Help regarding light meters

[Compaq]

I'm getting my education loan soon, and can spend some cash on equipment. I want a hand held light meter, mainly to be used with my analogue rangefinders, whose meters I don't fully trust - they're old

So, I've understood that incident light meters are the most accurate. However, these require me to be standing in the exact lighting as my subject. Are these a pain to use for landscapes? On a sunny day, I would expect that taking a reading in the sun would be accurate enough for the entire scene, given that the scene is in direct sunlight.

I really want my exposures to be as good as possible when shooting film. Am I much better off investing in a decent incident light meter? I'm willing to spend up to $350 on this.

If someone could help me, maybe even share models that they think would fit my needs, I'd be very grateful!

Regards,
Anders

 

[Derrel]

Gossen, Sekonic, Minolta...all those companies have made good light meters. Buy the best one in your price range.

 

[TCampbell]

The Sekonic L-758 has the built-in "reflected" light meter (aka "spot meter"; you can sight through it and it'll give you a meter reading... like the built-in meter on a modern camera). But an L-758 is a bit over $600. The L-358 does _not_ have the spot meter but they do sell it as an accessory (you can buy it in 1º, 5º, and 10º spots). An L-358 is just over $300, and the spot meter accessory is probably another $150 on top of that. So it's just a bit above your price range, but not by a lot.

You will always get a more accurate meter reading using an "incident" meter than you will using a "reflected" meter. Reflected meters have to make an assumption about the average reflectivity of of the target... but the reality is more variable. White targets reflect more. Black targets reflect less, etc. You want to learn how to gauge whether your target maps to more of a "middle gray" or compensate for the fact that the reflectivity is likely indicating more light or less light than you really have so that you can compensate when you take the exposure. When you use a true "incident" meter reading (holding the meter in the subject light) then you don't have to compensate... they measure the light falling directly onto the meter.

 

[2WheelPhoto]

If you send a copy of your registration to BHPHOTO.com as a student you can get a deep discount on Sekonic. I bought one new cheaper than they were going for on craigslist/ebay =)

 

[tirediron]

The Minolta "Flash" series are often a good deal used.

 

[Compaq]

If you send a copy of your registration to BHPHOTO.com as a student you can get a deep discount on Sekonic. I bought one new cheaper than they were going for on craigslist/ebay =)

Would that work even if I'm not an American student? I just feel many of these discounts are for Americans.

 

[2WheelPhoto]

If you send a copy of your registration to BHPHOTO.com as a student you can get a deep discount on Sekonic. I bought one new cheaper than they were going for on craigslist/ebay =)

Would that work even if I'm not an American student? I just feel many of these discounts are for Americans.

Norway should have places that offer the discounts too, the discounts are from the manufacturers directly

 

[BlairWright]

I really like my Seikonic L-358, it's really easy to use and I got mine with the radio trigger which is a huge help. I have the 10 degree spot too, it's handy but I tend to go without in most cases.

 

[Compaq]

The Sekonic L-358 goes for $541 in Norway. I can get it for under half price at eBay...(!)