Cameras with low max ISO settings

[earthmanbuck]

I have a couple cameras that have a maximum ISO setting of 400. I understand (or I think I do) that if I was to shoot with faster film I could do so by leaving the camera set to 400 but closing to a narrower aperture or using a faster shutter speed. Is there any way to get around this on an automatic camera? Specifically, I want to pick up some T-Max P3200 and try some night shots in my Canon AF35M...but it doesn't seem like that's very doable, because if I want to push it to 3200 I should also have my camera set to 3200, right?

On a related note, when does understanding exposure become easier? I've been shooting for a few years now, but I still feel like I'm doing advanced calculus every time I try to go beyond the basics, and I know it shouldn't actually that difficult.

 

[480sparky]

You can shoot higher ISOs, but you'll need to adjust your exposure manually to do that.

You might be able to use EC for a couple stops, but beyond that you'll have to calculate the difference yourself and adjust your shutter speeds and/or apertures accordingly. ISO 400 to 3200 is 3 stops.

So if your cameras' ISO is set to the max of 400 and it gives you a meter reading, you'll need to manually increase the shutter speed 3 full settings (i.e., 1/60 to 1/500 or 1/2 to 1/15), stop the lens down 3 stops (i.e., f/5.6 to f/16 or f/8 to f/22), or a combination of both.

 

[Ysarex]

I have a couple cameras that have a maximum ISO setting of 400. I understand (or I think I do) that if I was to shoot with faster film I could do so by leaving the camera set to 400 but closing to a narrower aperture or using a faster shutter speed. Is there any way to get around this on an automatic camera? Specifically, I want to pick up some T-Max P3200 and try some night shots in my Canon AF35M...but it doesn't seem like that's very doable, because if I want to push it to 3200 I should also have my camera set to 3200, right?

On a related note, when does understanding exposure become easier? I've been shooting for a few years now, but I still feel like I'm doing advanced calculus every time I try to go beyond the basics, and I know it shouldn't actually that difficult.

You're not pushing the film to 3200 if the film is rated at 3200.

Given that camera (Canon AF35M) I believe you're out of luck. If you load up Tmax 3200 you'll be overexposing the film by 3 stops with the camera set to ISO 400. You could drop off the film with instructions to pull-process it and tell the lab what you did.

Joe

 

[john.margetts]

Yes, the camera needs to be manually set to the film speed so you are out of luck using anything faster than 400 ISO. There are no manual controls on thus camera so you can do nothing to compensate for the camera's metering system.

You could try 400 ISO film at night, mind. It has always worked well for me.

Exposure is quite simple - you only have two variables to worry about. If you are struggling I expect you are over-thinking it.

 

[earthmanbuck]

Thanks for the responses—it's what I thought, but needed to double check. Maybe I do somewhat understand it after all!

You're not pushing the film to 3200 if the film is rated at 3200.

I was under the impression this film was actually 800 film that can go to 3200 with good results...but I imagine you'd have to let the lab know what you shot it at in order for them to get the developing time right, no?

 

[dxqcanada]

You are somewhat correct ... the nominal ISO is 800/1000
http://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/products/F4001.pdf

 

[webestang64]

I tell all my BW customers that T-Max or Ilford 3200 is DX coded for 3200 so that is the "normal" starting point. If they bring me a roll of 3200 and say I want it processed normal because I shot it at the "true" ISO I say I still have to charge more for a "pull".