moving from Full Frame to MicroFourThirds

[chuasam]

I notice a lot of people here (and other photo enthusiasts) rave about FullFrame like it is the holy grail of cameras.

I find myself going the other way.

I have just put an order on an Olympus EM10 III kit with the 30mm f/3.5 macro lenses.
After mucking around for a week, I have found that for the majority of product photography, the micro43 system is superior.

The smaller senor gives me a far greater DOF, I get to use a smaller working space, a lighter rig means a smaller tripod.

The output is typically for web or a small print on a catalog so using my D810 is complete overkill.

 

[PropilotBW]

Nice! I think you’ll like that camera.

 

[chuasam]

i'm trying to figure out what is a good Nikon to MFT adapter.
the Novoflex is very nice but I don't want to pay that much. *LOL*
What is the least expensive one that still lets me control the aperture?

 

[BrentC]

Have you looked at https://www.amazon.ca/Fotodiox-Adapter-Thirds-Olympus-Panasonic/dp/B003G49V70

 

[chuasam]

Have you looked at https://www.amazon.ca/Fotodiox-Adapter-Thirds-Olympus-Panasonic/dp/B003G49V70

How does it compare to the gobe adapters?

 

[BrentC]

Have you looked at https://www.amazon.ca/Fotodiox-Adapter-Thirds-Olympus-Panasonic/dp/B003G49V70

How does it compare to the gobe adapters?

I have no idea, never used adapters except for FourThirds to M43. Going by reviews it looks like the Fotodiox is mechanically looser than the Novoflex. A lot of people complaining about that. German vs Chinese. But it is a huge price gap, you may get lucky on the fotodiox or not. I don't see much about Gobe.
These adapter will not allow AF or aperture control from the camera if your all right with that. Metabones is probably the best, it allows camera control and you get an extra stop in aperture, they are fantastic. But the price. I guess it depends how much you like your Nikon lenses. The $700 may be worth it.

 

[ac12]

Actually, I feel that each (m4/3, DX and FX) has its purpose.
I like my D7200 for sports and general use.
But there have been many times that I want a smaller/lighter camera, for casual family parties or traveling where I am weight/space restricted, and I don't want to use the P&S.
And that is where a "tweener" like a Micro 4/3 or Olympus EM10-Mk2/Mk3 or Sony A6000 or Nikon D3400 would work.

 

[Frank F.]

I notice a lot of people here (and other photo enthusiasts) rave about FullFrame like it is the holy grail of cameras.
I find myself going the other way.
I have just put an order on an Olympus EM10 III kit with the 30mm f/3.5 macro lenses.
After mucking around for a week, I have found that for the majority of product photography, the micro43 system is superior.
The smaller senor gives me a far greater DOF, I get to use a smaller working space, a lighter rig means a smaller tripod.
The output is typically for web or a small print on a catalog so using my D810 is complete overkill.

At base ISO all cats are grey, only the D850 can show color in a consistency never seen before. She smokes medium format easily.

 

[chuasam]

I notice a lot of people here (and other photo enthusiasts) rave about FullFrame like it is the holy grail of cameras.
I find myself going the other way.
I have just put an order on an Olympus EM10 III kit with the 30mm f/3.5 macro lenses.
After mucking around for a week, I have found that for the majority of product photography, the micro43 system is superior.
The smaller senor gives me a far greater DOF, I get to use a smaller working space, a lighter rig means a smaller tripod.
The output is typically for web or a small print on a catalog so using my D810 is complete overkill.

At base ISO all cats are grey, only the D850 can show color in a consistency never seen before. She smokes medium format easily.

Oh I’ll be getting that in April/May

 

[TCampbell]

The key is that it meets your needs. Nothing is "better" / "worse", etc. it's really just more-fitting or less-fitting to a particular task.

A four-thirds sensor has a crop factor of roughly 2.0 ... meaning that if you move the camera to get equivalent framing (vs a full-frame sensor), then you'll have backed the camera away from the subject far enough that the DoF you get will be as if you used the full-frame camera, but were shooting 2 stops higher. E.g. if you shoot with f/4 on a four-thirds camera but position the camera with the same focal length lens to get the equivalent framing to a full-frame camera, the DoF you would get would be the equivalent of shooting at f/8 with the full-frame camera.

 

[Frank F.]

The key is that it meets your needs. Nothing is "better" / "worse", etc. it's really just more-fitting or less-fitting to a particular task.

A four-thirds sensor has a crop factor of roughly 2.0 ... meaning that if you move the camera to get equivalent framing (vs a full-frame sensor), then you'll have backed the camera away from the subject far enough that the DoF you get will be as if you used the full-frame camera, but were shooting 2 stops higher. E.g. if you shoot with f/4 on a four-thirds camera but position the camera with the same focal length lens to get the equivalent framing to a full-frame camera, the DoF you would get would be the equivalent of shooting at f/8 with the full-frame camera.

For product photography I use my sinar p2 anyway. I extend DOF by using the Scheimpflug principle without compromising resolution by diffraction too much, stitching on the back standart to extend field of view, using a Schneider Apo Digitar as the lens outresolving even the D850 that I use as my digital back

 

[chuasam]

The key is that it meets your needs. Nothing is "better" / "worse", etc. it's really just more-fitting or less-fitting to a particular task.

A four-thirds sensor has a crop factor of roughly 2.0 ... meaning that if you move the camera to get equivalent framing (vs a full-frame sensor), then you'll have backed the camera away from the subject far enough that the DoF you get will be as if you used the full-frame camera, but were shooting 2 stops higher. E.g. if you shoot with f/4 on a four-thirds camera but position the camera with the same focal length lens to get the equivalent framing to a full-frame camera, the DoF you would get would be the equivalent of shooting at f/8 with the full-frame camera.

For product photography I use my sinar p2 anyway. I extend DOF by using the Scheimpflug principle without compromising resolution by diffraction too much, stitching on the back standart to extend field of view, using a Schneider Apo Digitar as the lens outresolving even the D850 that I use as my digital back

complete overkill and unnecessary when the output is for web and catalogs.
This is simple high volume product photography not fine art work.

 

[Frank F.]

The key is that it meets your needs. Nothing is "better" / "worse", etc. it's really just more-fitting or less-fitting to a particular task.

A four-thirds sensor has a crop factor of roughly 2.0 ... meaning that if you move the camera to get equivalent framing (vs a full-frame sensor), then you'll have backed the camera away from the subject far enough that the DoF you get will be as if you used the full-frame camera, but were shooting 2 stops higher. E.g. if you shoot with f/4 on a four-thirds camera but position the camera with the same focal length lens to get the equivalent framing to a full-frame camera, the DoF you would get would be the equivalent of shooting at f/8 with the full-frame camera.

For product photography I use my sinar p2 anyway. I extend DOF by using the Scheimpflug principle without compromising resolution by diffraction too much, stitching on the back standart to extend field of view, using a Schneider Apo Digitar as the lens outresolving even the D850 that I use as my digital back

complete overkill and unnecessary when the output is for web and catalogs.
This is simple high volume product photography not fine art work.

As I shoot food (packshots & arranged) I consider it the standard tool.

For volume production I do of course not stitch.

Results are much more subtle with a 3D-touch than straight shots.

Look at this demo:

I can also post some (volume) pack shots and fine men's shirts, but I will need time to extract them from the archive disk... after one million shots the extraction needs up to 10 minutes

 

[Frank F.]

best setup for product photography (esp food) currently available:

• Nikon D850 (beats "medium format" hands down ... I am not on a budget),
• Schneider APO Digitar N°48 5.6/120mm (outresolves 100 Megapixels),
• Sinar p2 (absolutely intuitive operation),
• some sinar p-slr mockoff from Hongkong (350€ instead of 1500€ and it works as good as or better),
• Linhof 3333 tripod,
• Linhof "3D Neiger" head,
• Kompendium is the front standart of my sinar f2

PS: yes, you need good light and good light can be very expensive or you have to really know what you are doing.

This is not cheap, but budget anyway:

Yes, the 1.8/85G shows a lot of CA wide open. So what? This is an illustration and I frankly do not give a f***. Savour the information or stick it up you a**. BTW: cool shot.

 

[chuasam]

better is the enemy of the good
Client just wants 300 shots of pens for their ecommerce site.
or 200 pieces of makeup for ecommerce
time is of the essence.
wants the whole lot finished in an afternoon.

Your set up is good, mine is faster.
Client wants more images in less time.