I need a better lens than the kit

MKamran · Jan 4, 2015

I have toddlers at home and have a tough time taking photos indoor especially in AV mode cause there is blurring and ghosting... i have a canon 70D and i am pretty much a beginner...

i have a kit lens 18-135 and a 85mm 1.8 lens.

please can you advise on what lens would be better for moving subjects since i want to capture these special moments! I want a ZOOM lens.

what are your recommendations experts?

pixmedic · Jan 4, 2015

instead of a faster zoom, which may or may not be enough to properly expose indoors (depending on ambient light) you may want to invest in a flash instead.
you have two really nice lenses already, and properly utilized, a flash will let you use the 18-135 indoors better than a faster zoom that may only get you a stop or so better aperture size.

if you are set on a faster zoom, i would look at Tamrons 17-50 f/2.8 or (since you have a DX camera) Sigmas 18-35 f/1.8 for indoor shots.

matthias bader · Jan 4, 2015

With the 85mm 1.8 you already have a great lens for that purpose

The fast aperture should help you to avoid blurred pictures. But maybe it's a bit to much tele on the Crop-Sensor.

If you invest in something with an aperture of 2.8 your on a good side. Per example a Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8? With the Crop you should have a pretty good range, the aperture is fast and you have a zoom

It's not that cheap, but the Tamron 17-50 surely is a good alternativ to it - and probably a cheaper one

pixmedic · Jan 4, 2015

the disadvantage to only going with a faster zoom is....
when you have poor light, you are forced to shoot wide open and hope its enough.
you lose the ability to get more DOF by shooting with a smaller aperture and a flash.

the advantage to a faster zoom is....
you have the ability to shoot at a larger aperture across the entire focal range when you need it.

ideally, (and especially indoors where you can bounce) the optimal solution is a fast zoom lens paired with a flash.

KmH · Jan 4, 2015

Yep. Use a flash unit.
The short duration of the flash of light provides a motion stopping effect the longer shutter speeds needed to shoot inside can't provide.

A hot shoe flash unit's flash has a duration of about 1/1000 when used at full power.
If the power level is turned down the flash duration gets even shorter providing even more motion stopping capability.
Nikon's SB-700 flash unit has a flash duration of about 1/2500 at the 1/4 power setting.

There is an added learning curve when you do flash photography.

wfooshee · Jan 4, 2015

Don't use AV mode for flash photography. The camera assumes you want to use the flash as fill, and tries to get a good exposure of ambient light, usually meaning very long shutter speeds.

If you want to control aperture, use Manual mode and set the at 1/60 at the slowest.

If you're not doing flash photography, just Av indoors, keep in mind that in low light, the metered exposure may require a long shutter. 1/10 doesn't sound like much time, but moving objects or camera motion will blur the image. Raise your ISO or go to a flash to compensate for low light.

Buckster · Jan 4, 2015

In your described situation, I would shoot in shutter priority instead of aperture priority. Get the shutter up to 1/60 or faster, open up the aperture as much as you can without losing too much depth of field (DOF = how much is in focus) and don't be afraid to crank up the ISO to compensate - that's what it's there for.

The graininess (which is noise) generated by higher ISO numbers will only really be apparent when zoomed in, which doesn't mean much in the scheme of things. That's called "pixel-peeping" and you're not obligated to do it and it can really screw you up by making you think the photos are bad when they're not. You don't satisfactorily watch TV by putting your nose against the screen and looking at the individual dots, so don't do it with your photos either. View your photos at a regular full viewing size, and they'll look fine. If there's really still too much noise, get a noise suppression software. There are many to choose from and they all do a pretty decent job.

Ideally, get interested in learning to use a flash, especially an off-camera flash. That will give you total control over all aspects: Shutter, aperture, ISO.

Designer · Jan 4, 2015

Another option is the AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G.

It is a fast lens, small, and if you purchase used, fairly affordable. The reason I am suggesting that is because of the deeper depth of field in a shorter lens. At least it's another option.

Personally, I like using a flash, and it is usually on my camera. I just turn it on, turn on the camera, aim the flash up or sideways, and fire.

MKamran · Jan 5, 2015

thank you so much dear experts for the valuable information.. NOW I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION!! there are zillions of flashes out there in the market.... macro ring lite, twin light, speed light.... i am totally confused again

Canon U.S.A. : Consumer & Home Office : Speedlite Flash Lineup My camera is the EOS 70D and i would appreciate if i get your advise on what FLASH to buy please. YES, i will buy a used flash but which one?

Buckster · Jan 5, 2015

MKamran said:
thank you so much dear experts for the valuable information.. NOW I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION!! there are zillions of flashes out there in the market.... macro ring lite, twin light, speed light.... i am totally confused again

Canon U.S.A. : Consumer & Home Office : Speedlite Flash Lineup My camera is the EOS 70D and i would appreciate if i get your advise on what FLASH to buy please. YES, i will buy a used flash but which one?

First, save yourself a LOT of money and get one of the Yongnuo flashes, rather than a name-brand Canon flash. Many of us have had both, and the Canon really has nothing more than a much bigger price tag attached to the official Canon logo printed on it.

For someone still learning and just starting out with off-camera flash, I would recommend you get one with TTL capability. Though it's not strictly necessary and will add a little bit to the cost, it will help you get better exposures until you get a better handle on it through learning and practice. You'll also want to get a set of triggers. Yongnuo will again be a cost-saving solution. If you go with a TTL flash, go with TTL triggers as well.

Do a bit more research and ask questions, especially about TTL, before you decide which models of flash and trigger to choose from. There are dozens of threads here on this forum and elsewhere that go into all the particulars, so a bit of searching and reading should work well to acquaint you with the particulars. If you still have questions after that, feel free to ask, as there are a LOT of people here with a LOT of experience with it all.

You'll also want a crash-course in how to use it, and for that, you can't really beat the free crash course provided by David Hobby at Strobist. Just look for the "Lighting 101" and "Lighting 102" links on the right side of the page, and start going through them.

MKamran · Jan 5, 2015

che thanks!! now the question is what sort of a trigger would i require?? I have a trillion questions cause i'm a beginner so kindly bear with me.. TC

Buckster · Jan 6, 2015

MKamran said:
che thanks!! now the question is what sort of a trigger would i require?? I have a trillion questions cause i'm a beginner so kindly bear with me.. TC

You don't need much from a radio trigger set, other than TTL IF you choose to go with a TTL flash.

The YN 565EX TTL flash is a fine flash that works very well. 2 of my 6 speedlights are of this model. I've had and used them for over 3 years so far without a single problem or issue. Here's an Amazon link to it, though there are other places where it can be bought, and I think ebay is the very least expensive: Amazon.com : Yongnuo YN-565 EX TTL Flash Speedlite Canon 5D II 7D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 350D, 400D, 450D : On Camera Shoe Mount Flashes : Camera & Photo

To trigger it and keep TTL connectivity, you need a pair of triggers. You'll need one for the camera, and one for each flash. Assuming you're going to start with one flash then, you need two triggers. They are transceivers, which means that either one will work on either the camera end or the flash end.

Amazon has a variety of them, some older models, some newer with screens on them to show you exactly what the settings are, which is handy and not much more expensive. They also work in combination with one another. You can buy individuals units, which is handy if you add another flash later, or pairs, or even groups of triggers in packages. Generally, the more you buy at a time the more you save, though it's not a lot.

All you need to make sure of when picking them out is that they're for a Canon camera, and that they're TTL capable, if you decide to go with TTL, that is.

Have a look at the offerings on Amazon here: Amazon.com: yongnuo TTL trigger Canon

Beyond those basic electronics, you may very well want a stand or clamp to hold the flash in any position and be able to aim it, you may want to get an umbrella and umbrella holder, or a softbox or scrim diffuser. There are a TON of ways to hold and modify lights to control the output, and for decisions regarding that stuff, what to get and what to use and why, you REALLY need to go through the course at Strobist. It's way too much to cover here.

pixmedic · Jan 6, 2015

I have have a bunch of the yongnuo 568EX flashes with the 622n radio triggers and love them. They have yet to give me any problems.

sm4him · Jan 6, 2015

Some folks here are already giving you great advice on the equipment issue. The Yongnuo flashes are a great lower-cost alternative; I have one and plans to add a couple more this year.

Once you've picked your flash, I'd suggest you go HERE and start reading. Strobist.com is a great site anyway, but their Lighting 101 series was very helpful to me when I was first trying to figure out how to start doing flash photography.