I have a wedding I am shooting with a friend, and need some setting advice.

[HaleyMadison]

I am shooting with a Canon 50D, And I am using my 28-135mm and 50 mm f/1.8.
What are some good settings I could use involving changing my aperture and ISO?

Thank you so much to whoever replies,

 

[HaleyMadison]

and shutter speed

 

[NedM]

A fast shutter, a fairly low ISO and a medium aperture setting.

I can't give you specific settings because I don't know what the lighting situation will like.

 

[shefjr]

There are no "good settings". There is no way to generalize what settings you should be using. The settings you will need will all depend on the available light at the wedding.
I mean no offense but, you do not sound from the above posts, like you are at all prepared to be involved in wedding photography. There is so much more than "good settings" to photography. I'm not going to sit here and pontificate my thoughts onto you. I will just say, good luck and I hope your client gets what they are paying for.

 

[EIngerson]

shefjr is right. The proper exposure for the environment you will be in are the proper settings you need. If you have access, go to the place you will be shooting with another person and shoot some test shots to get a feel for your settings ahead of time. That's the only way to be prepared.


I use AV most of the time, but I can promise you, you will need to go manual at some point during a wedding. Change up settings and modes on your pre-shoot to get some flexibility.

Good luck, I do NOT envy you. lol

Eric

 

[ronlane]

As shefjr stated, it is dependent upon the situation and the lighting. The variable aperture of the 28-135mm is going to make things tough in low light situations. So are you the second shooter to your friend, or are you going just to watch and learn? Has your friend shot weddings before? If so, then I would spend time talking with them about equipment and what they expect of you. Do they have backup lenses that you could use?

 

[HaleyMadison]

I mean I usually have settings saved.
I was just opened to any other suggestions.

I never really had a problem with a wedding before.. maybe I won't today.
I appreciate all the feedback although, MOST of it was negative.

It's okay, you live and you learn.

And every photographer starts out somewhere..
I am sure not everyone started off with a really nice camera and a wide variety of lenses.

 

[EIngerson]

I mean I usually have settings saved.
I was just opened to any other suggestions.

I never really had a problem with a wedding before.. maybe I won't today.
I appreciate all the feedback although, MOST of it was negative.

It's okay, you live and you learn.

And every photographer starts out somewhere..
I am sure not everyone started off with a really nice camera and a wide variety of lenses.

I don't think anyone was trying to be negative Haley. Just answering the question honestly is all. Please don't take our responses as talking down or anything like that, that's absolutely not our intent. Good luck and have fun.

and welcome to TPF.

Eric

 

[HaleyMadison]

Anyone who wants to view my work, feel free.

I just have a few posted on this blog:

Haley Madison Photography

 

[Derrel]

I am one who believes in making 400 ISO the starting point for non-flash photos indoors, and also for bounce flash photos indoors, I usually suggest ISO 500 or ISO 640 as the "NORMAL" ISO value for bounced flash. For a number of reasons, but basically because starting at ISO 400, and not 100, and not 200, means there's already a two-stop, or at the least, a one-stop "safety cushion" that gives extra depth of field, extra room for error in focusing, and also makes the ambient light register more on flash shots and, even more-importantly, allows the flash to do its work without exhausting the batteries so quickly.

Since the 50D is a crop-frame camera, the 28-135mm zoom will give you "normal" to telephoto effective focal length settings, so, once again, ISO 400 is your friend indoors.

If you have a flash unit, I would shoot most of my flash shots at f/5 or f/5.6 on closer-range shots. Be aware that in big rooms, a flash does not "carry" all that far.

The best tip I can give is this" you have a d-slr, so you can SEE what is working immediately. Figure out what works best for the specific room or venue, meaning ISO, general focal length, and general lighting, like say, bounce flash upward at 30 degrees or whatever, and then work that successful pattern over and over. If for example, there's a nice, light-colored wall, and you're assigned to shoot casual posed shots, maybe bounce the on-camera flash off of that wall, and have 2's and 3's and 4-person groups form loose standing groups, and then shoot 20, 25 groups ALL in the same area where you can get what I call "a good bounce" off of the wall.


Use the d-slr as an asset. Get the ISO up to 400, or a bit higher, and WORK IT!!!!!!!!

 

[kathyt]

^^^Diddo what Derrel said. It looks like you have an eye for composition, but weddings are very difficult because you need to know how to shoot in these difficult lighting situations ahead of time. I would get to know the venue really well. Try shooting during the time you will be the day of, and get to know your flash inside and out. Take models with you to practice on so you can make sure you are lighting them properly.

 

[shefjr]

My comments were not negative. My comment stated fact in that no one can tell you what the "good settings" should be. It's all about the light at the venue only you will be at. When reading posts where people ask about "good settings" it is concerning because in my mind that means someone may not understand light and how to use it. Again as I said in my original post to you I meant no offense. I hope you stick around TPF and use it to your advantage. People are brutally honest here so just be prepared. Most here sincerely do want to help and written word can sometimes come across really harsh. So take everyone's posts with a healthy grain of salt.
Sincerely good luck in your up and coming wedding event.

 

[ChrisHeathcote]

With regards to ISO, use whatever it takes to get the shot. Noise is something that photographers worry about, I have never known a non -tog complain about a noisy image, however I know plenty that have moaned about blurry ones

 

[bratkinson]

As has been stated several times above, there is no such thing as 'a group of settings' for this situation, or that situation, or any other situation. Even the same venue on two different days or even day/night may be different due to sunlight, or lack thereof, coming through the windows.

As Derrel stated above, use the LCD to look at the results of your shots...perhaps one in every 5 or so. If they're too dark, open the aperture, crank the ISO, slow down the shutter, or get more light (flash...preferably not the popup). Also remember when shooting with your 50mm in the f1.8 to about f3.5 range, your DOF may become surprisingly thin causing some people in a group shot to be in focus, and others, not.

Taking people pictures, your shutter speed will have to be in the range of 1/125th or faster to stop subject movement blur. I've been known to shoot as slow as 1/20th due to terribly low light, but my non-blurred keeper rate was in the 1 in 20 range or worse. While that may be 'reasonable' for repeatable, candid pictures such as at the reception, the bride and entourage walking down the aisle or making their vows is not repeatable, so you'll need to keep the shutter speed up in the church.

Lastly, don't take months and months to get the post processing done. Plan to allocate at least 15-20 hours (at least I would) to do the bulk of the post processing you want to get done and print up some 4x6s for them to get an idea of what shots they'd like to have any additional processing/enlargements/wedding book/etc done, then do it.