 12.4 MP Digital SLR with 2.7-inch LCD and 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AL Lens (White)

Sony A390 Digital SLR Camera (Black)

 

[siebadn]

Thanks for the links. I had been looking at older cameras than these even.
My question wasn't really answer though as to what specs to look at specifically.

 

[mjhoward]

I would like to know what specs specifically to look at when trying to find my first DSLR.

Sensor size is an important one. ISO range is important but doesn't really give you any indication of how much noise is produced at a given ISO setting. ISO 3200 might look great for one sensor and terrible for another. If you're into action, the FPS can be an important figure. The number of pixels is important to a lot of people but can be a bit more of a marketing gimmick that an indication of IQ. With higher MP, images can look softer than on lower MP bodies due to limitations in resolving power of lenses. There are also some important figures that arn't advertised such as Dynamic Range and Color Depth.

A good starter lens can depend on what body you get. There are some lenses that are available for Canon that arn't available for Nikon and vice-versa. A good starter lens for a crop body may not work for a FF body if that is something you're interested in, although I suspect you'll be looking for crop bodies. If it were me, I'd skip the 18-55 unless you only plan to use the camera to take snapshots and casual photos. If you are interested in really learning photography, that lens is going to limit that ability, at least for hands on experience. A lens with a larger max aperture (f/2.8 for most zooms) would allow you more DOF control and lower light abilities. Another great piece of equipment that is HIGHLY underrated is a speedlight for off camera use. There are tons of possibilities and things to learn when it comes to OCF.

BTW, where in KY are you from?

 

[dots]

Thanks for the links. I had been looking at older cameras than these even.
My question wasn't really answer though as to what specs to look at specifically.

Personally, if i had money to spend on a camera.. I would buy Nikon. I would buy used. I would buy pro or semi-pro body. D1x, D2x, D3, D200, D300, D700, Fuji ('Nikon' adaptation) S3, S5. I would by FX AF-D primes and zooms, from 1990's onwards.

I don't need fast frames per second. I generally shoot 100-400 ISO (or happy to switch to B&W and embrace the grain, at higher ISOs). Apart from a preferring big, rugged cameras, my priorities are for max shutterspeed (8000-16000th sec), +/- 5 EV, max flash sync (1/250 - 1/500sec), physical buttons rather than fiddly menus, 100% viewfinder coverage, pixel pitch.

 

[siebadn]

mjhoward: You have been very helpful. What is speedlight? Is it equivalent to the D-lighting feature on the Nikons? I played with a few at Wal-Mart earlier, just to see how they felt and I noticed this feature, but I have no clue what it really means. I also know I would like to really play with DOF to make the eye focus better on whatever I chose for the moment, so the f/2.8 bit is very helpful. I suppose I can always buy different lenses as needed/wanted whenever I get those points. What does OCF stand for?

I am at EKU right now for college.

 

[mjhoward]

OCF means Off Camera Flash. The speedlight is just what Nikon calls their hot shoe flash units. They are MUCH more powerful than the pop up flash built into camera bodies but more importantly, they can be used off camera. This allows for all kinds of creativity with light to create 'dramatic' effects and depth. If you've ever used on camera flash, you may have noticed that subjects can look flat do to the lack of shadows.

BTW, if DOF is one of your primary interests, you can get the 50 f/1.8 prime lens for around $120 new. The bokeh (out of focus areas) is kindof harsh compared to expensive lenses but it will allow you to isolate your subject very well for a relatively cheap price. You didn't really give a budget so it is kindof hard to give any real recommendations for bodies and lenses. I'll just throw out there that the D90 would make an excellent starter body though. You can get one used in like new condition for around $600. Some features that this body has over other beginner bodies is a built in auto focus motor and the ability to be a commander for nikon speedlights. The built in AF motor will allow you to have autofocus with older lenses and even some new lenses that don't have built in AF motors. These non AF lenses are generally cheaper and could end up actually saving you money if you plan to acquire several lenses. None of the lenses I have have built in AF motors so this feature has definitely saved me some bucks.