ISO 400 with ISO 50 film?

jophassa said:
Yeah, but what happens if you are in a situation when you have to?

What i mean is if you buy 36 exposures, you cant be sure that for the whole time you are taking pics you will need ISO 50.
That's why it's wise to have more than one body.
 
It's preferable to standardize on a specific speed rating and development protocol for each B&W film you use. There should then be very few surprises in the appearance of the negatives.

The best solution, if you are going to be using a lot of B&W film [say 1000 frames/year or so] is to go bulk-load. You can then set up your cassettes with whatever number of frames you consider optimal. Developing B&W film is a piece of cake. Just maintain time and temperature.
 
ok so it is basically out with the old manual as soon as my 123a batteries arrive for my EOS 3000 (£3 off ebay as opposed to £12 in shops!!!!!).

It is a dream to use compared to the A-1 and when i get the FD lens to EOS body adapter there is nothing stopping me except for....money. darn. i really need a job.
 
jophassa said:
PP, it is all manual. Not sure about the EOS 3000, though.

All EOS cameras have automatic film wind. As far as I know, none of the Rebel series (which I believe the 3000 is--they give names to the US versions for some reason) have the option to leave the film leader out. The Elan7 series (EOS 30V/ EOS 33V), at least, does. If you're careful and precise about loading your film then the Elan has no problem with overlapping frames, but spacing out an extra frame is still a good idea. Film is cheap, right?

With the A1, you'll definately want to space out an extra frame when you reload, even if you're careful. If you're not so careful, then two might be a good idea. Try it! If you get two frames overlapping, then you know you need to space out an extra one. I doubt it'd be necessary, but you never know.

With the A1, when you're winding the film back up, you should feel the tension on the crank suddenly release as you near complete rewind and the film leader pops out of the slot in the take-up spool. When this happens, stop rewinding, pop the back and take out the roll. The leader will still be sticking way out of the film canister, but that portion already got exposed when you loaded the film, and it's better to have too much than too little. If you feel the need, you can turn the canister's spool manually to leave less leader hanging out. Make sure you have a film can handy to store the roll; if you're loading another roll into the camera, then you should have one on hand.
 

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