Extension tubes vs. Close up filters

If I understand what has been said. One, extension tubes may (or may not) retain auto focus. There will be light loss due to added length of tube. Two, with quality close up lenses, again, considering the Canon 250D and 500D, may possibly be a better choice, at least for me at this time. I was planning on getting the largest filter size for each and using step up rings if needed. Would be able to use on a variety of lenses that I have and see which I prefer. Make sense? Would this cause any IQ problems with the image? All comments are very much appreciated.

Hard to answer if all is unknown. What do you expect to be photographing? Bugs? Flowers? At what approximate distance? 3 feet or 3 inches?

Yes, the extension tubes will cost a couple of stops of aperture (light) at 1:1 magnification. So will the macro lens. The closeup filter will not, but it cannot do 1:1 anyway.

To understand this, with your 60mm macro lens, set it to f/2.8. Then focus up as close as possible (a couple of inches) on something, and you see it change to a new maximum about f/4.8. That is the light loss due to 1:1 magnification. Of course, to have any depth of field, we have to set 1:1 work up near f/16, but this maximum aperture affects focus.

At least on a fairly long zoom, the filter will offer a decent choice of framing and focus (works sort of like a lens). And the macro lens can do anything. With extension tubes, you have zero choice, simply only the one thing the combination (extension and lens) can do.

The closeup lens is noticeably less sharp at the edges, but stopping down well (like to f/8 or f/11) helps (which is a loss of light too, but it does not affect light for focus). And if pictures are of a bug or flower (in the center), the edges are probably not real important. If you have a regular magnifying glass in the house, you can experiment with it to see the effect with the camera.

The Canon 250D and 500D numbers means the filter lens alone (no camera lens) will focus at 250 or 500 mm (1/4 or 1/2 meter). That means its magnifying glass effect is 4 or 2 diopters. The 250 is a stronger magnifying lens than the 500. We might use a 10 diopter lens to copy slides (but the macro lens will be much better quality).


Again, the really big question in my mind is: What is wrong with the micro lens you already have? It would certainly be my first choice, for any use, will do anything, and in the best way. Since you have it, I think considering anything else would be poor choice. :)

For 1:1 extreme closeup work, there will only be a couple inches clear space in front of the 60 mm micro lens (which can tend to block the light), but the extension tubes will be the same, and the close up filters wont do 1:1 magnification at all.
 
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We all have preferences and opinions, and mine is the opposite. Sure, some extension tubes have AF contacts, which let focusing sort of "work" at greater intermediate (mild) distances, but I'd say give up all hope near 1:1 magnifications. My experience (without fail, at least with standard lenses) is to see virtually zero useful focusing range at 1:1. This is why focus rails were invented, to focus by moving the camera back and forth. Evidence: Look up novice problems with "my lens will not focus with extension tubes". extension tubes wont focus - Google Search The answer is "of course it can't, move the camera back and forth instead". The OP wanted auto focus, therefore extension tubes are the worst way to go. A close up filter would be better (focusable, although they will work better on longer lens). Extension tubes provide ONE magnification choice (without choosing different rings), and near 1:1, they focus at ONE camera position (which we have to find). Or of course, focusing is simply no issue with a macro lens (at least up to its 1:1 limit). There are choices, but in contrast, actual micro lenses are a real dream, they simply just work, as expected, really well.

The only macro work I've done has been with extension tubes so I can't comment on the other methods, but I will say that, though I do end up using manual focus most often, the auto focus works just fine. I will usually use AF to find my subject then switch to manual to get what I want. Usually the depth of field is very narrow and the AF doesn't always know where to fall. Also, like mentioned earlier, if you want to focus stack, the MF is a must.

I use my tubes on a zoom lens which gives me a little more flexibility with the magnification although not much. You do have to change them out if you're looking for any real change in magnification.
 
100-300 zoom lens, filter thread between 52-67mm, add a Raynox DCR-250 (or DCR-150 for less ratio). Job done :)

Raynox are a three element in two group design with no CA (and I mean no CA), on a 100-300 zoom you get a variable ratio up to a 4:1 at a lens to subject distance of over 200mm with the DCR-250. Very comfortable working distance. They are darn sharp and all my macro lenses and bellows are gone, history, its the working distance vs the ratio you can't beat.

All the best and good luck.

Danny.
 
There is no blanket 'best'.
Tubes give more magnification with short focal lengths, whilst diopters (often called close up filters - even though they don't filter) work better with long focal lengths. Both can be used together and reversed photography lenses can work very well as diopters.

There seems to be an increasing amount of disinformation in macro regarding a 1:1 limit. My recent µ4/3 tubes even saying that they should only be used where the extension is less than the focal length. What rubbish! DOF reduces with magnification, so macro becomes more difficult as you increase magnification, but in the right situation 4:1 and more is quite acheivable with practice.
 
Thanks to everyone for their knowledge and advice. I must admit I am very much leaning toward the close up "filters". Seems that for me that may be the easiest way to go for now. Again, thanks to all for comments and knowledge, and opinions. Appreciated.
 

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