Macro Lighting question.

True, but if your focusing close the twinflash is a very versatile option. That said my experiences with it are more with 2:1 to 5:1 magnifications (where it really shines over heavier larger flash units). For 1:1 work I agree that the market is much more easily open to using regular flash units.

5:1... you lucky dog. Come on Nikon, when you gonna respond! :lol: Yea, 5:1 is definitely right on your subject, multiple lights could easily be distinguishable there. Most don't have the luxury (or difficulty) of getting THAT close though!
 
That R1C1 and R1 setup are way over priced IMO and can give flat lighting similar to a ring light.

If its giving you flat lighting you're not using it correctly (assuming you don't want flat lighting). If you keep the flashes on opposite sides and at the same power, then yes you'll get flat lighting. However if you shift them around their rotational mount and if you vary their outputs the variations are very wide indeed with what's possible. You can, at its simplest, vary the powers to have one stronger than the other to cast a shadow; you can also shift them to around a 10am and 1pm positions on the ring mount (00:00 taken as middle top of the circle when mounted) which gives you an "above subject" light source similar to the angle of the sun (And thus an of desired angle for the lighting).

Your lights are still going to be restricted to being directly in front of your lens. If you plan on ever pulling back from your subject, your light is just going to get flatter the further you get. You've got very limited 'XY' positioning of your light and zero 'Z' positioning relative to your lens/sensor. Regardless, I can still get better more diffuse light out of my single speedlight with DIY diffuser, not to mention a whole lot more power at way less money to boot.

Have you seen Orionmystery's macro work? He uses a Canon two flash system very similar to the R1 kit! I have used a speedlight with a variety of diffusers.. and personally I consider the two light system superior. As to whether or not I can produce that with them is debatable, but there are those that can...
 
If its giving you flat lighting you're not using it correctly (assuming you don't want flat lighting). If you keep the flashes on opposite sides and at the same power, then yes you'll get flat lighting. However if you shift them around their rotational mount and if you vary their outputs the variations are very wide indeed with what's possible. You can, at its simplest, vary the powers to have one stronger than the other to cast a shadow; you can also shift them to around a 10am and 1pm positions on the ring mount (00:00 taken as middle top of the circle when mounted) which gives you an "above subject" light source similar to the angle of the sun (And thus an of desired angle for the lighting).

Your lights are still going to be restricted to being directly in front of your lens. If you plan on ever pulling back from your subject, your light is just going to get flatter the further you get. You've got very limited 'XY' positioning of your light and zero 'Z' positioning relative to your lens/sensor. Regardless, I can still get better more diffuse light out of my single speedlight with DIY diffuser, not to mention a whole lot more power at way less money to boot.

Have you seen Orionmystery's macro work? He uses a Canon two flash system very similar to the R1 kit! I have used a speedlight with a variety of diffusers.. and personally I consider the two light system superior. As to whether or not I can produce that with them is debatable, but there are those that can...

I have, his work is really good. As overread stated, at higher magnifications, multiple lights directly in front of the lens can make a noticeable impact. I believe most of Orionsmystery's work is significantly higher than 1:1 which explains the need/usefulness of it.
 
Your lights are still going to be restricted to being directly in front of your lens. If you plan on ever pulling back from your subject, your light is just going to get flatter the further you get. You've got very limited 'XY' positioning of your light and zero 'Z' positioning relative to your lens/sensor. Regardless, I can still get better more diffuse light out of my single speedlight with DIY diffuser, not to mention a whole lot more power at way less money to boot.

Have you seen Orionmystery's macro work? He uses a Canon two flash system very similar to the R1 kit! I have used a speedlight with a variety of diffusers.. and personally I consider the two light system superior. As to whether or not I can produce that with them is debatable, but there are those that can...

I have, his work is really good. As overread stated, at higher magnifications, multiple lights directly in front of the lens can make a noticeable impact. I believe most of Orionsmystery's work is significantly higher than 1:1 which explains the need/usefulness of it.

Yea.. there is that! I will have to see what I can do at 1:1.... be an interesting challenge! :)
 
That R1C1 and R1 setup are way over priced IMO and can give flat lighting similar to a ring light.

If its giving you flat lighting you're not using it correctly (assuming you don't want flat lighting). If you keep the flashes on opposite sides and at the same power, then yes you'll get flat lighting. However if you shift them around their rotational mount and if you vary their outputs the variations are very wide indeed with what's possible. You can, at its simplest, vary the powers to have one stronger than the other to cast a shadow; you can also shift them to around a 10am and 1pm positions on the ring mount (00:00 taken as middle top of the circle when mounted) which gives you an "above subject" light source similar to the angle of the sun (And thus an of desired angle for the lighting).

Your lights are still going to be restricted to being directly in front of your lens. If you plan on ever pulling back from your subject, your light is just going to get flatter the further you get. You've got very limited 'XY' positioning of your light and zero 'Z' positioning relative to your lens/sensor. Regardless, I can still get better more diffuse light out of my single speedlight with DIY diffuser, not to mention a whole lot more power at way less money to boot.

You can take the flashes off of the lens and position them around your subject. They are not restricted to the XY axis around the lens.
 
If its giving you flat lighting you're not using it correctly (assuming you don't want flat lighting). If you keep the flashes on opposite sides and at the same power, then yes you'll get flat lighting. However if you shift them around their rotational mount and if you vary their outputs the variations are very wide indeed with what's possible. You can, at its simplest, vary the powers to have one stronger than the other to cast a shadow; you can also shift them to around a 10am and 1pm positions on the ring mount (00:00 taken as middle top of the circle when mounted) which gives you an "above subject" light source similar to the angle of the sun (And thus an of desired angle for the lighting).

Your lights are still going to be restricted to being directly in front of your lens. If you plan on ever pulling back from your subject, your light is just going to get flatter the further you get. You've got very limited 'XY' positioning of your light and zero 'Z' positioning relative to your lens/sensor. Regardless, I can still get better more diffuse light out of my single speedlight with DIY diffuser, not to mention a whole lot more power at way less money to boot.

You can take the flashes off of the lens and position them around your subject. They are not restricted to the XY axis around the lens.

And now you've defeated the entire point of the kit.
 
Nope - the smaller twinflash heads are still (at least on canon side) more versatile to control than many other smaller flash units (which in my experiences tend to only have limited auto functions and no manual power settings). Plus the bonus over larger flash units is that they are considerably lighter - bigger speedlite flashes can do the same work and if your doing a studio shot are just as easy to work with (plus a bit easier for the wider range of commercial diffusion adaptors); but if your working handheld the smaller flashes are lighter and thus put less strain on the user (esp if they are being held out infront of the lens/camera)
 
I always thought that good light was good light.. I never knew you had to magnify the subject to make the light good! ;) lol!
 
Out of interest how do the nikon small flashes mount to the adaptor? Do they have a regular coldshoe on their base? (or even hotshoe)
 
Out of interest how do the nikon small flashes mount to the adaptor? Do they have a regular coldshoe on their base? (or even hotshoe)

Kind of a strange proprietary clamp.. fits into a slot on the round flash mount.... push the button and it slides around the mount.. let go, it locks! (crappy shot.. but I wasn't going to drag my lightbox out for this! lol)

r11.jpg


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Hmm a shame as it limits their use off of the mount, unless someone makes an adaptor (would be just the sort of thing an ebay company would have in their long lost of adaptors)
 
Hmm a shame as it limits their use off of the mount, unless someone makes an adaptor (would be just the sort of thing an ebay company would have in their long lost of adaptors)

Actually they do provide two of the flash stands with a standard 1/4" adapter on them. So these can easily be mounted to a lightstand, or macro brackets, or whatever. (sorry.. should have mentioned that earlier!)

r14.jpg


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