Fuji X-T4 touch screen and focus point

CherylL

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I've had the X-T4 for over a year now after trading in my X-T2. I turned the touch screen off right away. Now I'm wondering if I am missing out on using the touch screen to move the single focus point? I saw a tut recently for the Canon R6 where the person was using the drag method with her thumb to move the focus point around while looking thru the view finder. I tried it today with the Fuji and not sure if I want to use it. It does seem faster than the joy stick.

I've seen portrait photographers using the camera screen instead of the eye piece. This isn't Fuji specific. Thoughts if this is a better way to shoot?

With my Canon 5Dmark iii and the Fuji I primarily use single point focus.

Edited: X-T2 not X-T3
 
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I could never work that way but that's me. If I'm auto focusing, I use a single point and recompose. I suppose because I use film cameras and they are so old, that's the way they work. Having said that, I pretty much manual focus all my cameras for the most part, even my x100f and gfx50r. I occasionally will shot AF but it is as said above. I guess it's just another way in all reality. Work with what gets the shot.
 
In studio I shoot thethered mostly. If the camera is on tripod, I use live view with face detect. If I'm hand held, I use single point focus, half press to focus on the eye, recompose, then trip the shutter.
 
I could never work that way but that's me. If I'm auto focusing, I use a single point and recompose. I suppose because I use film cameras and they are so old, that's the way they work. Having said that, I pretty much manual focus all my cameras for the most part, even my x100f and gfx50r. I occasionally will shot AF but it is as said above. I guess it's just another way in all reality. Work with what gets the shot.
I can see why you like manual focus if that is most comfortable for you and you get the shot. My eyes are not as good and I have problem with the lens baby manual focus.
I did the focus recompose when I started out and my photos were not as sharp for me. I like the joy stick on the Fuji compared to the Canon buttons to move the single point.
When I first got the X-T2 I had a problem not being able to drag the shutter like I did on the Canon. You suggested to move the shutter dial to T. Still using that and thank you!
 
In studio I shoot thethered mostly. If the camera is on tripod, I use live view with face detect. If I'm hand held, I use single point focus, half press to focus on the eye, recompose, then trip the shutter.
I did live view on the Canon for the grand's Christmas photos last year with a remote release and worked out well. The fuji has the eye face detect and it seems to be hit or miss for me so I quite using that feature.
 
I can see why you like manual focus if that is most comfortable for you and you get the shot. My eyes are not as good and I have problem with the lens baby manual focus.
I did the focus recompose when I started out and my photos were not as sharp for me. I like the joy stick on the Fuji compared to the Canon buttons to move the single point.
When I first got the X-T2 I had a problem not being able to drag the shutter like I did on the Canon. You suggested to move the shutter dial to T. Still using that and thank you!

Oh cool, I helped someone. There are so many ways to operate a camera. It's good your trying different things, you won't know if it is good for you until you try. I don't think there is a best way, just what works for you.
 
Oh cool, I helped someone. There are so many ways to operate a camera. It's good your trying different things, you won't know if it is good for you until you try. I don't think there is a best way, just what works for you.
I'll play with screen and drag focus point. One setting I changed is full screen to right side for the method. I did notice that on the X-T4 the focus point stay is separated on the portrait vs landscape position. The X-T2 did not have that option and that is one of the things I gave feedback to Fuji on a survey.
 
I'll play with screen and drag focus point. One setting I changed is full screen to right side for the method. I did notice that on the X-T4 the focus point stay is separated on the portrait vs landscape position. The X-T2 did not have that option and that is one of the things I gave feedback to Fuji on a survey.
I turned all that stuff off, it just gets in my way. Give me a 100% viewfinder, aperture ring, shutter dial, and a nicely dampened focus ring with a short throw and I am a happy man.
 
turned all that stuff off, it just gets in my way. Give me a 100% viewfinder, aperture ring, shutter dial, and a nicely dampened focus ring with a short throw and I am a happy man.
Like Rip Van Winkle, I went to sleep in the film era, took a 30yr nap and woke up to digital photography. It's been a struggle to drag me into the the new tech world but I'm getting there.

In the old days I had no problem finding focus in the viewfinder with their split prisms. Match the lines in the target, press the shutter, done. Today the only way I'm assured of sharp focus on manual is use the LV screen and blow it up 16x. Unless I'm on a tripod that isn't an option. I've learned to rely on the speed and accuracy of AF now.

I was like you at first, I turned everything off, it was to confusing and old dogs hate new things. There's a lot of stuff to learn behind those dials, hidden deep in menus, and most instruction manuals are a joke on explaining things. One by one, with trial and error, I started to learn what each feature added and where it could be useful. Now I can make informed choices on what to use where.
 
I turned all that stuff off, it just gets in my way. Give me a 100% viewfinder, aperture ring, shutter dial, and a nicely dampened focus ring with a short throw and I am a happy man.
I love the external dials on the Fuji. When I switch and use the Canon if feels awkward not having everything at your finder tips.
 
I was like you at first, I turned everything off, it was to confusing and old dogs hate new things. There's a lot of stuff to learn behind those dials, hidden deep in menus, and most instruction manuals are a joke on explaining things. One by one, with trial and error, I started to learn what each feature added and where it could be useful. Now I can make informed choices on what to use where.
I don't have the long history of cameras like you and JC. Starting with my first DSLR about 7 years ago and too much to learn all at once. I think you are correct in saying trying things one by one with trial and error.

I learned using manual settings with the occasional Auto ISO which is handy for for video on the go with changing light circumstances. For tripod video I set the ISO and the manual focus so the video is not hunting and refocusing. I did try Aperture and Shutter priorities, but it seemed cumbersome to me. With the Fuji it is easy to change settings without looking away from the view finder. I think the Canon R6 is set up with external dials? I'm still researching if I want to trade in the Canon.
 
did try Aperture and Shutter priorities, but it seemed cumbersome
Outside, on the fly I use Aperture priority, combined with Pentax P-ttl flash a lot. EC is on a thumbwheel next to the shutter. The communication between the two is great. Run and gun.

In studio it's all manual except for AF. If I'm on tripod I like the flexibility of face detect. It's easier to see stray hair/buttons/clothing/etc. When you aren't looking through a viewfinder or at a screen. I can stand up watch the subject and push the shutter when ready.
 
I could never work that way but that's me. If I'm auto focusing, I use a single point and recompose. I suppose because I use film cameras and they are so old, that's the way they work. Having said that, I pretty much manual focus all my cameras for the most part, even my x100f and gfx50r. I occasionally will shot AF but it is as said above. I guess it's just another way in all reality. Work with what gets the shot.
"Get the shot." Exactly. What ever works best for you. I use manual myself most of the time, it just works better for me. As I said, most of the time.
 
I tried the drag method of the AF point on the Fuji at a photo meet up portrait session. Yes, it is faster than the joy stick. However, slightly bumping the screen between shots I had to find the AF point. It usually ended up on the far left side of the screen. Also having my thumb on the screen I accidentally hit the menu button with my palm. With portraits I generally use the same AF point location with only a minor move one point over or under. The AF points are not linked with horizontal to portrait camera positions. Overall it is more a pain than what I need.
 
The AF points are not linked with horizontal to portrait camera positions.

One of those Pentax "hidden" features I use frequently is the Horizontal and Vertical indicator to get it close in either the Viewfinder or LV. If I activate the Horizon Correction it will automatically correct it the rest of the way, up to 1 degree with Shake Reduction on, or up to 2 degrees with Shake Reduction off.
 

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