Blue Halo's around objects

[Coleman121]

Hi guys,

I just picked up a sigma 18-35mm 1.8 (absolutely love this lens) but today when I went to edit a photo I noticed something. When I use ACR I always tick the remove chromatic aberration box (this lens performs pretty well with cyan and purple fringing) and it removes that well. But I've noticed not only with this lens but with other lenses too, out of focus objects further behind the subject in my images have this blue halo-like line running around the edges. This happens before I even touch my RAW images. I'll try to post a photo soon. Ticking the remove chromatic aberration removes cyan, green and purple fringing perfectly, but doesn't correct this issue.

Is this normal, and could this be due to shooting at a shorter focal length?

 

[Coleman121]

Here is just an example, no edit to this raw

 

[Coleman121]

And this is after ticking remove chromatic aberration box. Notice how there's still a strong blue halo-like aberration in the out of focus background trees. How can I fix this, is it an optical issue? Is it common?

 

[TCampbell]

This is normal. The "out of focus" leave means you're getting a bit of a blend of green (leaf) with blue (sky) resulting in that darker blue. Where things are sharp you don't get that result.

 

[N4646W]

Has anyone found a way to rectify this ? Skylite filters sometimes have helped, but not always, and I have not found a way in post yet.

Ron

 

[JBPhotog]

Has anyone found a way to rectify this ? Skylite filters sometimes have helped, but not always, and I have not found a way in post yet.

Ron

No amount of filtration can help as it would also affect the entire image and may be detrimental.

You don't mention the camera settings, Vibrant or Landscape will increase the blue green saturation making the problem worse. There also may be some Lateral CA involved and depending on software this can be minimized.

 

[wfooshee]

The color of that halo you're seeing is base on the color of the objects, and will be much more pronounced in this situation, with a single color (some shades, but basically green) against a single color background. Shoot those palms against a sunset, or a cloudy sky, or even some clouds, and the mixed color area will be a different color. As stated before, it's a result of the out-of-focus bokeh "blending" adjacent colors. I think what you expected was an out-of-focus green, not blended with the sky's blue.

Look where those leaves cross the lamp post. The white almost bisects the leaves completely. That's the same effect, with white instead of blue.

 

[N4646W]

JBPhotog

I use mainly a D610 and sometimes a D800e. I use neutral or flat, and all my lenses are AIS (some are conversions). The lenses that give me the least amount of problems are my Nikkor lenses from my S2 Bronica. Go figgure. None of the lenses have been chipped yet, and lack of newer coatings puts me behind the curve. It is much less of a problem with the 610, therefore it gets much more use.
Ron

 

[JBPhotog]

N4646W

Have you tried Nikon Capture NX-D? Not only can it deal with CA but also Axial CA and also U-Point technology for localized adjustments which may help your processing.

 

[N4646W]

N4646W

Have you tried Nikon Capture NX-D? Not only can it deal with CA but also Axial CA and also U-Point technology for localized adjustments which may help your processing.

Yes, but because my lenses have not been chipped yet, the CA is unavailable. DXO will get rid of most of it, but then I'm stuck with a Tiff file and slight color corrections which I prefer to do in RAW. I will probably go back to NX-2 where it was available, but I am just getting used to all the ins and outs of NX-D, and put NX-2 on the back burner.

Ron