Kodak Tmax P3200

[LivingstonF4]

I recently shot a roll of 35mm Kodak Tmax p3200 with my Nikon f4. I set my asa/iso to 3200 on the camera and allowed the in-camera metering to tell me where to set it for exposure.

My question is... Should I have had the DarkRoom push it a couple of stops? I ask this because most of my images came in underexposed but I did shoot the whole roll at night and maybe my metering choice wasn't good for what I was shooting. Some had bright lights in frame and maybe that threw my metering off.

Thanks in advance and as a background. I have only been shooting film for almost a year.

 

[jcdeboever]

I have shot it only at 800 (what its rated) and developed in Tmax developer. At 800, it metered well, so I suppose if you didn't carefully meter the scene at 3200, it could throw off the overall exposure.

At 800 ISO in camera, I shot a roll and developed in Tmax developer off the data sheet at 800, 1600, and 3200. The best results I got were shooting at 800 and developing at 3200.

In a scene such as you described, I would have probably spot metered the subject, exposure locked, re-composed, shoot. So yes, I would have told the lab to push 2 stops.

 

[LivingstonF4]

I have shot it only at 800 (what its rated) and developed in Tmax developer. At 800, it metered well, so I suppose if you didn't carefully meter the scene at 3200, it could throw off the overall exposure.

At 800 ISO in camera, I shot a roll and developed in Tmax developer off the data sheet at 800, 1600, and 3200. The best results I got were shooting at 800 and developing at 3200.

In a scene such as you described, I would have probably spot metered the subject, exposure locked, re-composed, shoot. So yes, I would have told the lab to push 2 stops.

Hey, I appreciate the feedback. Not knowing it was rated for 800 caused some issues but I believe the spot metering tip would have been the best for my situations. I will give it another shot down the road. Thanks again!

 

[webestang64]

I would check with the lab first. I own a pro black-n-white lab here in St. Louis and any 3200 is treated as 3200 because that is what is on the DX code. So if shot at 3200 the "normal" process is set at a 2 stop push.

Also I have found that shooting at around 1200-2000 gave me my best results in daylight.

BTW I have pushed this film to 25000 setting with good results.

 

[LivingstonF4]

I would check with the lab first. I own a pro black-n-white lab here in St. Louis and any 3200 is treated as 3200 because that is what is on the DX code. So if shot at 3200 the "normal" process is set at a 2 stop push.

Also I have found that shooting at around 1200-2000 gave me my best results in daylight.

BTW I have pushed this film to 25000 setting with good results.

Thanks, I am thinking this mostly was at my fault of metering incorectly for what I wanted. Joplin Mo myself.

 

[webestang64]

I would check with the lab first. I own a pro black-n-white lab here in St. Louis and any 3200 is treated as 3200 because that is what is on the DX code. So if shot at 3200 the "normal" process is set at a 2 stop push.

Also I have found that shooting at around 1200-2000 gave me my best results in daylight.

BTW I have pushed this film to 25000 setting with good results.

Thanks, I am thinking this mostly was at my fault of metering incorectly for what I wanted. Joplin Mo myself.

Welcome fellow Missouri'n to the site. If you make it up to St. Lou. stop into Schiller's Camera and say Hi......

 

[Mike Drone]

I have a quick inquiry. If shooting and developing 3200, does the developing time help the exposure? What I mean is 100 can develop in +- 3 min but 3200 can be +- 20 min in the chemistry. Does the time stay the same if pushing or pulling 800 - 25000? Does having this information help him have correct exposure. I understand completely about locking the exposure and possibly getting a light meter. Just wondering if the development time would help or interfere with his experience. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[JBPhotog]

It's been a long while since I processed any film but typically pushing means a longer time in the developer stage. There are lots of variables, for example a studio I worked in circa 1980's always shot Ektachrome 100 and push processed it 1/3 of a stop. This compressed the contrast very slightly and cleaned up the whites.

 

[webestang64]

I have a quick inquiry. If shooting and developing 3200, does the developing time help the exposure? What I mean is 100 can develop in +- 3 min but 3200 can be +- 20 min in the chemistry. Does the time stay the same if pushing or pulling 800 - 25000? Does having this information help him have correct exposure. I understand completely about locking the exposure and possibly getting a light meter. Just wondering if the development time would help or interfere with his experience. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum!

This might help.
3200 PDF......... https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/products/F4001.pdf

 

[Mike Drone]

I have a quick inquiry. If shooting and developing 3200, does the developing time help the exposure? What I mean is 100 can develop in +- 3 min but 3200 can be +- 20 min in the chemistry. Does the time stay the same if pushing or pulling 800 - 25000? Does having this information help him have correct exposure. I understand completely about locking the exposure and possibly getting a light meter. Just wondering if the development time would help or interfere with his experience. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum!

This might help.
3200 PDF......... https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/products/F4001.pdf

Thanks =]