Lens Hood Question

TheEVP · Jun 12, 2013

I've noticed that when I use the camera's built in pop-up flash and the lens hood, that I get a darkened semi-circle at the bottom-center of the picture. I'm assuming this is shadow from the upper part of the lens hood. Is there anyway to change this as I don't have a regular flash for the camera yet (saving to buy a good one)? Should I even use the lens hood when shooting indoors?

480sparky · Jun 12, 2013

Don't use the hood when using the pop-up flash. :er:

baturn · Jun 12, 2013

absolutely^. like me, he rarely misses the obvious :lol:

table1349 · Jun 12, 2013

Even better, don't use the pop up flash. They are weak and poorly situated on the camera, ie red eye.

TheEVP · Jun 12, 2013

Okay....I left myself open on that one.

TheEVP · Jun 12, 2013

Well, I'm shooting indoors and like I said, I don't have the scratch right now for a good flash. But I have the red-eye reduction turned on.

TCampbell · Jun 12, 2013

Your image quality may improve by leaps and bounds by NOT using the pop-up flash (pro bodies don't even have a pop-up flash... it's external flash or nothing.)

I will use a pop-up flash in limited circumstances for "fill" lighting in outdoor sun shooting situations ONLY (and only for close subjects because a pop-up flash is good for maybe 10'.)

Your profile says you have a Sony a65.

Tragically, Sony uses a proprietary hot-shoe design rather than the industry standard sized used by everyone else. You could buy a Sony flash. There are some 3rd party flashes that have a Sony foot on them (choices will be a bit limited). BUT... you can also buy a std. flash shoe to Sony adapter (see: PC Sync & Hot Shoe Adapters | B&H Photo Video ) Being able to use any flash with a standard shoe will open up your choices a bit.

If you can get the flash mounted up on the shoe, or flash bracket, or even off-camera, then you can get much better lighting. Not only will you get more distance between lens and light, you can also bounce the light or use any number of light modifiers.

Kolia · Jun 13, 2013

The proprietary hot shoe isn't that much of an issue. Buy a good flash unit and it will have the auto lock shoe.

Anyway, take the hood off if necessary.

Tailgunner · Jun 13, 2013

TCampbell said:
Your image quality may improve by leaps and bounds by NOT using the pop-up flash (pro bodies don't even have a pop-up flash... it's external flash or nothing.)

I will use a pop-up flash in limited circumstances for "fill" lighting in outdoor sun shooting situations ONLY (and only for close subjects because a pop-up flash is good for maybe 10'.)

Your profile says you have a Sony a65.

Agreed, you could probably benefit more from better glass like the Sony 16-50mm 2.8 than an external flash. It's amazing how well good glass works in low light conditions.

TheEVP · Jun 14, 2013

TCampbell said:
Your image quality may improve by leaps and bounds by NOT using the pop-up flash (pro bodies don't even have a pop-up flash... it's external flash or nothing.)

I will use a pop-up flash in limited circumstances for "fill" lighting in outdoor sun shooting situations ONLY (and only for close subjects because a pop-up flash is good for maybe 10'.)

Your profile says you have a Sony a65.

Tragically, Sony uses a proprietary hot-shoe design rather than the industry standard sized used by everyone else. You could buy a Sony flash. There are some 3rd party flashes that have a Sony foot on them (choices will be a bit limited). BUT... you can also buy a std. flash shoe to Sony adapter (see: PC Sync & Hot Shoe Adapters | B&H Photo Video ) Being able to use any flash with a standard shoe will open up your choices a bit.

If you can get the flash mounted up on the shoe, or flash bracket, or even off-camera, then you can get much better lighting. Not only will you get more distance between lens and light, you can also bounce the light or use any number of light modifiers.

I try to not use the pop-up flash if I don't have to. But the last couple of times I shot pictures, they were indoor in low-light conditions and I was within 10' of what I was shooting. I know I need an external flash though and will get one eventually. Thanks for the info on the flash shoe adapter. Honestly, I wanted to get a Nikon or Canon but at the time I was working for Sony in their wireless mobile division and the store gave me a discount I couldn't say no to (I think I paid $450 for it). Sony has always been big on using proprietary stuff (m2 / memory stick as opposed to MicroSD, etc.), which is something I hated.

Steve5D · Jun 14, 2013

Tailgunner said:
Agreed, you could probably benefit more from better glass like the Sony 16-50mm 2.8 than an external flash. It's amazing how well good glass works in low light conditions.

The OP has stated that he doesn't have the money for a flash. I'm gonna' go out on a limb and guess that the OP would, therefore, also not have money for that lens.

There are a myriad of options if money wasn't an issue but, clearly, it appears to be.

Given that, there are a couple solutions:

1. Remove the lens hood
2. Zoom in to the subject more (the shadow should only occur at wider focal lengths)
3. Bump your ISO and don't use the flash

Without money to spend on more equipment, those are your options...