I briefly discussed my Sigma 100-300 f/4 in this thread a few days ago here on TPF
http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...s-reviews/201007-sigma-zoom-v-canon-zoom.html I will say this about the Sigma--it balances well on a bigger Nikon and although it is rather bulky compared to say an 80-400 Nikon, it "feels light" in action....it just feels and swings and points like it's not even there when it's on the front of a D1 or D2 weight camera...is not nose-heavy and arm-tiring. Igt's a nice length for baseball and track and field and outdoor portraiture. Having the 100mm from 200 to 300mm allows you a lot of background control and a lot of framing options, all with f/4 speed. It's good at f/4.5 and f/5.6 apertures. It is not as sharp as a 300mm prime lens at 300, but it's quite good. It's super-handy, but mine doesn't focus as reliably as I would like, but mine is old. Maybe it need to be re-chipped. I bought it used for $550 in 2004 as I recall.
I would generally agree with Dwig's comments about extension tube use; you can usually get by on 3-D objects by adding an extension tube, especially on APS-C d-slrs, since the majority of the image is made using only the very central part of the lens's image circle, and the edges are simply not imaged by the sensor. On flat, 3-D subjects where edge-to-edge sharpness is paramount, using an extension tube on a general-purpose,ordinary lens is sometimes going to produce bad images--but using a tube on a flat-field macro lens, here will probably be no problems at all. This varies from lens design to lens design; some lenses have a lot of field curvature, and others do not.
Some lenses are not very good with telephoto converters, but are good with extension tubes, like Nikon's old 300mm f/4.5 ED-IF, which John Shaw used to do many,many of the beautiful close-up nature shots in his numerous guidebooks. tHis old manual focus era lens is pretty decent with extension tubes.