TCampbell
Been spending a lot of time on here!
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The Sony NEX would come up as a great low light camera "in it's category" because it uses an APS-C sensor and most MILC cameras have considerably smaller sensors. But all DSLRs have APS-C sensors... or larger. The NEX is a MILC (Mirrorless Interchangeable Lens Camera). It doesn't have a true reflex mirror and pentaprism with phase-detect auto-focusing. So it's not as fast as a DSLR, but it's more compact because not having a reflex mirror (which takes up a lot of space) means it can have a smaller sensor body.
Here's the physics of sensors and low light:
A sensor is covered with light sensitive receptors called "photo-sites". A black & white sensor is overlaid with a color mask called a bayer mask. The mask has a checkerboard of colors where 4 photo-sites are combined in an arrangement with 2 green photo-sites, 1 red, and 1 blue (human eyes are more sensitive to green so it's more realistic if the camera is also more sensitive to green.). This allows the camera to produce color images. When you cluster those black & white photo-sites coating with the bayer mask of colored checker-board patterns, the grouping of 4 photo-sites (2 green + 1 red and 1 blue) create one single "pixel".
The physical size of an individual photo-site is measured in microns. The larger the photo-site, the more sensitive it naturally is to collecting light (it's a bucket with a larger opening... more photons land on it.) A camera with a physically larger sensor size can also have larger photo-sites. That means they are more efficient at gather light.
Full frame DSLRs (e.g. Canon 6D, 5D series, and 1D series as well as the Nikon D3X, D4, D600 and... actually I hate to lump in the D800 because it's a special case) have larger physical sensors and will typically do much better job in low light (they're also noticeably more expensive bodies.) BTW, the reason I excluded the D800 is because while it is a full-frame camera, it has VERY high resolution... which means it actually has tiny photo-sites. It's native noise performance is actually poor compared to other full-frame cameras. BUT... since it's very high resolution, and you typically don't need all that resolution, when you resample the images back to an equivalent resolution of most other full-frame cameras, the noise tends to get smoothed out and it performs quite well.
That's the CAMERA. But now let's talk about the LENS.
The lens has a HUGE impact on how much light it can gather. If the physical diameter of one lens is twice as wide as another, then that lens with the larger opening is more efficient at gathering available light. This is described as the focal ratio. The ratio is the number of times the diameter of the lens can be divided into the focal length of the lens. An f/4 lens means it's best possible focal ratio is f/4 and that means that you can divide it's widest clear aperture into it's focal length four times. If it were a 100mm lens then it would have a 25mm diameter clear aperture. At f/2 lens means it's clear aperture only divides in two times. With that same 100mm focal length, the f/2 lens would have a clear aperture of 50mm wide. And because of the way the area of a circle is calculated, a 50mm area actually collects four times as much light as a 25mm aperture (not merely two times more.)
So while there are lots of great cameras on the market when it comes to low light, it's really the LENS that will make the biggest difference. If I compare all the various "currently marketed" (so we're ignoring the old models) cameras by all the vendors in a similar price category (e.g. let's just pick on $750 camera bodies) then you'll find that the ISO performance difference is probably not all that great. Some will be better than others... but they wont be FOUR TIMES better... they'll be more like 10% better... 20% better, etc. BUT... if you merely buy a lens with a lower focal ratio (more efficient at gathering available light) you can literally have a lens that's collecting TEN TIMES MORE LIGHT! That's a HUGE difference.
When it comes to determine what influences the quality of your images, the lenses are always more important than the camera body (assuming the camera body isn't junk.)
Buy a Nikon. Buy a Canon. Buy a Sony. We don't care. But buy a lens with a LOW FOCAL RATIO if you want to do well in low light. That's what will make the biggest difference.
Here's the physics of sensors and low light:
A sensor is covered with light sensitive receptors called "photo-sites". A black & white sensor is overlaid with a color mask called a bayer mask. The mask has a checkerboard of colors where 4 photo-sites are combined in an arrangement with 2 green photo-sites, 1 red, and 1 blue (human eyes are more sensitive to green so it's more realistic if the camera is also more sensitive to green.). This allows the camera to produce color images. When you cluster those black & white photo-sites coating with the bayer mask of colored checker-board patterns, the grouping of 4 photo-sites (2 green + 1 red and 1 blue) create one single "pixel".
The physical size of an individual photo-site is measured in microns. The larger the photo-site, the more sensitive it naturally is to collecting light (it's a bucket with a larger opening... more photons land on it.) A camera with a physically larger sensor size can also have larger photo-sites. That means they are more efficient at gather light.
Full frame DSLRs (e.g. Canon 6D, 5D series, and 1D series as well as the Nikon D3X, D4, D600 and... actually I hate to lump in the D800 because it's a special case) have larger physical sensors and will typically do much better job in low light (they're also noticeably more expensive bodies.) BTW, the reason I excluded the D800 is because while it is a full-frame camera, it has VERY high resolution... which means it actually has tiny photo-sites. It's native noise performance is actually poor compared to other full-frame cameras. BUT... since it's very high resolution, and you typically don't need all that resolution, when you resample the images back to an equivalent resolution of most other full-frame cameras, the noise tends to get smoothed out and it performs quite well.
That's the CAMERA. But now let's talk about the LENS.
The lens has a HUGE impact on how much light it can gather. If the physical diameter of one lens is twice as wide as another, then that lens with the larger opening is more efficient at gathering available light. This is described as the focal ratio. The ratio is the number of times the diameter of the lens can be divided into the focal length of the lens. An f/4 lens means it's best possible focal ratio is f/4 and that means that you can divide it's widest clear aperture into it's focal length four times. If it were a 100mm lens then it would have a 25mm diameter clear aperture. At f/2 lens means it's clear aperture only divides in two times. With that same 100mm focal length, the f/2 lens would have a clear aperture of 50mm wide. And because of the way the area of a circle is calculated, a 50mm area actually collects four times as much light as a 25mm aperture (not merely two times more.)
So while there are lots of great cameras on the market when it comes to low light, it's really the LENS that will make the biggest difference. If I compare all the various "currently marketed" (so we're ignoring the old models) cameras by all the vendors in a similar price category (e.g. let's just pick on $750 camera bodies) then you'll find that the ISO performance difference is probably not all that great. Some will be better than others... but they wont be FOUR TIMES better... they'll be more like 10% better... 20% better, etc. BUT... if you merely buy a lens with a lower focal ratio (more efficient at gathering available light) you can literally have a lens that's collecting TEN TIMES MORE LIGHT! That's a HUGE difference.
When it comes to determine what influences the quality of your images, the lenses are always more important than the camera body (assuming the camera body isn't junk.)
Buy a Nikon. Buy a Canon. Buy a Sony. We don't care. But buy a lens with a LOW FOCAL RATIO if you want to do well in low light. That's what will make the biggest difference.