Landscape shots not working out :(

dEARlEADER

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No reason to fight about a post I have made.

Since I only have things to tell which anyone with eyes could see and anyone with a brain could figure out by himself ... I should probably stop posting altogether. :lmao:

I never told anyone on here anything beyond what he could have figured out by himself ;) Honestly!



stewart.a please ignore the silly fighting in your thread ... it just happens sometimes ;)

troll....
 

NateS

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yeah well my opinion is grass is green. ground breaking. the guy already knows somethings wrong with his pictures, otherwise he wouldnt be asking for help. oh yeah i forgot youre the leader of the censoring committee around here. im so sorry ive offended your superior intellect :hail:

All he did was state what was wrong (i.e. overexposed). Obviously the OP didn't know this or he wouldn't have asked. Hey....at least Alex B isn't telling him to use a flash on a scenery that's miles away with a picture that is already overexposed.
 

dEARlEADER

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All he did was state what was wrong (i.e. overexposed). Obviously the OP didn't know this or he wouldn't have asked. Hey....at least Alex B isn't telling him to use a flash on a scenery that's miles away with a picture that is already overexposed.

Nate... some things have happened since you've been over at the Nikon Cafe... Alex B. is notorious for whitty trolling... leaving a trail of disaster behind him.... just look at this thread.....
 

NateS

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Nate... some things have happened since you've been over at the Nikon Cafe... Alex B. is notorious for whitty trolling... leaving a trail of disaster behind him.... just look at this thread.....

Ah, I had no idea.
 

NateS

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I SEE THE PROBLEM!! It's in your Exif data.

You are shooting in full manual mode and clearly don't understand how to read the camera's meter. Put it in Aperture Priority at around F8-F12 and I'd be willing to bet that all of your problems are solved.
 
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stewart.a

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I SEE THE PROBLEM!! It's in your Exif data.

You are shooting in full manual mode and clearly don't understand how to read the camera's meter. Put it in Aperture Priority at around F8-F12 and I'd be willing to bet that all of your problems are solved.

Yes, you are 100% correct.

Thanks for the help. Have tryed the suggestions and it is much better. I am still getting my head around how everything can be used the best. Will try some in Ap Priority.

A few of the replies are really giving me a better insight into how to handle lighting conditions. Thanks for that. Can understand a lot more haze around the ocean.

Dusk shot turned out ok.

DSC02534.jpg


Is there much point of me even playing with full manual at the moment (own level of knowledge)?

What would be the best to being out more 'crispness' in the greenery? Some shots seem good like the one below.

DSC02528.jpg


Thanks,

Stew
 

NateS

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Honestly, there are few circumstances that I believe full manual is needed.....the largest being when using flash. Using a flash, full manual will let you control the balance of ambient light by changing the shutter speed. Other times may be on night shots when you want to control the lightness of the night scene.

For the most part though, Aperture priority is best (in my opinion) and there are some times when shutter priority is better.
 

Alex_B

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Is there much point of me even playing with full manual at the moment (own level of knowledge)?

Sure, but you have to pay attention to your light meter in the camera. Play with aperture and shutterspeed until the lightmeter indicates an OK exposure. You can of course deviate from that suggested exposure (the camera does not know, how exactly you want the scene exposed).

What would be the best to being out more 'crispness' in the greenery? Some shots seem good like the one below.
Sometimes lack of crispness in the green stems from reflections from the leafs' surface which prevent a saturated green. Sometimes a polarizer can help here.
 

NateS

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Stew - Might I also add that it would be wise to study up about aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and how they all work together and the purpose/causes of each. A good book is "Understanding Exposure". Though plenty of information can be found in forums and tutorials as well.

Once you learn those basics, then you can shoot in full manual watching your light meter and you'll actually understand what the changes are doing and why those things change the picture.


Here.......I found you a link with a bunch of tutorials to explain all the above plus composition and much more.

http://photography.about.com/od/takingpictures/u/BasicsPath.htm#s1


.
 

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