How to find the nodal point

nagoshua

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Im having a lot of trouble stitching my paroramic shots together, ive read about how to find the nodal point but i still cant really understand it, i was wondering if someone could explain it a little bit more simply.
 

Dave_D

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I assume that you already know that the nodal point of the lens is the intersection where the light paths cross. This doesn't help much. What you really need to know is the angle of the light paths from there intersection point so you know how many degrees to turn the camera for the next shot with your respective lens. If you turn it too far, the proportions at either side of the image won't match the middle. To play it safe, I don't go past a third of image overlap between exposures using 50mm and above. If I am using a wider angle( 50mm or less ), I will shoot half frame overlaps. And try shooting vertical because any imperfections are not as noticeable top to bottom as they are when shooting horizontal. The frame edges are much closer to the nodal angle from side to side when shooting vertical giving you less of a chance to cross the angle with you overlap. I hope this helps!
 

RacePhoto

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Im having a lot of trouble stitching my paroramic shots together, ive read about how to find the nodal point but i still cant really understand it, i was wondering if someone could explain it a little bit more simply.

Finding the nodal point may not be your problem. The software you are using might not be a true stitching package that warps and matches the images.

I use Photovista Panorama, just because I own it, and it works. I bought version 2 at Deals for $3.99. You can find it on eBay. You want version 3 or 3.5 (which I have through purchasing an upgrade) 2 works but has some issues with newer computers.

If you can find a copy of MGI photo suite 4, it's included. This software was free with many cameras years ago.

30% is enough overlap, but since digital is virtually free, 50% is fine.

One of my pictures, made from scans of photographs! (just fooling around) Hand Held... what's a nodal point?
http://www.gizex.com/gallery/sports_car_racing/mg01f.htm

Panorama Stitching BB - ask questions, get answers from people who know more than I do.
http://www.iseemedia.com/phpBB2/index.php

Nodal Points - and how to find your nodal point.
http://www.360texas.com/tips/nodalpts.htm

Photovista Software Mfg.
http://www.iseephotovista.com/products/panorama/product_info.html


Another one made hand held, from a boat... using a disposable camera.
sailcent-small.jpg
 

surge

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ah ha,

more panoramic stitching programmes :thumbup:

i've been trying hugin http://hugin.sourceforge.net/

which can stitch panos but also do lots of lovely tricks like correct for perspective/lens distortion and looks quite comprehensive - i've yet to explore all its features

ie. 'estimate parameters for the correction of transverse chromatic abberation' - i'm leaving that one for a rainy day

the website has some good tutorials and best of all - its open source and therefore free to use, lovely.
 

RacePhoto

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ah ha,

more panoramic stitching programmes :thumbup:

i've been trying hugin http://hugin.sourceforge.net/

which can stitch panos but also do lots of lovely tricks like correct for perspective/lens distortion and looks quite comprehensive - i've yet to explore all its features

ie. 'estimate parameters for the correction of transverse chromatic abberation' - i'm leaving that one for a rainy day

the website has some good tutorials and best of all - its open source and therefore free to use, lovely.

What I was trying to get at, and I probably wasn't clear, was that you don't have to know the perfect nodal point to get a good stitch. I made some good ones, hand held, just turning and shooting.

You said it. The software will make more difference, adjusting and warping, if it stitches right.

In my above picture, it's pretty obvious that the exposures aren't matched, and that's why there are light and dark bands. That's my problem and the fact that I was using a cheap disposable camera. :lol:
 

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