Hey at 3am I'm in bed darn it (well at least I should be...) I can't patrol macro 24/7
As for ideas here are a few:
1) Extension tubes (or bellows for adaptable length on the fly) - these give you more magnification at the cost of focusing distance and the loss of infinity focusing. Essentially on shorter focal length lenses it caps you to macro work only. On existing macro lenses it increases the magnification over 1:1 to the rough math of:
Length of extension tubes in mm - divided by - focal length of the lens = magnification:1
Note for macro lenses the magnification is added to the 1:1 ratio the macro lens already achieves (if, of course, the lens is set to its closest focus - note also that as most modern macro lenses shorten their focal length as they get to 1:1 - the actual magnification gained can be a bit more than the rough maths suggests).
2) Close up lens attachments/diopters/close up filters (name shifts and changes, the first is strictly speaking the correct name). These are examples like the Canon 500D or the Raynox DCR 250 and are attachments which fit to the end of the lens like a filter; they are then acting like extension tubes, reducing your min focusing distance and removing infinity focus.
However, whilst extension tubes give more magnification on shorter focal length lenses, the close up attachments give more magnification on longer focal length lenses (I don't know the math however).
Note: These often get a slating because they are "adding glass" to the setup and also because many people often get them in the cheap kits on offer - these are nearly always cheap single element setups which are poor quality; working but doing it poorly. The quality options noted above from Canon and Raynox are very high quality and easily able to stand up to extension tubes or even options like the Canon MPE 65mm macro.
Note2: for a 90mm/100mm macro lens you are kind of half way between the close up lenses and extension tubes being the best option. Note you can get much more powerful close up lenses (diopter rating states its power, the larger the more magnification) and I personally prefer them for being faster to slip on and off a lens.
3) Reverse mounting lenses - using a reversing ring on the front of your lens to allow you to put another infront of it to get magnification (again losing infinity focusing). The rough maths for this is:
Focal length of the lens mounted on the camera body - divided by - focal length of the lens being reversed on the front = magnification : 1
So clearly a short focal length like a 28mm or 35mm can give quite a bit of magnification (28mm would be around just over 3:1 on a 90mm).
4) Teleconverters - these work simply by magnifying the image by the same magnification factor as the teleconverter is - so 1.4:1 for a 1.4TC and 2:1 for a 2*TC. The big bonus for these is that they don't take away your infinity focus nor change your working distance, so you can retain all your normal operating practice, but with increased magnification (you can also use them with options like the close up lenses to get more magnification). Note that I, personally, find that working at 2:1 or greater its a lot easier to actually have less working distance sometimes (esp when working handheld) since it lets you rest the end of the lens on surfaces (ie your hand) on more stable surfaces closer to the subject, rather than trying to freehold when further away.
Personally I'd go for the options like the Canon 500D or the Raynox DCR 250 as a starting point and then adding teleconverters in for a bit more magnification (or looking at one of the higher powered Raynox options like the MSN505) - getting yourself to work at around 3:1 before deciding to go for something exclusive like the MPE 65mm macro
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