Let's talk filters

Matt Glick

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Picking up my D610 w/ 18-35mm tomorrow. I am definitely wanting to pick up a filter.

I shoot landscape and do quite a bit of LE with waterfalls and run into issues when it's sunny out. I have heard that an ND filter will be a good option (like putting sunglasses on the lens). Any suggestions on which to pick up?
I know there's quite a bit out there, from polarizing filters, Neutral density, variable neutral density and graduated neutral density. I have tried to read up on it, learning about the different stops and the difference between each type of filter but you guys provide the best 1st hand info.
I'll be needing a 77mm
Thank you for the assistance.
 
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You'll need just two, really. A VND and a CPL. Buy the best you can afford.

A 10-stop ND is nice, but not really 'required'.
 
If you are shooting a lot of landscapes you may want to consider a Lee Filter type system. While this is an expensive course ... many also consider it the best.
 
If you are doing landscape you may want to read this (square filters) ==> An Introduction to Neutral Density Filters and Why You Need Them for Landscapes Photography Forum

(screw on) ND filter thread ==> ND filters - anyone have various NDs photos Photography Forum

and ==> ND filter systems Photography Forum

I have 77mm B+W filters (vary with which ones) and I have a CPL, ND4, ND8, ND16, ND64 and I forgot what else. I also take pictures of the Sun so I've got some good blockage.

Doing landscape I've come across the need to use a Square Variable ND filter but just use my CPL. It's a costly upgrade to good square filters such as Lee Systems. Such as this ==> Lee Filters FK Foundation kit 4x4 Graduated Holders and Lee FK adapter rings

Also check your budget. Really GOOD filters can cost alot. B+W offers a plethora of expensive to mildly costly filters. There's alot of other brands too, and alot of cheaper brands.

Here's an examle of prices for various NDs ==> B W 77mm ND filters Buy or Learn at Adorama
 
For waterfalls, I really prefer the 10-stop ND

A 10-stop filter might be called an ND 3.0 because in that density system each "0.1" worth of density is 1/3rd of a stop. So a 0.3 is really a 1 stop filter, a 0.6 is a 2 stop filter... and a 3.0 is a 10-stop filter.

But a 10-stop filter might also be called an ND 1000 -- the "1000" is the inverse of the amount of light that it transmits. So 1000 really means it's 1/1000ths (1 photon of light out of every 1000 makes it through). ND 1000 is more accurate an ND 1024, but they round these values for simplicity.

Variable NDs are extremely convenient but they're really two polarizing filters stacked together. Polarizing filters can have a darker and lighter region if used on wide-angle lens (and for landscapes there's good chance you might use a wide angle lens). When you stack two polarizers you would get two of these dark bands. This can cause an "X" shaped dark zone in your image. This only happens when using it on fairly wide angle focal lengths -- normal or telephoto wouldn't have this issue. Fixed (non-variable) ND filters won't have the banding issue.
 
Hi Matt, landscapes are what I like shooting too. You'll want a CPL for increasing sky contrast and reducing glare anyway, B&W MRC ones seem to be really good according to the reviews and though I recently got a Marumi DHG Super 72mm which is half the price but came top of the test on lenstip.com, I've not really had a chance to check it out fully though. Hoya HD CPLs also seem to be pretty good.

For other filters NDs can be really useful. I'm working up to a set of 11 different ones. Which would contain 1, 2 and 3 stop soft grad GNDs, hard grad GNDs and NDs and I'll also add a 6 stop and a 10 stop ND at some point. I don't know what the conditions in your country are though so you may not need as many but I find in Scotland the light can vary so much it can be useful to have a variety of options at your disposal. Brand wise Lee are the popular choice but expensive, personally I'll be investing in some Kood filters as the seem to be the best of the cheap ones.

I'd skip the threaded filters and go straight for a set of 100mm square filters with a filter holder especially if you want to stack them for various effects.
 
I don't know how many times I've seen people buy an ND8 filter thinking they're getting 8 stops of reduction..........
 
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I really need to do more research on what that all means.
 
I've been using the Hoya HD2 Circular Polarizer for a while on my older kit lens. They make this same filter for the 77mm filter thread but it is expensive, around $90 expensive. But in the name of good glass, this isn't bad. I have the 58mm?? For my old kit lens that my father now owns and it can bring out some amazing contrast in landscapes. I'm now thinking of eventually buying a Lee Filter System because I just ordered a Tokina 16-28 which doesn't use a filter thread system.

In the long run, it may be better to buy a Lee system and the filters to go with it because these can potentially fit on other lenses.
 

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