Color shift when photographing on foamcore

[daviddk]

I often use white foamcore as a base to sit products on. My new batches (from two different retailers) of foamcore are photographing with a blue tone. I have done a test shoot with both the new and my old batch of foamcore, and the old batch does not shift color, so I know its not my camera or strobes.

I am using a Nikon D800 set to 5600K and Norman ML600 and Norlite 400 lights. My Minolta color meter registers them at very close to 5600K.

Assuming that its UV, I tried a UV filter which did nothing.

Suggestions?

 

[Derrel]

The blueish tinger you're getting is probably due to some type of "whitening agent" added to the FoamCor's surface layer. The issue you are having is not at all unheard of; what I mean not unheard of is that many "white" materials, like shirts and blouses,papers,and even some flowers, can photograph "blue", and yet they appear white, or super-white, to human vision. You might try setting the white balance on the camera to a fixed value, and after having done that, add a Skylight 1a or Skylight 1b filter, or some other type of warming filter, to counteract the cool, blueish cast you're getting. The Skylight filters have a very subtle, warmer-than-clear appearance, at least to my eye. These are _NOT_ the same as a clear filter, nor the same thing as a UV filter.

Another option is to procure a new supply of FoamCor sheets from another supplier or from another manufacturer.

 

[daviddk]

Thanks for your reply. I started with a skylight filter and changed to a UV. Neither did anything. I can change the White Balance setting in Camera RAW to "auto" and it gets rid of the blue, but also changes the color of the product slightly. I was hoping to find a solution that would avoid changing the product color.

 

[daviddk]

Below is a photo of a test. 6 different sheets of foamcore. Unfortunately, the stores that carry it here all have the stuff that photographs as blue

 

[JBPhotog]

I would agree with Derrel, you are likely seeing fluorescence from the chemical whiteners I the paper. You don’t say if all your flash tubes are UV coated, best not to mix them. If not, Rosso makes a UV gel you can sheet your flash source.

FWIW, I never use foamcore as a base for products. I prefer using Formica or what is called plastic laminate counter top material. The white is neutral and you can get a nice satin finish, glossy or textured depending on your needs and supplier. It can be cleaned and does not mark or stain easily. If your home builder doesn’t have small sheets, a countertop or cabinet maker should, and it comes in standard weight or a thinner version which bends quite easily.

Foamcore also yellows with age which can be a problem as a reflector too so date them with a small pencil mark or replace often. I use white insulation foam board, no paper to turn yellow but it is textured so watch it when shooting chromed products.

 

[daviddk]

The Norman ML600 tube was new, in a Norman box, when I bought it. It did not come from Norman so I don't know how old it is. I have no idea if the Norman Norlite 400 tubes are coated. Given that 3 of the 6 boards photographed as white, I am assuming the flash tubes are not the problem.

Formica is a great idea. I had not thought of that. I agree that it wold be much better than foam core which dents easily and gets dirty.

Thanks for your reply

 

[mrca]

I use either translucent plexi for white and sometimes support it with a light from below or white seamless for a sweep. My current saw horses are all tied up supporting a sheet of ply wood that I purchased that was too thin for my matting and cutting table so improvised by pulling my dining room table open and setting the plexi over the opening and lighting from below.

 

[JBPhotog]

The Norman ML600 tube was new, in a Norman box, when I bought it. It did not come from Norman so I don't know how old it is. I have no idea if the Norman Norlite 400 tubes are coated. Given that 3 of the 6 boards photographed as white, I am assuming the flash tubes are not the problem.

Formica is a great idea. I had not thought of that. I agree that it wold be much better than foam core which dents easily and gets dirty.

Thanks for your reply

You are welcome.

Seamless can work but it too suffered from marking, wrinkling, staining and puckering depending on the humidity and storage technique. This is why typically in a commercial studio one will find a rack of Formica colours for small product work. Given the space the best method for storing Formica is hanging which requires some wood to clamp one end and hooks to suspend it off horizontal bars. If one has a few sheets you can stand them on the long edge, make sure they are supported by a piece of MDF so they don’t curl.