I have two questions

[Compaq]

1. When it comes to shooting RAW, we can "correct" the exposure by three stops in the editor (at least in elements 9). If I find myself in low light conditions, that being not dark, but not enough light for hand held photography (that of course depends of the focal length of the lens). Let's say I shoot raw, and, intentionally, take underexposed pictures (use a faster shutter speed) so that I can hold the camera. I then correct the exposure in the editor.

I mean, how much detail is lost by this approach? Can it work as a "last resort" tactic just to "get that documented"?

2. When taking panoramic shots of moving cars and such things that aren't far away, it makes sense to me to use a wide angle lens. I can then use a slower shutter speed hand held which gives me a nice background blur even if the subject is moving quite slowly. Am I correct? One can always crop the images to get the composition one seeks.

Or am I completely nuts here?

-Compaq

 

[Trever1t]

I have found you can make minor adjustment in exposure without losing too much detail, maybe 1/3 stop.

 

[Big Mike]

1. When it comes to shooting RAW, we can "correct" the exposure by three stops in the editor (at least in elements 9). If I find myself in low light conditions, that being not dark, but not enough light for hand held photography (that of course depends of the focal length of the lens). Let's say I shoot raw, and, intentionally, take underexposed pictures (use a faster shutter speed) so that I can hold the camera. I then correct the exposure in the editor.

I mean, how much detail is lost by this approach? Can it work as a "last resort" tactic just to "get that documented"?

You can't really correct exposure...all you can do is make the pixels brighter...and as you do that, you lower the quality of the image. Probably the most noticeable thing will be increased digital noise....especially if you shot at a high ISO. Coincidentally, if you just shoot at an even higher ISO in the first place, but expose properly (not needing correction), you will likely end up with a better image.

Obviously, motion blur can ruin your image. So when you absolutely need to use a faster shutter speed (and your aperture is at it's max), turning up your ISO should be the first solution. Underexposing and planing to fix it in post, should only be your last resort.

 

[ChadHillPhoto]

Question 1: Yes, as a last resort or just to document...at that point do anything you can.
(Plus if you turn such images to BW the noise looks like old school grain from ISO 3200 film ..which can be a very cool effect)

Question 2: Yes, however using a tri pod with a rotating head will help you pan smoothly along with the car and will result in more in focus cars and nice background blurs.


Good luck, I hope you post pictures if you try these!

 

[Compaq]

Question 1: Yes, as a last resort or just to document...at that point do anything you can.
(Plus if you turn such images to BW the noise looks like old school grain from ISO 3200 film ..which can be a very cool effect)

Question 2: Yes, however using a tri pod with a rotating head will help you pan smoothly along with the car and will result in more in focus cars and nice background blurs.


Good luck, I hope you post pictures if you try these!

I was going to do a underexposing-raw-editing test, but I just found out I forgot to pack the usb-cable to the card reader Better have them send it by mail asap!

I would be interested in seeing the results as well. Must have that cable, though! :thumbdown:

 

[KmH]

Fully half the luminosity data for a digital photo is captured in the brighest stop of exposure your image sensor is capable of carturing. That is why digital photos are exposed for the highlights. (Film was expose for the shadows).

When you purposely underexpose a digital photo you don't even use brighest stop of your image sensor can capture and you induce a lot more image noise while also reducing the editing overhead you have available.

I recommend you read the book Real World Camera Raw with Adobe Photoshop CS5

though your Elements 9 has a de-featured veersion of Camera Raw the book will still explain Raw capture in detail.