Focus stacking

Raley

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So im trying my first attempt at focus stacking and i have run into a problem. When i try to adjust my focus for the second take the lens zooms and the frame changes so when i go to stack they wouldn't line up, if that makes sense. What am i doing wrong? How do i focus without adjusting the frame? Using a nikon 105mm 2.8 micro lens..
Below are some quick example shots i took to help better explain my problem.. Thank you for any help! Sorry im a novice...
focusstack.jpg
focusstack-2.jpg
 
No matter if you move the lens closer or if you shift the point of focus you will change the frame content. This is why you learn to shoot wide with your first shot so that by the time you reach the last you are framing what you want to see in the final photo. With a static subject like a flower you can easily set things up for the last shot and then move/focus back and then work in again knowing that you'll arrive where you want by the final shot.

The stacking software you use will account for the difference in frame content and line things up on its own very well. When you get the output you'll see the edges of the frame are blurry - a result of where content changed between shots. Remember you need overlap in the depth of field between each shot so that the software can line things up correctly. So if in doubt take more frames and move things slower.

Software can include CombineZP (legally free to use); Helicon Focus; Zerene Stacker; Photoshop - all four work well but work in slightly different ways. I've had stacks that failed with one but worked with another so sometimes its best to invest/spread yourself out a bit with software for stacking as the subtle differences can make or break a stack.
 
No matter if you move the lens closer or if you shift the point of focus you will change the frame content. This is why you learn to shoot wide with your first shot so that by the time you reach the last you are framing what you want to see in the final photo. With a static subject like a flower you can easily set things up for the last shot and then move/focus back and then work in again knowing that you'll arrive where you want by the final shot.

The stacking software you use will account for the difference in frame content and line things up on its own very well. When you get the output you'll see the edges of the frame are blurry - a result of where content changed between shots. Remember you need overlap in the depth of field between each shot so that the software can line things up correctly. So if in doubt take more frames and move things slower.

Software can include CombineZP (legally free to use); Helicon Focus; Zerene Stacker; Photoshop - all four work well but work in slightly different ways. I've had stacks that failed with one but worked with another so sometimes its best to invest/spread yourself out a bit with software for stacking as the subtle differences can make or break a stack.

Thank you so much!
 

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