I too have a small, on-flash softbox like the Lumiquest that overread is suggesting,and it gives beautiful lighting on small close-up subjects. It works well just held in your left hand with the flash on a "smart" pigtailed 1-meter wired remote cord (SC 17 or SC 28 or SC29 in Nikon-speak),and it allows you to simulate natural daylight quite well. An off-camera flash connecting cord is what you need for E-TTL light control with a Canon.
I'm not a big fan of ring light flash; it is directly on the lens axis,and so it tends to be very flat-looking,revealing almost no shape or dimension. It's great for its intended purpose of documenting surgeries and flesh wounds, but quite uninspiring as a flash light source for close-up and macro photography; every shot looks the SAME with a ringlight flash.
A good solution is the Lumiquest mini-softbox on a flash bracket or flash "arm" that will allow you to position the flash up above the lens a little bit, and aimed a bit cross-wise to the lens-to-subject axis, which will give shape and dimension. If you use it held and aimed by an assistant at roughly the maximum length of the cord, the small softbox effectively becomes almost a point source,and it simulates natural SUN-light exceedingly well when used in that way on small flowers. When it is positioned 4 to 18 inches from a subject that is small, it functions as a relatively "large" light source, and thus gives a more softlight look.
The light lost to the softbox is actually a GOOD thing in many cases; many flashes are simply too powerful for really close-in working,and the lost light actually tends to make close-in TTL and i-TTL readings better,at least using the Nikon flash system.