Hello, newbie here! Fuji Gs245s questions

meow7 · May 28, 2016

Hi,

I have delved into the medium format world and I'm playing around and need some insights. I did some research and bought a Fuji Gs245s, loaded up the film and I'm wandering around basically taking test shots, we'll see what happens when I develop them! Focusing through the rangefinder is not that easy and I have to wear my reading glasses, no diopter, ugh, so it seems my greatest challenge with this camera is focus. I did some experiments with zone focusing. Let's say that at f11 the range should be somewhere between 2m and 5m. The actual subject is 3m away, got out the tape measure and everything. However when I focus it anything but 3m is out of focus. OR is it not really out of focus but the focussing screen just tells me that and I should assume (never assume) that anything between 2 and 5 meters will be in focus.

So I guess I'm a Rangefinder newb as well!! The focus is accurate, I tested it at 1m, 2m and 3m. each were bang on.

Can you by stick on diopters?

Thanks
Adria

Ysarex · May 28, 2016

Very nice camera. I sympathize with you for the eye glass issue, I've suffered the same for decades. Stick on diopters? Super glue?

The focusing aid in a rangefinder is entirely mechanical (not optical) and will not respond to variations due to depth of field. It only shows you the plane of sharp focus.

You need to test your zone focus parameters to make sure you're happy with the results depending on your use. Only the plane of focus is completely sharp. The drop off in sharpness then away from that plane is progressive (forward and back) until it reaches a point where you perceive it as not sharp. When we use a zone focus scheme (rely on DOF) we're always working with the fudge factor that's built into the term "acceptably sharp."

Joe

meow7 · May 29, 2016

Ah yes, we want tack sharp photos when our eyes are no longer tack sharp! So, I'm taking 2 photos, one just zone focusing and the other actually focusing with the circle. I have taken almost 2 rolls and today I'm going to develop them. We shall see... Being a a slightly vintage person myself I learned and grew up with film, I had film until 2002 I think, then embraced digital, I currently have a Fuji XT-1, which I absolutely adore. But both my kids took photography classes in school with the Canon AE-1 and I got re-inspired. I kick myself now for selling my Konica Hexar. Oh well.

I've also had some trouble with loading, when I load it and it's winding onto the spool, it always goes past the arrow that I need to line it up with, then I fudge around trying to get it to line up. How critical is that? I guess I'll see when I develop. Hopefully later today I can see what I have. Or don't have!

Thanks
Adria

terri · May 29, 2016

Welcome to TPF, Adria! Good luck with the development - please share your results. Hopefully the focusing issue isn't as bad as you think it might be - fingers crossed!

gsgary · May 29, 2016

I've only got rangefinder cameras one is a Fuji GW690 and I can't understand the problem you are having with focusing because it is very easy on the Fuji you just place the focus patch where you want focus and just overlap the 2 images, loading after lining up the arrows and shutting the back you wind it onto 1 so I don't think it matters if you go past the arrows

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

meow7 · May 29, 2016

Like I said, I'm a rangefinder newb! I don't have a problem in general with the focus, I just don't trust my eyes! So just an issue of getting used to it.

gsgary · May 29, 2016

meow7 said:
Like I said, I'm a rangefinder newb! I don't have a problem in general with the focus, I just don't trust my eyes! So just an issue of getting used to it.

Just trust the focus patch MF Fuji lenses are some of the best

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

Gary A. · May 29, 2016

The arrow shouldn't be a problem. Trust the rangefinder patch and don't worry about your eyes. Get the images to match and Viola! I am also of the vintage ilk and I have realized that seeing everything crystal clear in the viewfinder really isn't all that important. I tend to previsualize my images, adjust the camera settings, focal length and position to reflect my mental image, focus (now that part should be clear and sharp) then frame. Trust the camera.

meow7 · May 30, 2016

So... This is 2 firsts for me, using the medium format Fuji AND developing them myself! Didn't turn out too bad.

I have another roll to process.

Ysarex · May 30, 2016

How are you digitizing and processing the digital images?

Joe

meow7 · May 30, 2016

I scanned them at 800 maybe 1200, not sure which is the best dpi, everyone has a different opinion! Then sent them thru PS, with some curves adjustments. They look darker here. I am still not sure the best way to scan them. Some say to save them at say 8x10, them resize, and flatten the levels so there is no clipping then adjust.

meow7 · May 30, 2016

I didn't process any farther than just adjusting the curve. No sharpening etc. Oh a little crop and straighten...

The film is Kodak 400 TX Max, developer Xtol at 7.5 mins, Photographers Formulary TF4.

Ysarex · May 30, 2016

meow7 said:
I scanned them at 800 maybe 1200, not sure which is the best dpi, everyone has a different opinion! Then sent them thru PS, with some curves adjustments. They look darker here. I am still not sure the best way to scan them. Some say to save them at say 8x10, them resize, and flatten the levels so there is no clipping then adjust.

Scanned them with what? You have 120 roll film. What do you have to do the scanning?

Joe

meow7 · May 30, 2016

It's an Epson V550, the negatives are very sharp, scans not so much.

gsgary · May 30, 2016

They look pretty good, when you nail them you can get great shadow and highlights detail
one i took with my fuji GW690 https://photos.smugmug.com/Fuji-GW690/i-K352rHM/0/XL/248-XL.jpg