Blurry football pictures under stadium lights

[ronlane]

This isn't a BBF issue at all. But not sure why you say that Sparky. For moving subjects, in my opinion, it makes more sense. You lock focus with the thumb and don't have to wait on the shutter button to focus.

Not looking for a long debate because there are a number of ways to get the same shot as we all know. But I've been using bbf for sports for 8+ years now and use it on all of my cameras.

 

[NS: Nikon Shooter]

-

I shoot sports and wildlife and BBF is essential

 

[480sparky]

This isn't a BBF issue at all. But not sure why you say that Sparky. For moving subjects, in my opinion, it makes more sense. You lock focus with the thumb and don't have to wait on the shutter button to focus.

Not looking for a long debate because there are a number of ways to get the same shot as we all know. But I've been using bbf for sports for 8+ years now and use it on all of my cameras.

With moving subjects, you must press -and hold- the BBF in order to maintain focus. This is hard for ME, as it makes it harder for ME to hold the camera. I start to loose my grip, considering I'm usually using long, heavy lenses.

If BBF focus works you you, then by all means, run with it. No debate from me at all. But those who peddle BBF as the supreme method is not doing the craft any favors.

 

[NS: Nikon Shooter]

With moving subjects, you must press -and hold- the BBF in order to maintain focus. This is hard for ME, as it makes it harder for ME to hold the camera. I start to loose my grip, considering I'm usually using long, heavy lenses.

If BBF focus works you you, then by all means, run with it. No debate from me at all. But those who peddle BBF as the supreme method is not doing the craft any favors.

Sorry to hear that but loosing your grip explains why it might not work
for you. As for "those who peddle BBF as the supreme method is not
doing the craft any favors", this is not a mature nor wise judgement as
it is biased by your personal impairment.

 

[480sparky]

Sorry to hear that but loosing your grip explains why it might not work
for you. As for "those who peddle BBF as the supreme method is not
doing the craft any favors", this is not a mature nor wise judgement as
it is biased by your personal impairment.

Let's try this again:

BBF does not work for me, for reasons already stated.

But it's not 'immature' to claim BBF is the panacea to all focus problems. If BBF is the end-all perfect method, why do cameras default to shutter-release focus and have BBF as an option instead of simply being BBF all the time with no other option?

Here's the reason: It works for some people and doesn't work for others. It may work for some people in some situations, and not others. This is why I use BBF for landscape, but not sports & BIFs.

And this isn't an 'impairment' on my part. I don't have 'defecting' hands. I have large hands. Swinging my thumb up to engage BBF causes me to use the ball of my hand to 'grip' the rear of the camera. Towards that end, I find BBF is perfect for static subjects because then I'm usually shooting from a tripod and 'grip' isn't an issue. I can focus using BBF, then not have to worry about it ever again.

Nor is it 'wise' or 'mature' to push BBF simply because it works for you.

 

[NS: Nikon Shooter]

-

BBF started with the long lenses combos and was integrated
to all workflows… even in studio, I swear by it.

 

[ronlane]

I agree with Sparky in that neither is the end all be all solution to focusing issues. Find what works for you and go with it.

I merely wanted to understand Sparky's situation with it and I do now.

Again, to bring this discussion back to the OP's question, her problem was not a BBF issue.

 

[wfooshee]

I'm in the camp of: forget about the settings for moment and let's make sure the lens works. Take it out in daylight and point it at something about the same distance as the players in the football picture. Take some pictures. See if they're focused.

There's also a menu adjustment for the shutter button's release priority, whether it releases regardless of focus or waits for positive focus. Check on that. In the menus it's called release priority and focus priority.

 

[NS: Nikon Shooter]

her problem was not a BBF issue.

… but may well be part of a solution.

 

[jcdeboever]

BFF doesn't work for me either. I just pump the shutter. I would turn of VR as well.

 

[photoflyer]

You lock focus with the thumb and don't have to wait on the shutter button to focus.

Agreed. I like to know I have focus long before I take the shot. In fact with the R6 I can see if it

1) has focus
2) has locked onto the subject
3) is eye tracking

Sure this can be done with a half press of the shutter button but that requires a lighter touch and in an dynamic situation I want to be "focused" on the shot, not how light my touch is on the shutter.

 

[PJM]

I'm wondering if the OP has solved her problem. If you are still out there please let us know how it is going.

 

[ac12]

Agreed. I like to know I have focus long before I take the shot. In fact with the R6 I can see if it

1) has focus
2) has locked onto the subject
3) is eye tracking

Sure this can be done with a half press of the shutter button but that requires a lighter touch and in an dynamic situation I want to be "focused" on the shot, not how light my touch is on the shutter.

I think it is down to the camera itself and the shooter.

I seem to be able to do the half press fairly easily on my Nikon D7200.
And I can and do often fire off single shots, with the camera in continuous high mode.

I think this is in part due to the feel of the shutter button.
- The feel of the Nikon shutter button is REALLY NICE. I can easily feel the half-press position.
- As I recall, the half-press on the Canon T7 is not as easily felt. Even one of my students commented that the shutter button on the Nikon D5600 felt better than the Canon T7i.
- My Olympus does not have a tactile half-press when using the e-shutter. So I end up mashing the shutter button.

And in part due to a LOT of practice. A year ago, the camera's shutter count was over 100,000. So my finger has a LOT of experience with the shutter button.

 

[RacePhoto]

Get that ISO up so you can use a smaller aperture.

Correct! Obvious cause for most of the problems, ISO 100? That's for bright daylight or on a tripod in low light. Not sports.

I'm also a fan of center point focus for these situations. Get the subject in the middle and crop later. The sample looks like the camera grabbed the contrast from the yard line, white against green. The most defined portion of the image.

1600 +, my ISO is 100, and my aperature is F/2.8

Really? I can't even imagine that group of settings in daylight. Just doesn't seem right at all?

You can probably get away with 1/500th, ISO 800 or 400 if you are worried about grain, and see what you get for the aperture. Also notice: since this is stadium lighting, you should set the exposure to MANUAL because it's not going to change?

 

[ACS64]

Hello-I am an AMATUER photographer. I am using a Nikonn D5500 with 70-200 mm F/2.8 lens, and I cannot seem to get my camera to focus for these types of action shots. I sit in the stands, use the viewfinder, my shutter speed is 1600 +, my ISO is 100, and my aperature is F/2.8. My focus is AF-C. I changed the settings multiple times, and I believe it is a focus problem. Thoughts? Ideas?

Thanks!

My $.02 I'd still like to see the real exif data.