A couple of comments...
The ability to hold a camera steady is a "learned" thing. There are videos that demonstrate good camera holding technique, but the basics should make sense if you thinking about it.
Part of being steady is knowing how to stand such that your own body is steady. Take a wide "baseball" stance ... and do not lean forward (or sideways or any other direction). This puts your center of mass directly over your feet. If you lean, your center of mass is off to one side and now your muscles have to fight to keep you upright. That not only leads to fatigue ... you will have more shake.
Also think about how your camera is held. If your arms & elbows are out to your side (think "chicken wings") then think about this as an engineering structure ... gravity wants to pull the camera "down" but the support is going ... "sideways"? If you want a stronger structure, support the camera from underneath with your elbows tucked in to your stomach. Now you have a very strong brace to support the camera. The controls are typically operating with your right had, so use your left-hand to support the weight of the camera on your palm (and your elbow is braced on your stomach).
Use the viewfinder ... not the live view screen. When you use the viewfinder, the camera is resting against your face and that's another point of stabilization.
If there's something around that you can use as extra bracing ... use it. When you see a photographer leaning on a wall or a support column while shooting ... they're not being lazy, they're using a solid object to brace themselves to reduce any chance of camera movement.
Doing this will help quite a bit in terms of how low you can take the shutter speed and still get a solid shot.
Also keep in mind that the minimum shutter speed you can get away with changes based on the focal length of the lens. Ultra-wide lenses (e.g. think 10mm focal length) are extremely forgiving and don't require much in the way of stabilization. Ultra-long lenses (e.g. think 600mm focal length) are extremely UN-forgiving.
Lastly ... I'm hard pressed to think of a popular camera brand that doesn't incorporate image stabilization into their cameras in one way or another. Some cameras have "in body image stabilization" (aka "IBIS"). Other use "in lens" image stabilization ... with the idea being that the stabilization is better tuned to the nuances of that specific lens.
If you're thinking of any popular brand ... Nikon, Canon, Sony, etc. then you probably don't have to fear the lack of image stabilization.
If it's a Nikon camera, check to see if the lens has the letters "VR" in the name. (vibration reduction)
If it's a Canon camera, check to see if the lens has the letters "IS" in the name. (image stabilization)
If it's a Sigma lens, check to see if the lens has the letters "OS" in the name. (optical stabilization)
etc.
Pretty much everybody has something ... they change up what they call it.