chinon cp-5 twin program help

[timor]

Safety lock is not on.
I checked the sprocket and it had motion in both directions.
The film advancer was not 100% after ^ checking the sprocket, and so now that is cranking up normally and is no longer loose. but the shutter button is still not working.

Now it doesn't look good. Advance lever now shouldn't move. Try turning the sprocket with your finger towards the take up spool until resistance. If there is no resistance something is mechanically wrong.
When you move film advance lever, what is doing shutter curtain ? Is it moving ?

 

[cassidy]

Now it doesn't look good. Advance lever now shouldn't move. Try turning the sprocket with your finger towards the take up spool until resistance. If there is no resistance something is mechanically wrong.
When you move film advance lever, what is doing shutter curtain ? Is it moving ?

There is no resistance when I turn the sprocket.
When I move the advance lever the sprocket and the spool both turn, but the curtain doesn't do a thing.

 

[timor]

It doesn't look good, some spring is not engaging. Sprocket should firmly stopped after permitting about 37 mm of film to advance. Next frame. Without it shutter, which is apparently cocked, is not permitted to fire. Now come back the problem from rewinding the first film, something didn't worked out properly and possibly some damage occurred. Not, that it is your fault, just old camera and quite complicated to. Try to push the release pin once more, like for rewind and see, if is still engaging properly, if it stays pushed in. If it does just turn the sprocket with your finger towards the take up spool, see, if the pin jumps out, see, if sprocket will stop, if it does, see, if you can fire the shutter. If it will not help tell me again... how much did you pay for this camera ?

 

[compur]

It was a mistake to use baking soda to clean the camera's battery holder. Baking soda is for cleaning up car battery contacts. Car batteries are acid-based and baking soda is alkaline so the soda neutralizes the acid of the car battery residue. Don't use soda on camera equipment.

Camera batteries, the types that leak and make a mess in cameras, are the opposite -- they're alkaline based so you clean up the mess with a mild acid such as plain white vinegar. When you apply the vinegar the mess will bubble up. Keep applying the vinegar until the bubbling stops and the area looks clean (or as clean is it seems to get). Then you may also need to scrub or grind the contacts if there is any remaining residue or if the contacts were physically corroded or pitted by the leakage.

When you used soda on your battery compartment it didn't neutralize anything because the leakage mess was alkaline and so is the soda. It may have seemed to clean the area but the metal is probably still coated with a layer of residue which could interfere with the current flow from the batteries. It takes more current to power a shutter than to power the meter indicators so that may be the cause of that mystery -- the dirty battery contacts offer too much electrical resistance to allow enough current for the shutter but enough for the meter.

There may be other issues with that particular camera but you would have to properly clean the battery area first and go from there. You may also need to try a fresh set of batteries (the set you used before may now be drained).

 

[cassidy]

T

It was a mistake to use baking soda to clean the camera's battery holder. Baking soda is for cleaning up car battery contacts. Car batteries are acid-based and baking soda is alkaline so the soda neutralizes the acid of the car battery residue. Don't use soda on camera equipment.

Camera batteries, the types that leak and make a mess in cameras, are the opposite -- they're alkaline based so you clean up the mess with a mild acid such as plain white vinegar. When you apply the vinegar the mess will bubble up. Keep applying the vinegar until the bubbling stops and the area looks clean (or as clean is it seems to get). Then you may also need to scrub or grind the contacts if there is any remaining residue or if the contacts were physically corroded or pitted by the leakage.

When you used soda on your battery compartment it didn't neutralize anything because the leakage mess was alkaline and so is the soda. It may have seemed to clean the area but the metal is probably still coated with a layer of residue which could interfere with the current flow from the batteries. It takes more current to power a shutter than to power the meter indicators so that may be the cause of that mystery -- the dirty battery contacts offer too much electrical resistance to allow enough current for the shutter but enough for the meter.

There may be other issues with that particular camera but you would have to properly clean the battery area first and go from there. You may also need to try a fresh set of batteries (the set you used before may now be drained).

This is very helpful... it was suggested to me by someone who deals a lot with mechanical-type things to use baking soda but it was obviously too hasty of me to not do a little more research into that. So I will definitely clean the case again then put new batteries in and see where the camera is from there.

 

[cassidy]

It doesn't look good, some spring is not engaging. Sprocket should firmly stopped after permitting about 37 mm of film to advance. Next frame. Without it shutter, which is apparently cocked, is not permitted to fire. Now come back the problem from rewinding the first film, something didn't worked out properly and possibly some damage occurred. Not, that it is your fault, just old camera and quite complicated to. Try to push the release pin once more, like for rewind and see, if is still engaging properly, if it stays pushed in. If it does just turn the sprocket with your finger towards the take up spool, see, if the pin jumps out, see, if sprocket will stop, if it does, see, if you can fire the shutter. If it will not help tell me again... how much did you pay for this camera ?

Hmm nothing.
I actually kept the ruined film and trimmed off the area that had been torn; I reloaded that film to see if I could properly then rewind it back and it worked completely fine this time around without anything becoming jammed or torn. Camera still isn't working, but at least I don't think there is anything wrong with the area of loading film...I'm going to try cleaning the battery compartment properly to see if there is a difference.
I paid $30.00 for this camera, all sales final where it was purchased.

 

[timor]

Off course there is no more problems with rewinding the film. Sprocket is moving freely either way. The pin at the bottom, is it in or out ?

 

[cassidy]

The reason I put the film back inside was to see if I was laoding it correctly, if I had perhaps put it in wrong the first time and caused some issues.

However! Camera is fixed

I re-cleaned the battery case, applied new batteries. On top of that I removed the bottom of the camera and took a few pieces off inside the camera, reassembled after cleaning those pieces. Film shutter began to work properly after everything was put back-together and now there is film inside and the camera appears to be sound... hopefully. For now, at least. Thank you for the responses.

 

[timor]

Glad to hear that.

 

[Mike_E]

Glad to hear that.

Glad it's working!

One other thing you might try is putting a small bit of Di-electric grease on the contacts. This will help maintain good contact. Battery corrosion is a beast to get rid of permanently.

 

[cassidy]

Glad it's working!

One other thing you might try is putting a small bit of Di-electric grease on the contacts. This will help maintain good contact. Battery corrosion is a beast to get rid of permanently.

Thank you for the suggestion ! Yeah the batteries sometimes lose connectivity and I have to take them out, then put them back in. ...Its a pain .