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Is this Lens sharp ??

Thanks psran. As I was told and learned for my self, the key is getting close as possible. The way I look at it,if my subject doesn't fill a good portion in the frame looking through the finder then its to far and probably not worth shooting. I am not sure about a TC on that lens as jaomul pointed out the downside of using one.300mm was never enough reach for me but a few occasion that didn't require massive cropping.

From looking at some off your images they look a tad under exposed,that with high iso noise and excessive cropping will destroy IQ.

I have been reading reviews on Web, according to most users the IQ doesn't degrade much with a 1.4 TC but if you look at my images even 1.4x would not be enough. I have come to realize that I cannot fill the frame at 300mm unless I am around 10-15 feet away from a bird which would be a skill in itself to get that close.Being a poor hobbyist I can't afford a Long Zoom lens in 500-600mm range.

Regarding under exposure , I was using Exposure compensation of +0.7 and I had to keep a Shutter speed of 1/1500 so there was no way to avoid High Iso

Which lens are you using right now and how close do you need to get to fill the frame?
 
The reach rate went up yes but my overall keeper rate went up as I learn exposure better and keeping an eye on lighting changes,back light vs my subject light exposing to the right. when needed. I wish it was that simple as a lens change but reach does definitely help. I just got the sigma a few weeks ago. I got quite a few shots from my canon 70-200 f/4L as well.
 
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A lot of the photos you posted are under exposed (dark).

Photographers that specialize in BIF (birds-in-flight) shots often use a focal length of 600 mm and a gimbal tripod head.
The only trouble is 600 mm prime lenses sell for $10,000+.

There are some less expensive alternatives, and you need more focal length than 300 mm:
$900 - Sigma 150-500mm f/5-6.3 AF APO DG OS HSM Telephoto Zoom Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
And Tamron has a new 150-600 mm lens - http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...s-new-tamron-150-600mm-f-5-6-3-poping-up.html
 
You may not want to get overly concerned with the idea of filling the frame. Yes the closer the better in most situations, but the reality is that it's not often possible and you could drive yourself nuts trying to obtain it all the time.

Get the longest lens you can afford and learn it along with your camera. Learn enough about your subjects and the time of day when they are most active/available in the best light. Learn to stalk, lure or sit patiently in camo or a blind.

Personally, I think the most important thing is to enjoy the whole process.

Check this out: Secrets of Digital Bird Photography





Take a look at this site. Lots of great information.
 
Good advice Jaca. The only thing I will add is,don't get frustrated. I know its easer said then done but don't worry you will get good ones even with the 300mm. Be the hunter and not the haunted.
 
The reach rate went up yes but my overall keeper rate went up as I learn exposure better and keeping an eye on lighting changes,back light vs my subject light exposing to the right. when needed. I wish it was that simple as a lens change but reach does definitely help. I just got the sigma a few weeks ago. I got quite a few shots from my canon 70-200 f/4L as well.

A lot of the photos you posted are under exposed (dark).

Photographers that specialize in BIF (birds-in-flight) shots often use a focal length of 600 mm and a gimbal tripod head.
The only trouble is 600 mm prime lenses sell for $10,000+.

There are some less expensive alternatives, and you need more focal length than 300 mm:
$900 - Sigma 150-500mm f/5-6.3 AF APO DG OS HSM Telephoto Zoom Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
And Tamron has a new 150-600 mm lens - http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/photography-equipment-products/350711-first-reviews-new-tamron-150-600mm-f-5-6-3-poping-up.html

Got some pretty good advice from Dark Shadow, KmH and Jacaranda. That link given by Jacaranda is excellent , I am gonna spend some days with it.

Another thing which Derrel had posted but I missed somehow is about weather condition. Yes it was a bit Hazy day and that is clearly showing up in pics, being a noob I was not paying much attention to weather but I finally am seeing it now
 
Good advice Jaca. The only thing I will add is,don't get frustrated. I know its easer said then done but don't worry you will get good ones even with the 300mm. Be the hunter and not the haunted.

Pretty encouraging words, let's see how it goes
 
Good advice Jaca. The only thing I will add is,don't get frustrated. I know its easer said then done but don't worry you will get good ones even with the 300mm. Be the hunter and not the haunted.

No doubt. Well, no doubt you will get frustrated :lmao:. Just let that be part of the fun and challenge.

Isn't it great when you think you should have a bunch of winners and then get home to only get finger cramps from all the delete delete delete delete :banghead:
 
True that. Sometime's when I review some on the LCD preview they look good until I get home and view them on the computer and there craparola. I thought I had some BIF a few times,ok maybe more then a few times and had nothing but tree branches.:lmao: Still, I never delete in camera just in case there is a good one.
 
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Go at the right time of day to get good light and drop that shutter to 1/1000 to get the ISO down and don't underexpose. Bringing up an underexposed picture in post will just increase noise. What are you using for a body ?

And camo really does help :thumbup:

I just started last year and when I look back at those early picture now I just laugh, they are really that bad lol
 

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