HSS. Why?

At 1/1 I can sync to 1/4000sec
 
I don't understand the antagonistic nature of some members here... I gave a simple answer to:
You're shooting something in daylight at f/1.8 (for thin DOF) and 1/2000 sec. You need some fill. How else are you going to get it if you don't have something like HSS?
I said "a ND filter". And then out come the pitchforks.

Obviously HSS is a far better solution, and I use it all the time. I just wish my monoblocks had it though...


Right triggers and mono's can if you use supersync or hypersync.

I posted about this in another thread. I use Pocket Wizards and the 5d MkII only works up until 1/250 before the black bar starts showing when you turn it up.


Not sure about canon but the slower the flash duration at full power the better it works. I haven't used it above 1/4000s.

It’s not brand specific, its shutter specific.
 
I don't understand the antagonistic nature of some members here... I gave a simple answer to:
You're shooting something in daylight at f/1.8 (for thin DOF) and 1/2000 sec. You need some fill. How else are you going to get it if you don't have something like HSS?
I said "a ND filter". And then out come the pitchforks.

Obviously HSS is a far better solution, and I use it all the time. I just wish my monoblocks had it though...


Right triggers and mono's can if you use supersync or hypersync.

I posted about this in another thread. I use Pocket Wizards and the 5d MkII only works up until 1/250 before the black bar starts showing when you turn it up.


Not sure about canon but the slower the flash duration at full power the better it works. I haven't used it above 1/4000s.

It’s not brand specific, its shutter specific.


Sorry, I re read it and realized I typed a half assed response. I have never shot canon and have heard people have issues with the 5d2 and sync speed. I shoot nikon. But I will also say that smaller sensors are supposed to be better. I have had no banding with a d90 and with the same wireless and flash set up on a d700 I will have some. So I opted for a couple I flashes with longer flash durations and problem solved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don't understand the antagonistic nature of some members here... I gave a simple answer to:
You're shooting something in daylight at f/1.8 (for thin DOF) and 1/2000 sec. You need some fill. How else are you going to get it if you don't have something like HSS?
I said "a ND filter". And then out come the pitchforks.

Obviously HSS is a far better solution, and I use it all the time. I just wish my monoblocks had it though...


Right triggers and mono's can if you use supersync or hypersync.

I posted about this in another thread. I use Pocket Wizards and the 5d MkII only works up until 1/250 before the black bar starts showing when you turn it up.


Not sure about canon but the slower the flash duration at full power the better it works. I haven't used it above 1/4000s.

It’s not brand specific, its shutter specific.


Sorry, I re read it and realized I typed a half assed response. I have never shot canon and have heard people have issues with the 5d2 and sync speed. I shoot nikon. But I will also say that smaller sensors are supposed to be better. I have had no banding with a d90 and with the same wireless and flash set up on a d700 I will have some. So I opted for a couple I flashes with longer flash durations and problem solved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And there’s ways to cheat this. I posted it earlier in this thread or another thread on a very similar topic. But shutter type also matters. Older DSLRs (mainly Nikon, as IIRC Canon only had one like this) had electronic hybrid shutters (D70?) which even though they were rated with an x-sync, would be able to shoot at their max shutter speed without getting the black bar.

I’ve always wondered why this technology wasn’t continued, especially since a company like Fuji would instead opt for a built in ND. I know it was for different reasons, but x sync is something that photographer constantly try to work around even though x sync today is much greater than it apparently was in the past. 1/60 used to be an actually maximum sync speed for some SLRs from what I remember reading.
 
I don't understand the antagonistic nature of some members here... I gave a simple answer to:
I said "a ND filter". And then out come the pitchforks.

Obviously HSS is a far better solution, and I use it all the time. I just wish my monoblocks had it though...


Right triggers and mono's can if you use supersync or hypersync.

I posted about this in another thread. I use Pocket Wizards and the 5d MkII only works up until 1/250 before the black bar starts showing when you turn it up.


Not sure about canon but the slower the flash duration at full power the better it works. I haven't used it above 1/4000s.

It’s not brand specific, its shutter specific.


Sorry, I re read it and realized I typed a half assed response. I have never shot canon and have heard people have issues with the 5d2 and sync speed. I shoot nikon. But I will also say that smaller sensors are supposed to be better. I have had no banding with a d90 and with the same wireless and flash set up on a d700 I will have some. So I opted for a couple I flashes with longer flash durations and problem solved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And there’s ways to cheat this. I posted it earlier in this thread or another thread on a very similar topic. But shutter type also matters. Older DSLRs (mainly Nikon, as IIRC Canon only had one like this) had electronic hybrid shutters (D70?) which even though they were rated with an x-sync, would be able to shoot at their max shutter speed without getting the black bar.

I’ve always wondered why this technology wasn’t continued, especially since a company like Fuji would instead opt for a built in ND. I know it was for different reasons, but x sync is something that photographer constantly try to work around even though x sync today is much greater than it apparently was in the past. 1/60 used to be an actually maximum sync speed for some SLRs from what I remember reading.


Yes, I have an older d40 that can sync at whatever speed you are able to get your wireless set up too. It's a hybrid electronic shutter . I know it's a CCD sensor and not sure if that affects it but I wouldn't mind a higher resolution camera with the same cheat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
honestly, sometimes I look at old pictures I took with my d40 and come away still impressed.
 

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