How to properly focus on faces when the assist beam is too far on a dark environment.

[jaomul]

Grand job. Fix every problem that anyone asks here by telling them buy a 3000 ish dollar camera like yours so.

There was no quibble until you quibbled

 

[PaulWog]

Grand job. Fix every problem that anyone asks here by telling them buy a 3000 ish dollar camera like yours so.

There was no quibble until you quibbled

What is wrong with you? Get your attitude checked, grow up, etc. You shut down another user's comment by saying "Any camera. The light is separate." He had a very good point: *WHAT* camera is the OP using?

The D7200 has a -3EV focusing capability as well. Or did you not know that? Not all gear costs $3000... my camera cost $2200 by the way.

 

[jaomul]

I didn't shut down any one elses comment, I was continuing the conversation with that person also, making a point that any camera (in case they thought i was talking about a specific model).

I'm done now though

 

[PaulWog]

I didn't shut down any one elses comment, I was continuing the conversation with that person also, making a point that any camera (in case they thought i was talking about a specific model).

I'm done now though

Just trying to narrow things down here. He's doing (what seems to be) paid work after all - gear can matter. I looked into the OP's past comments, he has a 7D MK II. It should focus just as well in low light. Plus, that camera is on the cost level of many prosumer full frames such as my own...

Sure, technique and principles of photography matter. Sometimes shots are impossible, or not worth it, if lighting is not good enough or cannot be manipulated. But gear always comes into play... sometimes not a lot, sometimes hugely... Yes, I would agree that lighting comes first and gear comes second or third or fourth.

 

[IntrepidB]

Thanks to everyone for replying. It seems like some more information might be useful for the discussion:

- The camera is a 5d Mark III
- The assist beam is provided by a Yongnuo 622TX, which creates vertical and horizontal short lines with a lot more intensity than the 430ex II beam.

In most situations, even when is relatively dark, the camera can focus quite well. The problem is more noticeable when the person's face is in a much darker area than the background, like in a room without lights, shooting a person against an open window on a bright day. The 430exII off-camera and the 622TX trigger providing the assist beam, which usually works well in short distances but it's too dim above 100mm.

 

[IntrepidB]

Here is an example (from a time before I had the 70-200mm), shooting with the 85mm against a sunset. These shots were properly focused, but many others (like 30% at this location) were misfocused, and despite being outdoors, the situation was quite similar to what happens now.

With this other unprocessed photo you can see how dark she is when shot against the bright sky without a flash.

 

[PaulWog]

I don't have all the answers, but I do have a couple of questions:

Are you using single-point autofocus? And are you using single-servo autofocus? Have you tried using your center AF point and recomposing? And what metering mode are you using (or are you shooting manual)?

 

[astroNikon]

As mentioned, I've used the flashlight idea a lot and it works.
If you don't take a shot immediately (half button for focus, then shoot) then the camera will try to refocus.
Otherwise use the flashlight, focus, switch to manual to prevent autofocus, then shoot.

FYI, you don't have to point a light into a subjects face, just in their general direction as the added light provides enough to get contrast. Try pointing it to the ground in front of them, or their lower half, or the ceiling.

 

[IntrepidB]

The problem with the flashlight is that it will require another hand (which is not exactly easy when holding a 70-200mm 2.8) or an assistant.

And PaulWog, I use the single (center) point AF and recompose. I normally use one-shot AF, shooting manual mode.