CC filters
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Derrel
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No, they are not in "stops", but in Color Correction Units.SOme people call them "points", like "10 points, 20 points, 30 points." Somewhere I have a FULL set of CC gelatins and a holder for my view camera kit!!! It's been sooo long since I've shot any film with them!
Here's a decent link. http://faculty.mdc.edu/rabruna/Lighting CC guide34.pdf
Here's a decent link. http://faculty.mdc.edu/rabruna/Lighting CC guide34.pdf
Helen B
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The number is the density without a decimal point in front of it, so CC075M has a density of 0.075 for example, and CC30M has a density of 0.30 (ie about one stop) in magenta. Simple as that. No mysterious "points". CC stands for colour compensation, so these are called compensating filters.
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unpopular
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well, poop. I ordered a CC20M hoping it'd be approximately two stops under to test my noise theory that cameras bias green and compensate by pushing red and blue. My tests suggest red is being pushed nearly 1 stop to compensate for daylight. I hoped that CC20M would be two stops, and I could compensate for half stop under by exposure.
Oh well, it only cost me five bucks and I should get some results...
Oh well, it only cost me five bucks and I should get some results...
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Derrel
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CC15 magenta helps the Nikon D2x have better color response according to that Russian guy who's been on dPReview forever...the really tactiturn fellow whose name escapes me...what camera's sensor are you trying to manipulate? Is it the new a700's sensor?
unpopular
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yes. the a700. but my experience has been every RAW I've encountered is biased green.
RPP lets you adjust the individual channels, including the second green channel if you want to mess stuff up, manually. I consistently am finding that for daylight WB, the red is pushed about +1.5 EV, blue is pushed +0.5 EV. It seems to revolve around green, which stays at zero regardless the WB. What that says to me is that it's normally under exposing red and blue, so by filtering green light out by -2EV and increasing exposure by +2EV, I'm letting in more red and blue light in relative to green; I can then pull both red (-0.5) and blue (-1.5), rather than having it push by default.
It sounds really complicated, but if you download RPP and play with the WB settings, you'll see what I mean.
RPP lets you adjust the individual channels, including the second green channel if you want to mess stuff up, manually. I consistently am finding that for daylight WB, the red is pushed about +1.5 EV, blue is pushed +0.5 EV. It seems to revolve around green, which stays at zero regardless the WB. What that says to me is that it's normally under exposing red and blue, so by filtering green light out by -2EV and increasing exposure by +2EV, I'm letting in more red and blue light in relative to green; I can then pull both red (-0.5) and blue (-1.5), rather than having it push by default.
It sounds really complicated, but if you download RPP and play with the WB settings, you'll see what I mean.
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