Help with lightness in B&W photo ..

Discussion in 'C & C Gallery' started by ntz, Feb 17, 2021.

  1. ntz

    ntz No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Hello,

    I have new camera (Fujifilm X100F) and can't resist to it ... I am just shooting B&W to JPGs using the film emulation .. I can't get out of RAWs the same results like film emulation does in-camera with JPGs .. I love it .. I love whole that idea about raw-less shooting .. anyway

    please comment out edits on following two photos .. on first, there is just added exposure and lowered blacks a bit .. on second one are also lightened shadows a bit and more positive exposure added and blacks are lowered even more

    I am trying to find a balance what looks good on internet on usual screens .. wort to say, that I am IT guy and I care for my eyes so I am on my all computers using a low-contrast paper-like profile so I would also like to know what you would suggest with that in mind because perhaps what I see on my screen differs a lot to what you see on your screens

    #1 - slightly positive exposure correction and slightly negative blacks
    [​IMG]
    42753
    by ntz on ThePhotoForum: Film & Digital Photography Forum

    #2 - more positive exposure, more negative blacks and also adjusted shadows to be lighter
    [​IMG]
    42752
    by ntz on ThePhotoForum: Film & Digital Photography Forum

    ps. photos OK to edit :)

    thanks much for your input .. I owe so much to this forum ..

    regards, dan


     
  2. dxqcanada

    dxqcanada Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    What application are you using to edit?
    Your mid-tones are flat, which makes it look muddy.
     
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  3. ntz

    ntz No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Hello, thanks much for your input ... I used in this case just GIMP straight away to edit JPGs from camera with FUJI's film ACROS-R simulation ... I've been only editing the exposure, blacks and on the second one lightened a bit shadows
     
  4. Ysarex

    Ysarex Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    Congrats on the Fuji camera. I also have a couple Fuji cameras and I'm very happy with them.

    Dxqcanada is correct your photos are flat and muddy. They need more contrast. I downloaded your 2nd image and made some adjustments to improve the tone response. I raised the contrast a lot. I got this:

    snow-rooftops.jpg

    Given the lighting in that photo it does beg for processing a raw file. Editing JPEGs is not a great idea.
     
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  5. ntz

    ntz No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    thanks so much ... simply, shortly, I've got it ... appreciated pretty much, this is the priceless kind of the input .. ofc it's matter of "personal tastes", I prefer a natural looking photos so in reality I don't like *that much* your edit but I understand well what you meant with that and I am very very very grateful for it ..

    thank you very much ..

    regards, dan
     
  6. dxqcanada

    dxqcanada Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    To me ... I think my eye/brain would see that scene as below ... I adjusted the tonal curve (toe and shoulder) much Like I would have done with B&W film and print developing.

    upload_2021-2-17_22-34-53.png
     
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  7. ntz

    ntz No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    YES !!! that's it ... I love it ... thank you so much ... would you be so kind and elaborate a bit on your changes ??
     
  8. mjcmt

    mjcmt TPF Supporters Supporting Member

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    When I had my x100t I'd shoot RAW for editing for better results w/ greater dynamic range which yielded better B&W photos. Your second photo actually has a nice low-black look that works on many photos. It you want more pop increase the contrast and sharpness. Think of it this way that a well exposed photo w/ a full dynamic range should have black areas that are pitch black and whites that are pure white and a full range of grays in the middle.

    Here's a quick re-editing your second edit (not the best scenario) by adjusting curves, levels, sharpness, vignetting, and slight crop to reduce clutter in corner using Mac's basic 'Photo' editing software.
    You will need to lighten lower right area w/ your editing program also. If you edit from RAW the greater dynamic range will give you better results in the shadows.
    villlage (1).jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2021
  9. smoke665

    smoke665 TPF Supporters Supporting Member

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    I predominately save my working files as RAW, and occasional as RAW+ (RAW & JPEG), because of the flexibilty in editing. Saving to JPEG in camera places an even greater burden on getting a good exposure. Your subject matter is a good example of the Dynamic Range limitations of the camera.

    In high DR scenes various auto modes, without input from you, your camera will attempt to mininimize blowing the highlights and raising the shadows, resulting in a very flat (lacking contrast) image comprised of only midtones. This is luminosity histogram of your first image.
    image.jpg
    Notice the lack of data in the highlights and shadows. I'm not that familiar with Fuji, but I would think that they have a fairly common adjustment called Exposure Value Compensation. This setting lets you decrease the highlights or increase the shadow exposure.

    Saving as a JPEG makes it even more important to make sure you have a properly exposed file. Your image looks to be under exposed.

    Again I'm not a Fuji user so this may be irrelevant for your model, but this might be something you can use if your intent on saving Jpegs. How to Use Fujifilm's Highlight and Shadow Tones
     
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  10. ntz

    ntz No longer a newbie, moving up!

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  11. smoke665

    smoke665 TPF Supporters Supporting Member

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    @ntz tried to download the RAW file, but computer is updating and hogging bandwidth. I did download your first edit for a few quick adjustments in LR. As I said earlier the image is underexposed, by slightly over 1-1/2 stops. Here is the RGB histogram on the original.
    Capture.JPG
    Note the lack of data in the data both left and right. You don't have a white point or black point in the image. Here is the RGB histogram after adjustments to exposure, contrast, highlights, setting the white & black point, shadow adjustment, clarity, and Dehaze. Dehaze is an interesting adjustment that it adjusts the contrast, but in a kind of 'intelligent' way so that haze in the background gets removed, without increasing the contrast in clear areas in the foreground. Finally a mild contrast curve and you have the following RGB histogram.
    Capture1.JPG

    If I was editing the RAW file this could be improved on but the old computer adage also applies to editing digital images (garbage in garbage out). Please don't take offense I'm not saying the image is garbage, but in the case of a digital image, when you don't fully expose the sensor, you don't capture data. Editing does not create data it only spreads out what you have. Here is a comparison with the adjustments. Left is your original, right is the edit.
    compariso.jpg
     
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  12. ntz

    ntz No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Thank you Smoke ... in my opinion the roof on the right side is not now so obviously shed by a shadow .. shadow is almost diagonal in this image with darker opposite corner (upper-left) .. I will now try to focus on working with RAFs because my initial issue was that I was not able to achieve those in-camera film-like filters ..
     

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